Brief question about mechanical fuel pump install

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Under the eccentric. It's possible to get that wrong (over the eccentric) It's best to test fit it to see if the crank needs to be rolled over to get the eccentric to where the pump and arm slides in without having to push rhe pump down to get the bolts started.
 
Under the eccentric. It's possible to get that wrong (over the eccentric) It's best to test fit it to see if the crank needs to be rolled over to get the eccentric to where the pump and arm slides in without having to push rhe pump down to get the bolts started.

I may have done just that during the initial install. I think I had some bad information from another guy. I can't remember specifically if I put it above or below but when I went to start it for the base timing I had 0 fuel pressure. Not even a drop in the line. So I think that may be the problem..
 
Ok I took the fuel pump out and it was installed correctly. Now I have a 2 piece fuel pump eccentric, is the outside ring supposed to move around freely? At first I thought no and that was the problem but now I'm thining yes the outside ring is supposed to move around freely. Can someone clarify so I don't rip the front of the motor off only to realize I didn't need to.

Thanks again.
 
yes the outer ring is supposed to move around freely. When i remember correctly i read here on the forum that this prevents erosion on the excenter and the lever arm?!
Fact is, i had the same situation on mine and an old car mechanic told me the loose outer ring is correct.

Hope that helped,
greets Mario
 
Thinking about your above post you tried to start your car without fuel in the line from the pump to the carb. And it didnt worked...
Dont know if that helps to solve your problem but here is what happenend to me after installing the fuel pump.
Situation:
*plumped on the fuel pump, fuel is coming from the tank line.
*carb bowls are empty, (i cleaned it...)
*fuel line from carb to pump empty

Tried to start the car, no fuel is coming to the carb. After several tries to solve the problem, this was the jackpot:
The starting rpm was too low that the fuel pump delivers fuel to the carb.
Solution: i filled the bowls with fuel so that the car runs for some seconds on higher rpm`s and voila the fuel pump worked correctly and brings fuel. Since then, no problem with starting the car.

greet Mario
 
Thanks for the tips, I filled the fuel bowls and am just waiting to get it started to see if fuel is being pumped.

However I have a new problem. I don't appear to be getting spark at the plugs. I have a new MSD ignition system (6AL, distributor, and coil). I checked for spark at the coil following MSD guidelines: Pulled the coil lead off the distributor, placed it 1/2" from ground, disconnected the magnetic pickup line, put the key to "on", shorted the magnetic pickup wires and got a spark off the coil lead. Good healthy spark.

I tried pulling a plug, and setting it near a ground to see if I had spark but I got zilch. Anyone have some advice?
 
Maybe I'm missing something but how do you go about firmly grounding the plug? I've always just pulled plugs to check spark by hooking them up to the plug wire and setting them within the vicinity of a chassis ground and the spark arcs to the ground. Does the tip of the plug need to be touching the ground?
 
I just went and investigated with a multimeter. Right now I've got about 11.8 volts across the battery. The switched power 12V lead for the MSD is reading about 11.6 volts right before the MSD. Voltage drops dramatically to about 1-3 volts upon startup. Could there be a problem here?
 
Maybe I'm missing something but how do you go about firmly grounding the plug? I've always just pulled plugs to check spark by hooking them up to the plug wire and setting them within the vicinity of a chassis ground and the spark arcs to the ground. Does the tip of the plug need to be touching the ground?

Get a long handled screw driver and wear thick rubber gloves to hold the plug tight against the block to check for a spark at the plug gap.