Brake lights not working
- Thread starter Topless65
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Pbum5
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BarnStang
Founding Member
The circuit breaker is the headlight switch. The brake lights run through the turn signal switch. Make sure you have 12V to one side of the plug on the brake light switch on the brake pedel. SHould be there all the time-key off or on or acc. Jumper the plug and see if you have brake lights. If you do, then the problem is with the switch. When you press the brake pedel, the switch is designed to "give" a little so the brake rod presses back on it and presses the little switch. If you recently replaced the switch, it could be too tight. Seen this before. And not able to "give" a bit to depress the switch. If you do not have brake lights, then there is a problem with the 12V coming from the turn sig switch. Get a testlight and make sure that you really do not have 12V on one side of that plug. Before you jump on the turn sig switch, make sure you are getting 12V from the headlight switch to power all that stuff. I can add some more tomorrow when I can get the wiring diagram at the shop. Let us know how you make out with that.
BarnStang
Founding Member
You defintely have 12V at the plug?
And you jumper the plug and no brake lights.
Check the steering column connector and the connectors at the drivers kick panel.
Assuming the bulbs are good. Also, if the turn signal is on and not flashing, that side brake light will not come on. That will drive you crazy if you forget...
Down in Ocean City for the show. I'll check some diagrams Monday. Sorry, today got pretty busy. THere should be a few people on here that has a diagram handy and can give you some wire colors and more detail faster than I can right now.
And you jumper the plug and no brake lights.
Check the steering column connector and the connectors at the drivers kick panel.
Assuming the bulbs are good. Also, if the turn signal is on and not flashing, that side brake light will not come on. That will drive you crazy if you forget...
Down in Ocean City for the show. I'll check some diagrams Monday. Sorry, today got pretty busy. THere should be a few people on here that has a diagram handy and can give you some wire colors and more detail faster than I can right now.
Tim65GT
Active Member
the power gets picked up at the Headlight Switch, then to the brake kight switch then to the Signal switch.
If the Turn signals work, and the brake switch has power and is jumpered, it must be the circuit to the signal switch or the switch its self.
Check the green and green/red wire at the turn signal switch connector under the column for power, if good, then the steering wheel has to come off.
If the Turn signals work, and the brake switch has power and is jumpered, it must be the circuit to the signal switch or the switch its self.
Check the green and green/red wire at the turn signal switch connector under the column for power, if good, then the steering wheel has to come off.
Ok Green wire has power when you step on the brake so the brake light switch is working and the green wire has power all the way up to the turn signal mechanism and is not distributing it to the green w/red or the orange w/green. Now that I have isolated the problem how do you replace the switch? The wires are pre connected at the switch and the connector at the lower column won't fit through the hole?
BarnStang
Founding Member
Pull the steering wheel and take a look. Does the turn sig lever feel sloppy? Or does it have a nice crisp snap to it?
The turn sig sw can be disconnected at the bottom of the steering column and then pulled up through the top. THe new one will come with the harness as a complete assembly. Slide the new one in and reassemble. Note: MARK THE STEERING WHEEL BEFORE YOU PULL IT! So you get it back on straight.
If the turn sig lever snaps ok, I still feel it's not the switch, but they do go bad and still feel ok. It's possible. The turn sig sw is not extreamly expensive, but they can be pricy. Just make sure thats it. Cause you don't want to buy the thing and find a broken wire. Most electrical items are non-returnable. Let us know what you find next. Oh, you can pull the turn sig sw out and test it. ANd a visual inspection can reveal that the contacts came loose or something. THen you know it's failed.
I reread your last post. If the turn signals work, then the connector is good and your lines to the tail lights are good. It's probably the switch.
The turn sig sw can be disconnected at the bottom of the steering column and then pulled up through the top. THe new one will come with the harness as a complete assembly. Slide the new one in and reassemble. Note: MARK THE STEERING WHEEL BEFORE YOU PULL IT! So you get it back on straight.
If the turn sig lever snaps ok, I still feel it's not the switch, but they do go bad and still feel ok. It's possible. The turn sig sw is not extreamly expensive, but they can be pricy. Just make sure thats it. Cause you don't want to buy the thing and find a broken wire. Most electrical items are non-returnable. Let us know what you find next. Oh, you can pull the turn sig sw out and test it. ANd a visual inspection can reveal that the contacts came loose or something. THen you know it's failed.
I reread your last post. If the turn signals work, then the connector is good and your lines to the tail lights are good. It's probably the switch.
BarnStang
Founding Member
Oh, the 65 harness may not slide up through the steering column. You may need to extract the pins from the lower connecter or cut off and reattach it to the new one.
Do the two spring loaded connetors that slide inside the steering wheel only relate to the horn? I will have to extract the pins at the connector if I replace the swithch. I looked at a wiring diagram last night and there are some other wires that connect into the rear system, my question is, the green wire that goes up to the turn signal switch when you step on the brake you get power to that green wire but how does it transfer it to the rear wires is there a sliding contact between the cam and the rest of the assembly? it seems so basic but I can't see where it has failed (until I take it apart) on the switch except that it will not transfer power past the green wire.
Tim65GT
Active Member
Yes
It has two sets of sliding contacts that make/break the current from the signal flasher or brake switch. Here's a diagram that may help explain:
(the wire colors are not all correct.)
jikelly
Dirt-Old 20+Year Member
jikelly
Dirt-Old 20+Year Member
Mine felt solid too, but the contacts inside were worn enough to no longer make continuous contact. I took it apart and "adjusted" the clearances to get it working again. They sell a cam repair kit at the autoparts stores that you might take a look at. I didn't realize that the brake lights ran through the cam until you posted about your problem though.
BarnStang
Founding Member
Tim65GT, nice grahic!
I haven't replaced the cams. If it's inexpensive, you could give it a try. In the long run, you may be better off with a new switch. It's not that hard to replace, even if you have to cut and splice the connector back on at the bottom. I am interested to know if anyone else has replaced the cams or otherwise repaired the switch and how successful the repair was.
I haven't replaced the cams. If it's inexpensive, you could give it a try. In the long run, you may be better off with a new switch. It's not that hard to replace, even if you have to cut and splice the connector back on at the bottom. I am interested to know if anyone else has replaced the cams or otherwise repaired the switch and how successful the repair was.
Wow does this sound familiar.
Just replace it.
It's easy.
I fought for years with an issue like this. mine shorted at one time, and melted a little of the turn signal system. I glued, did this, did that, etc forever.
Then I spent the $40 for a whole unit.
real easy- just take a pict/draw a pict of it before you start. Get a very small screw driver/punch and take out the leads from the plastic blocks. don't cut the wires! tape all the wires together, and attach a string to it, pull it through the steering column. tape the wires of the new one, and attach to the string, and pull them back down the column, then push all the connectors back into the plastic connector blocks. done.
if there is a space issue, tape 4 wires together, then tape 4 more on to the bundle an inch below, and so on, so you won't have 1/2" diameter of wires to pull through the small-ish holes.
I was really worried about doing it for years, then I had to do it. it really only took me 30 minutes.... for all those years of unreliable brake lights...
Just do it dude.
Just replace it.
It's easy.
I fought for years with an issue like this. mine shorted at one time, and melted a little of the turn signal system. I glued, did this, did that, etc forever.
Then I spent the $40 for a whole unit.
real easy- just take a pict/draw a pict of it before you start. Get a very small screw driver/punch and take out the leads from the plastic blocks. don't cut the wires! tape all the wires together, and attach a string to it, pull it through the steering column. tape the wires of the new one, and attach to the string, and pull them back down the column, then push all the connectors back into the plastic connector blocks. done.
if there is a space issue, tape 4 wires together, then tape 4 more on to the bundle an inch below, and so on, so you won't have 1/2" diameter of wires to pull through the small-ish holes.
I was really worried about doing it for years, then I had to do it. it really only took me 30 minutes.... for all those years of unreliable brake lights...
Just do it dude.
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