inhave an 87 mustang gt, i have only a cold air intake and an entire exhaust system on it and the other day i went to do a burnout but it started to do it then the car wouldn't even go above 3,000 rpms and it stopped spinning like it doesn't have enough power to keep spinning. Its very strange this car should be able to do it no problem at all. I checked the tps sensor and i got .94 volts close enough to the desired voltage. I need help on any suggestions about why this car wont light them up.
Burnout Is Limited
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AOD car? 5-spd? Have you run the engine codes?
TPS acceptable range is 0.5-1.19 volts. The whole 0.99vokts thing is a myth and really shouldn't be a thing to check if the car isn't running well. First thing to do is run the engine codes.
Innova 3145 is a cheap sub $25 code reader that will make this easy since 1987s did not have a functional check engine light
TPS acceptable range is 0.5-1.19 volts. The whole 0.99vokts thing is a myth and really shouldn't be a thing to check if the car isn't running well. First thing to do is run the engine codes.
Innova 3145 is a cheap sub $25 code reader that will make this easy since 1987s did not have a functional check engine light
^^ what he said.
I will add there other unknowns here,
'Power braking' type of burnout your rear brakes are too tight and heating up causing expansion and more pressure to the drums
Auto trans excessive slippage in torque converter
Stick trans excessive clutch slippage
Low compression, sticky tires, not enough timing, low fuel pressure, right shoe too small, two fat girls hiding in your trunk.
You get the idea.
Tell us about the car and the circumstance surrounding your burnout.
Man, I've had far too much coffee this morning
I will add there other unknowns here,
'Power braking' type of burnout your rear brakes are too tight and heating up causing expansion and more pressure to the drums
Auto trans excessive slippage in torque converter
Stick trans excessive clutch slippage
Low compression, sticky tires, not enough timing, low fuel pressure, right shoe too small, two fat girls hiding in your trunk.
You get the idea.
Tell us about the car and the circumstance surrounding your burnout.
Man, I've had far too much coffee this morning
Its an aod but I just had it rebuilt with a new torque converter so it doesn't have anything to do with the transmission. I bought that code reader and the damn thing doesn't work at all no codes pop up. My friend was saying maybe the rear brakes are working to well since I changed them recently they are all new. The burnout is the usual stand still in 1st foot on brake the other on the gas and just tapping the brake giving her some gas. I really don't understand why she won't roast them its like she doesn't have enough power or something is stopping her I don't know l.^^ what he said.
I will add there other unknowns here,
'Power braking' type of burnout your rear brakes are too tight and heating up causing expansion and more pressure to the drums
Auto trans excessive slippage in torque converter
Stick trans excessive clutch slippage
Low compression, sticky tires, not enough timing, low fuel pressure, right shoe too small, two fat girls hiding in your trunk.
You get the idea.
Tell us about the car and the circumstance surrounding your burnout.
Man, I've had far too much coffee this morning
How good are your rear tires? If they are half decent rubber, they might grip too well.
Rear drum brakes working too well? inreally wouldn't bank on that too much.
Need to figure out how to run the codes. That code reader is pretty simple to use and not being able to pull codes may point to a bigger electrical issue that would definitely reduce the engine power greatly.
Rear drum brakes working too well? inreally wouldn't bank on that too much.
Need to figure out how to run the codes. That code reader is pretty simple to use and not being able to pull codes may point to a bigger electrical issue that would definitely reduce the engine power greatly.
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Burnouts like you discribe are a cool way to burn up rear brakes and over heat your transmission if the rears are not turning over. Try pumping up the rear tire pressure to the maximum psi listed on the tires, back off the rear brake adjustment a couple clicks, lay down a good amount of water and drive throught it then back up into the puddle then power brake it.
I know it's definitely not those tires they are cheap ones. I know that the ground for the transmission has been off the car ever since i got it could that be a reason it won't pull codes?
Steel1
Mustang Master
Don't think trans ground would have anything to do with it.
When you hook up code reader and turn on does it respond in any way?
If everything checks out fine it should only throw code 11.
When you hook up code reader and turn on does it respond in any way?
If everything checks out fine it should only throw code 11.
Steel1
Mustang Master
Make sure you have the code reader plugged in correctly, should be large plug with three connections and one smaller square plug. You may have looked at this already but here's a very informative link.
https://www.stangnet.com/mustang-fo...codes-from-eec4-in-86-95-5-0-mustangs.889006/
https://www.stangnet.com/mustang-fo...codes-from-eec4-in-86-95-5-0-mustangs.889006/
What transmission ground are you talking about?
Grounds on thses efi cars are very important, there are 4 under the hood and one by the computer in to passenger kick panel.
Grounds on thses efi cars are very important, there are 4 under the hood and one by the computer in to passenger kick panel.
There really isn't a ground on the AOD. There's 4 wires. Reverse lights, and NSS.
If you have reverse lights, and the car starts, not the issue
If you have reverse lights, and the car starts, not the issue
The ground is on the drivers side and it attaches to the side of the transmission. I looked at the computer but I didn't see anything unplugged besides the speakers or it was the radio im not sure once I plugged it in the stereo finally worked. What else could it be?
Check the ignition timing. Pull the spout and increase the initial timing to between 12-14 degrees. 12 is good since it maintains slightly better power at higher rpm. If you want more low end throttle response, set it to 14. Dont forget to put the spout back in.
Then get a line lock which which allows you to prevent the rear brakes from applying during burnouts. Should be able to smoke em good then.
Then get a line lock which which allows you to prevent the rear brakes from applying during burnouts. Should be able to smoke em good then.
Ive always wanted to set the timing but ive wanted to wait till i do my upgrades so it all ties into each other but I don't think that would be it because that has never been messed with it has been in the family since it came off the show room floor. Im just wondering why it stops climbing in rpms while trying to spin and why maybe the code reader isn't reading anything, maybe something is unplugged but what would it be?
If that wire bolted to the transmission is screwed to the firewall on the drivers side it's likely ok but I'd bolt it to the back of the head where it belongs. The aluminum trans case is not good for that ground.
Disconnect the negative battery cable and turn on your head lights for 10 minutes or so then turn off the lights and hook up the cable, this resets the computer, then try the code reader again, if it works then drive the car around to bring it up to operating temp and ckeck the codes. There is a thread in the 50 tech/ how to section that will show how to run codes with a paper clip, try that
Disconnect the negative battery cable and turn on your head lights for 10 minutes or so then turn off the lights and hook up the cable, this resets the computer, then try the code reader again, if it works then drive the car around to bring it up to operating temp and ckeck the codes. There is a thread in the 50 tech/ how to section that will show how to run codes with a paper clip, try that
Ok so I should take the other end of that ground wire and bolt it to the emission bolt on the back of the head? The i should unplug the negative battery terminal and cut the headlight switch on? For 10 mins the try to run the codes and if it works drive the car around till operating temp?
Well, yes, let me explain a little better,
The grounds are very inportant as I said, battery ground to block, it should bolt directly to the block by the oil pressure sender. Another small wire from negative post on battery to the inner fender panel between battery and solenoid, a small wire from that same place going down to a cylindrical connector then into the wire harness. Another ground is bolted to the back of the head on the drivers side and to the firewall nearby with a small screw, this wire is usually a flat braided wire no covering if it's original. There is one on the passenger side below the egr valve area that comes from the injector harness and is bolted to the intake manifold or the back of the head, don't use the bolt that holds the air tube to the head, there are threaded bolt holes back there to use, its a little hard to find but it should be there. And the one by the computer in the passenger side kick panel, most grounds that screw to the body sheet metal are small sheetmetal screws with green heads.
Now about running the codes, disconnect the negative cable and turn the headlights on, this discharges any power left and alows a fresh start, turn lights off and hookup the battery cable.
Drive around to get the temps up to normal, some stop and go driving and also a steady 50 mph or more cruze so the computer experiences an array information so spend some time on the road, then run the codes, if the scanner does not work try the paper clip method, have pen and paper ready to write down the codes and report back.
If you can't run the codes with either methods you have a wiring or computer problem,
The grounds are very inportant as I said, battery ground to block, it should bolt directly to the block by the oil pressure sender. Another small wire from negative post on battery to the inner fender panel between battery and solenoid, a small wire from that same place going down to a cylindrical connector then into the wire harness. Another ground is bolted to the back of the head on the drivers side and to the firewall nearby with a small screw, this wire is usually a flat braided wire no covering if it's original. There is one on the passenger side below the egr valve area that comes from the injector harness and is bolted to the intake manifold or the back of the head, don't use the bolt that holds the air tube to the head, there are threaded bolt holes back there to use, its a little hard to find but it should be there. And the one by the computer in the passenger side kick panel, most grounds that screw to the body sheet metal are small sheetmetal screws with green heads.
Now about running the codes, disconnect the negative cable and turn the headlights on, this discharges any power left and alows a fresh start, turn lights off and hookup the battery cable.
Drive around to get the temps up to normal, some stop and go driving and also a steady 50 mph or more cruze so the computer experiences an array information so spend some time on the road, then run the codes, if the scanner does not work try the paper clip method, have pen and paper ready to write down the codes and report back.
If you can't run the codes with either methods you have a wiring or computer problem,
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