Burned out the stock clutch today

[HEAVYGT]

Well it was a nice day in Chicago, sunny near 40 so i took my father in law to be for a spin...tcs switched to off and let her rip from about a 3500 rpm start...wheels smoked for about 100 feet and then the clutch was gone!

I knew the stock one wouldn't last with near 500 horsepower at the wheels. My question is, what do you guys recommend for a good replacement so I don't have to go through this mess again!

Merry Christmas...bah humbug!

 

[stangdude2000]

I think most people on here would recommend Fidanza. While you are at it, you should thrown on an aluminum flywheel. Fidanza makes them too...

 

[kooldawg6]

Sorry to hear, but your stocker literally went up in smoke...what a way to go

 

[Mark25]

Who says that burnouts don't cause powertrain problems...you never know when a burnout will be the one that fries your clutch...ouch!

 

[Khyron]

Whoah! Sorry to hear about the stock clutch going up in smoke. I've noticed mine slipping a bit since adding the SC as well. I've already decided I will be going with the Spec Stage 2 Clutch & Aluminum Flywheel from Brenspeed when my stocker finally calls it quits. Here is a link:

http://www.brenspeed.com/mustang_2005/clutchparts.html

Hope this helps!

 

[HEAVYGT]

Whoah! Sorry to hear about the stock clutch going up in smoke. I've noticed mine slipping a bit since adding the SC as well. I've already decided I will be going with the Spec Stage 2 Clutch & Aluminum Flywheel from Brenspeed when my stocker finally calls it quits. Here is a link:

http://www.brenspeed.com/mustang_2005/clutchparts.html

Hope this helps!

I am leaning toward the SPEC as well but I am looking at the "Stage 2+" kit with the steel flywheel.

 

[walter]

I recommend against fidanza and spec.

Fidanza flywheels are basically made from aluminium cans that if you torque just half a foot pounds more then they call for they strip the threads off as if they were made of warm butter (personal experience). Spec clutches on the other hand have a tendecy to explode for no reason (plenty of documented cases).

I honestly would look somewhere else for replacements.

 

[HEAVYGT]

I recommend against fidanza and spec.

Fidanza flywheels are basically made from aluminium cans that if you torque just half a foot pounds more then they call for they strip the threads off as if they were made of warm butter (personal experience). Spec clutches on the other hand have a tendecy to explode for no reason (plenty of documented cases).

I honestly would look somewhere else for replacements.

From what I have been reading....everyone has their own horror stories...stay away from SPEC, stay away from Centerforce, stay away from Fidanza....or just the opposite...SPECS are great, Centerforce are Great, Fidanza are great!

I know the guys at Brenspeed recommend the SPEC stage 2 as they run it on their test car. And the guys at Kenne Bell run the Centerforce DFX on their car and both companies have high praise for the products.

So whatever I choose, there will always be people who disagree with my choice. Just the nature of the beast...thus the creation of message boards on forums like this.

 

[walter]

Absolutely Heavy you're right forums are meant for the exchange of ideas and experiences. That is what makes a community. I'm just saying that as far as the two products are concerned one you have to be SUPER careful not to damage it during install and the other has a known history of failure (especially in high HP application and/or dual material deisgn) which can mean serious injury.

It would be awfully irresponsible on my part to not let someone know this information.

 

[tom281]

Good thread here guys, with lots of good opinions.


I've been looking at clutches and flywheels for a while now, just planning ahead. I'll probably end up going with a Spec clutch. Even though I've heard good and bad about these, I've also heard good and bad about most other brands too- I think alot of it depends on the install and setup.

I am not sure though however on which flywheel to go with- whether to go with aluminum or steel. Both have their pros & cons and I'm beginning to think that for my kind of driving (mostly street with an occasional trip to the track) that I'll stay with steel.

 

[Gene K]

My question is, what do you guys recommend for a good replacement so I don't have to go through this mess again!

Ram Dual Disc, it even comes with the aluminum flywheel.

Of course it aint cheap either.

 

[HEAVYGT]

Ram Dual Disc, it even comes with the aluminum flywheel.

Of course it aint cheap either.

Ya, I think $1400.00 is a little to much for clutch and flywheel...even in my book.

 

[gt00]

This was a Q&A on the Hayes web site. FYI

Q) A friend tells me I should put an aluminum flywheel into my car. Is this a good idea?
A) Usually not. A flywheel stores inertia and greatly affects how the car will launch. A lighter flywheel won't store as much energy and won't hit the tires as hard. This can hurt sixty foot times and cause a loss of power between shifts as it won't store as much energy. A medium or heavy street car on street tires and streetable gears will benefit much more from a thirty, forty, or even fifty pound flywheel (depending on the car's horsepower, weight, and gear/tire combination). A heavier flywheel will "hit" the tires harder. An aluminum flywheel is best suited for use in a lightweight very high horsepower car with a "slipper" or multi-disc type clutch, or a circle track car for faster downshifting. This is one case where lighter aluminum is usually not better.

 

[DarkFireGT]

Holy thread resurrection.

 

[walter]

My thoughts exactly.

 

[klaw]

Holy thread resurrection.

Perfect timing for me though. I have the Whipple HO installed and still running on the stock drivetrain. I know that my clutch is only a matter of time. So HEAVYGT, what did you go with and how's it working out?

Any new thoughts/ideas floating around? What are y'all thinking about drive shaft upgrades, diff girdles etc?

 

[walter]

This was a Q&A on the Hayes web site. FYI

Q) A friend tells me I should put an aluminum flywheel into my car. Is this a good idea?
A) Usually not. A flywheel stores inertia and greatly affects how the car will launch. A lighter flywheel won't store as much energy and won't hit the tires as hard. This can hurt sixty foot times and cause a loss of power between shifts as it won't store as much energy. A medium or heavy street car on street tires and streetable gears will benefit much more from a thirty, forty, or even fifty pound flywheel (depending on the car's horsepower, weight, and gear/tire combination). A heavier flywheel will "hit" the tires harder. An aluminum flywheel is best suited for use in a lightweight very high horsepower car with a "slipper" or multi-disc type clutch, or a circle track car for faster downshifting. This is one case where lighter aluminum is usually not better.

I've mentioned on another thread that the Mustang now has a feature which blips the throttle slightly when the clutch is pressed to help with shifting. If you change to a lighter flywheel it'll probably keep the revs from dropping. Also downshifting will be easier because revmatching will now be a matter of blipping (not hammering) the throttle. I had a 240sx with a stock 27lb flywheel which felt like a boat anchor for that 2.4L engine it had. I ditched it for a 15lb unit and the car became more responsive and intuitive to drive when revmatching was needed. Also drifting the car was easier because you could kick the clutch and wind the engine (and thus the wheels) more easily how you wanted it. It was all a matter of getting used to the peppy and direct feel the setup had.

I can't wait to see what the car will be like with all that rotational mass trimmed off.

 

[metroplex]

The throttle blip doesn't always occur and from my observation it is just a byproduct of suddenly removing the load from an accelerating engine.

FYI, the stock clutch is supposed to be made by Valeo.

 

[anthony05gt]

I've used this set up on several cars and it's a great combo with high hp applications:

Centerforce or Fidanza aluminum flywheel.
Centerforce DFX disc and plate
McLeod adjustable release brg (Ram also makes one I installed yesterday, cheaper)
Sand blast the pressure plate disc surface and the same on the flywheel for under 100 mile break in. If you are re-using the original flywheel have it resurfaced, then sand blast it.

I've been running this set up since November trouble free. I'm also using an MGW shifter and Prothane motor mounts. Speed shifts are clean and quick.

I really wouldn't consider an aftermarket clutch without an adjustable release brg/slave. Stay away from a Centerforce Dual Friction model disc at that hp level. They seem to hold up to about 400 rwhp...that's it.

 

[xtweakerx]

so what clutch setup did heavy go with?

So what do u guys recommand steel or alum flywheels for a Street/Strip car that should be in the 12's this year on drag radials?

Planning for the future..