Bypassing Power Steering

Discussion in '1979 - 1995 (Fox, SN95.0, & 2.3L) -General/Talk-' started by j0rd4n, Mar 20, 2017.

  1. what damage will be done if i ran a shorter belt that could bypass the power steering pulley? will it pressurize or something and blow fluid everywhere? my other vehicle is a 95 ranger that has manual steering so i am used to driving without power steering anyway, if i can eliminate some drag than why not. I know it will be a bitch to turn while starting to move but like i said im used to it.

    is it possible? just curious. if not, what does it damage.
  2. Two completely different steering boxes.

    Eliminate some drag? What drag? You think you will gain usable HP by cutting out the steering pump?

    Just wait until you hit 88 mph. :spot:
  3. If my calculations are correct we are going to see some serious :poo:.

    In all seriousness you can bypass it but gains will be zero. In fact you will be out 20 dollars for a new belt.
    sen2two likes this.
  4. It's probably a 1HP gain, $20 for a new belt, plus the cost of a new rack when the power one craps the bed from not having it's pump running while going through it's motions.

    Not to mention there is no clean way to bypass the PS pump pulley with it still in place. You'd need to delete the pump, and hope the A/C compressor is there to have a shot at routing the belt. If the A/C compressor is gone as well, you are looking at custom accessory brackets to route the belt. Those aren't cheap.

    All for 1 HP.

    BTW, a true manual rack, and a power rack running manually do not steer the same. In fact, a power rack "converted" to manual is probably harder to turn.
  5. But your arms will look like your a pro wrestler!
    FoxMustangLvr likes this.
  6. No "probably" to it.

    I've had one car with a manual rack. The steering in it was only a little heavy at low speeds and very when not moving at all. When one of my cars with a power rack blew out a seal, it took a gargantuan effort to turn the wheel when not moving or moving at low speeds. It was a HUGE difference in effort over a manual rack. ;)
    #6 74stang2togo, Mar 20, 2017
    Last edited: Mar 20, 2017

  7. Probably the only time your arms were ever the same size. :D
    RaggedGT and Davedacarpainter like this.
  8. Bish please.

    I'm both ambidextrous and a mechanic, they're ALWAYS the same size! :rlaugh:
  9. Thanks for the replies I didn't get an answer tho why Does it damage the rack? Also I would assume there is noticeable drag but only while making a sharp turn.

    Only reason I asked is because I was taking the smog pump and ac compressor because I was given under drive pullies and the right belt.... but unless I relocate the steering pump I can't use this belt without skipping the steering pump and keeping a useless ac compressor on which is dumb. I'll have to order the bracket, anyone know of the cheapest one?

    Last time I looked it was at least 50$ that seems excessive just to move the power steering pump a few inches. I've read what the underdrive pullies can do, I've heard good things about those. I've heard that you have to press off the pulley to the power steering otherwise I don't get why they don't offer one of those too.

    does anyone know where I can buy just the alternator underdrive pully because I only got the crank and water pump pulley. I managed to get the 2 pullies, gt40 upper and lower and the 70.5 inch belt for 100$ but no alternator pulley.
  10. Just waiting for money to run a bigger egr spacer, throttle body, and maf with a legit cold air intake because the previous owner basically has the filter sitting above the header. But with all that and the pullies I should definitely feel a difference, I also just put in 4.10 gears
  11. Why would you remove the A/C? The smog pump can stay in place as well. Underdrive pulleys won't gain you much, you'll probably have charging and cooling issues as well.
    Davedacarpainter likes this.
  12. Please stop... You are currently going right down the list of, "Things I wish I had never done".

    Before you do a bunch a stuff that is going to:

    a) Kill drivability of the car
    b) Create maintenance problems
    c) Create and stack computer error codes
    d) Cause you to return to Stangnet and create a new thread asking how to convert to carburetor because you think that's the reason why the car runs so very poorly.

    Seriously... We can drag up tons of threads where dudes inherit previous owner nightmares.

    Additionally, underdrive pulleys on Fox cars are garbage. If you're a smoker, they make attractive ash-trays for the garage.
  13. Because the rack is designed to work with assist.

    The steering ratio, teeth design, and perhaps materials are chosen with the assumption that there will be hydraulic power there to assist by putting pressure on the piston in the rack. Eliminate this assist, and now you have greater load on the actual rack and pinion assembly for which it was never designed.

    A set of skinnies, you might be ok for a while, but standard street tires this will put quite a load and you run the risk of stripping up the gearing in the rack.

    Manual racks are designed from day one to be manual so the ratio is different as well which eases the load quite a bit
  14. I honestly would not run the pullies. Too much potential for cooling/charging issues.

    For an alt pulley, you would want to run an overdrive pulley to compensate for the reduction in belt speed. ASP makes a few different size ford pullies, down to a 1 7/8" pulley which is what I'd run if you are considering using the underdrives.
    FoxMustangLvr likes this.
  15. The PS rack was designed for power assistance via the hydraulic fluid. No hydraulic pressure means the rack will be weak causing you to have to crank hard on the wheel to turn it. Flaming river manual racks work like a gear reduction drive instead of hydraulic assistance which in turn makes it easier to turn the wheel.

    In short, if you want manual steering then get a rack designed for it and install it while running narrow wheel up front. Otherwise leave the PS pump and rack alone. We won't really advise anyone here to "hack" up their car. If somebody is short on money then we suggest patience and saving your money to do it right.

    Best of luck regardless.
  16. Bingo. Do it right the first time, and only do it once.

  17. From facebook? I'd like to request an update. What are they saying that under-drive pulleys can do now? What is the current magical number that one gets from installing under-drive pulleys on a 302 Windsor? I can explain why it's wrong.
  18. There was a good post on FB yesterday about how 160 tstats are all one should run on an EFI fox as well...
    krazedstang and 74stang2togo like this.
  19. The previous owner pulled all the ac components so it was literally just an a anchor doing nothing. I feel like you guys are trying to attack me ... I read other posts about the pullies on other forums and heard some have charging issues but most are fine and notice a small amount of power. I live in southern Cali if the a/c worked there is no way I would remove it even if it was a massive gain. I felt the pulley when it was off the car and it's no worse than a idler pulley but what is the point of keeping it on, decoration?

    I didn't expect some huge power gain but just wanted to clean up the engine bay. They basically came free with the gt40 intake so I figured I'd give it a shot if it didn't work out, just switch them back. My serp belt needed replaced so if I have to end up using stock pullies and buying another belt no harm there either.

    If there is charging issues or cooling issues I will switch back to stock pullies. There is a huge aftermarket radiator with an electric fan that I put a fan controller on to maintain 190 degrees. I don't plan on driving it in the summer unless it's a cool day or if I feel like it's worth putting all the ac components back in it. I have my daily if it's too hot