Buying Teksid this week... need crucial ?'s answered b4 purchasing

Back2Mustangs

Back2Mustangs

New Member
Sep 2, 2004
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#1
This is what I think I know to be fact so far:

1.) Lincoln Continentals had FWD Teksid block that will not work in Mustangs. Oil filter is on the opposite side and the block is machined to take a different bellhousing to bolt up to the trans-axle.

2.) 93+ Lincoln Mark VIII's had Teksid blocks with casting numbers F2LE and supposedly have weak(er) mains

3.) 96-98 Cobras got Teksids with casting numbers F6LE. There is a F6LZ casting but not sure if it was in both Cobra and Mark VIII or only one or the other.

4.) Some '99-'01 Cobras got a Teksid block. Both the Teksid and the WAP casting numbers are XR3E, but the Teksid is still visually identifiable by its physical differences in the intake valley. Also the XR3E is claimed to be the strongest of the Teksids for the eliminated jacking screws and larger caps with higher-torque yielding bolts.

5.) Teksids are aesthetically identifiable by the little, square cross-hatching on the intake-valley.

If anyone can add to this or correct any of it with factual data, please, please do so.
 

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#2
Although you haven't asked this specifically, I'm assuming that you're looking for the strongest aluminum block available that will work in a Stang, no?

If so, you're gonna want one of the new castings...RF3L2E-6015-CC. These are the same blocks that go into the 2005+ Mustang GT's. They are the strongest aluminum 4.6 V8 Ford has produced to date. The chilled bulkhead casting process gets most of the credit for this, along with some improvements in the valley over the RF1L2E's (used in the 2001+ Explorers until the RF3L2E was released).

And yes, they are stronger than the Teksid block, and much easier to obtain.
 
#4
Not true! Talk to the guys at VT Engines. They have built several in the 800 hp range with continued success, and are currently building one to 1200 hp.

Contrary to popular belief, these blocks are pretty much indistructable for street applications.
 
#5
Any of the Aluminum/iron blocks with the right internal components will be more than stout enough for all but the most severe applications. Don't go passing over a '93-95 Mark VIII block or a non Teksid '99/'01 block in search of a '96-'98 Block just because the mains are marginally stronger. If you’re like 99% of the builders out there you aren't ever planning to see more than 600rwhp. And all Modular blocks will handle those power levels.....regardless of the material they're made of or slight differences in their design.

Ask yourself....when was the last time you saw a Modular block of any sort fail? If so, I'll bet it was a one in a million shot!
 
#7
Gearbanger 101 said:
Any of the Aluminum/iron blocks with the right internal components will be more than stout enough for all but the most severe applications. Don't go passing over a '93-95 Mark VIII block or a non Teksid '99/'01 block in search of a '96-'98 Block just because the mains are marginally stronger. If you’re like 99% of the builders out there you aren't ever planning to see more than 600rwhp. And all Modular blocks will handle those power levels.....regardless of the material they're made of or slight differences in their design.

Ask yourself....when was the last time you saw a Modular block of any sort fail? If so, I'll bet it was a one in a million shot!
Click to expand...

Couldn't agree more. These aluminum mod blocks are so much stronger than most people realize. They will handily hold 1000 HP at the crank, if not more.

You do have the option of the SHM/World race block for $4,700 :), but VT engines has said that the early designs of this block have shown to crack even on mild motors.
 
#8
I'd like to be in the neighborhood of 650-700 at the wheels with the use of a twin-screw blower, and as always -> want room to grow. I want aluminum for one reason -> weight (This isn't a straight-line car) I admit that I like the feeling of security Teksids are known to offer... that my internals and high boost levels are nicely nestled in a 1000HP-capable saftey net known as a 99-01 XR3E Teksid. I am also trying this with a challenge... I'm sticking with Non-PI heads... worked over, of course, to the max of their potential... but none-the-less a challenge which would offer me great satisfaction if I succeed. With a tight bottom end, the right cams, proper fuel & spark, and the help of Mr Kenne Bell I'm aimin' for the sky.

The only part I haven't figure out yet is who will do the tuning...
 
#11
Matt's 03 GT said:
www.modularpowerhouse.com

Go and check with them. Lots of 700 hp street cars and some good tech info.

Why would you go to the trouble of trying to make this much power on the non-pi heads? I never understand why people set their expectations so high. If you want 700 hp use a proven strategy and you will get there.
Click to expand...

Yeah I know about MPH, just don't know if I want to trailer the car across states to get to them...

And I agree with you that it would be easier to just do a 4V swap with a KB big bore blower and call it a day, but I've still got that weight-bug in the back of my head. The 32V heads are quite a bit heavier, each, (I did a comparison in another thread a while back) than the Non-PI heads... and Non-PI heads are like $50 a set... send 'em off for a good P&P and they will perform as well if not better than the PI heads. I just want to do this combo... call it stubborness I suppose. But it should do what I want so why not...

Anyways the block that I'm going to get this weekend is a 2001 Cobra Teksid so I think it will perform well for my needs. I just wanted to be sure I got my facts straight and kill any untrue rumors. I'm sticking with the Teksid for this build. Maybe when I see more proof that '01 Steed's RF3L2E-6015-CC casting is the new bad boy on the aluminum block then I might consider it for my next project. ; ) How about a 1000++HP, Twin Turbo, Aluminum Modular, FR500-headed monster in a Factory Five AC Cobra...? That'd be a death ride for sure, eh!

Or what about a '69 Fastback? This one is Hal Baer's... I think it is calling out for a modular with rediculous horsepower.

http://www.mothers.com/powertour/powertour97/PT97_Pics_Large/PT97_340.jpeg
http://www.virtual-carshow.com/hrpt99/blk69ms5.jpg
http://baer.com/New%20Gallery/Vehicles/Ford_Gallery/1960's_Mustangs/images/drivers%20side.%20angle%20three%20quarter%20rear%20tight%20shot.jpg

Thats my next project... 69 Fastback or AC Cobra. I need to do a poll thread.
 
#12
I would love to know how this works out. My concerns from what I have read are the Compression ratio of the Non PI heads and the flow!

I think it was on this site that someone put a blower on a non pi mustang and just touched 300RWHP. I will search and see what I can find. This does not bode well for your project, but anything is possible with enough time and money! :hail2:

I wish you the best,

Matt
 
#13
When John Mihovetz made all those low 7 second passes in his 2002 Cougar with a 282" 4 valve with a Teksid block, I think that proved the durability of the Teksid. he was reportedly making over 2,000 HP at the crank. The Teksid seems to be as stout as they come.
 
#14
As already stated, just about any of the aluminum blocks will suffice.

I think the situation is this...

The new block hasn't been around long enough for the general populus to prove it's strength, and that may never be proven out given the high hp any of these blocks can handle. But I liken the Teksid concensus to the proverbial big ship....it takes a while to turn it's direction.
That being said, my information comes straight from the horse's mouth. That is to say, people within the Ford Engine Engineering community.

Think about it....why would Ford dump money into a new version of a block (RF1L2E vs. RF3L2E) if significant gains weren't part of the equation? The FEA data exists to support this claim.

Trust me, and time should bear this out, the new block is the ****nit.
 
#17
Just for ****s and giggles.....I wonder how many people that start out on these projects who claim they’re eventually going to build a 700hp street sweeper never get past the 400hp mark, or just don’t bother finishing it because they’ve either run out of money, or lost interest. :D

Not directed at you specifically Back2Mustangs, it just seems as though every second thread I open as of late concerning anything more than basic bolt ons to their car, has to do with someone wanting to build a 10-second street car. At what point do you think it is that reality sets in and these guys realize it’s not a cheap or easy as they originally thought it would be. ;)
 
#18
Gearbanger 101 said:
Just for ****s and giggles.....I wonder how many people that start out on these projects who claim they’re eventually going to build a 700hp street sweeper never get past the 400hp mark, or just don’t bother finishing it because they’ve either run out of money, or lost interest. :D

Not directed at you specifically Back2Mustangs, it just seems as though every second thread I open as of late concerning anything more than basic bolt ons to their car, has to do with someone wanting to build a 10-second street car. At what point do you think it is that reality sets in and these guys realize it’s not a cheap or easy as they originally thought it would be. ;)
Click to expand...

I completely agree with you. My first few Mustang GT's and couple of LT1 Z28's taught me how expensive these cars are just to maintain, if you drive them hard all the time. They certainly don't last forever, even in stock trim. I used to think the same way though... that with only these few parts I could have ALL this power, hahahaha. Its just something that you have to learn I guess. People don't think about all of the other extra costs involved. The labor, nuts and bolts and the supporting mods that have to be done. The tuning and the rebuilding when you forget something or a part fails... it's a lot of time, a lot of research, a lot of elbow grease, a lot of sweat, and a lot of money....and a little more money, and a little more money...:D

I just spent $6K for my girlfriend and I to go see Rome and the F1 race at Monza in Italy. It was very hard for me not to stay home and just order myself a KB blower. But I got to see Schumi race for the last time at Ferrari's home track just before he announced his retirement. For me, its like this - I know I'm about to spend $15K on JUST a motor and a blower... but is it worth it to me? "Yes." :) So will I finish it? "Yes."
 
#19
'01 Steed said:
Although you haven't asked this specifically, I'm assuming that you're looking for the strongest aluminum block available that will work in a Stang, no?

If so, you're gonna want one of the new castings...RF3L2E-6015-CC. These are the same blocks that go into the 2005+ Mustang GT's. They are the strongest aluminum 4.6 V8 Ford has produced to date. The chilled bulkhead casting process gets most of the credit for this, along with some improvements in the valley over the RF1L2E's (used in the 2001+ Explorers until the RF3L2E was released).

And yes, they are stronger than the Teksid block, and much easier to obtain.
Click to expand...

01Steed,
are the 5.4 3V blocks also aluminum? If so what is needed to mate my 2V heads to them?
 
#20
I have a 1998 cobra with a Teksid block. Correct me if I am wrong because I researched Teksid about 5 years ago - so I could be a little rusty....

According to my research 1998 was the only year they used "the best" Teksid blocks. I know your 01 might be "doable" but when I compared buying an 01 cobra against my 98 I researched the blocks and the consensus was the 01 aluminum was inferior quality and nothing on the market - although the times have changed since - at the time could compare to the quality of the 1998. In fact at those times, engine shops would seek out these 98 blocks for their 1000+hp build up's. I think SHM has a good write up if you can find it - I read it from one of their books.

I have a 1998 cobra with blower compression, heads, intake, forged internals and obviously the Teksid block. I know with confidence I can make a 600 hp streetable car - but as pointed out when you get into the 550hp+ range you start to mess with race fuel, or octane booster, something to get you above 93 ocatane. People say they will build the "baddest" car and yeah, you may have the money, but are you prepared to run it on race fuel if it was going to be a semi-daily driver and not just a 1/4 mile car that gets towed to the track. Good luck and get some work done to those heads - you are going to need them with that hp goal!:flag:
 
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