Bypassing Power Steering

Discussion in '1979 - 1995 (Fox, SN95.0, & 2.3L) -General/Talk-' started by j0rd4n, Mar 20, 2017.

  1. Not at all... We're trying to save you a ton of time, money, and elbow grease, trying to put back to stock, all of those things that make the car even the remotest fun to drive on the street.
    Mustang5L5 and 74stang2togo like this.
  2. Two magic words "Southern Cali " are an indication that you will run afoul of the smog inspection with your plans. You could very well find yourself unable to do anything with the car but tow it to the racetrack, and once there, lose miserably.
    74stang2togo likes this.
  3. I agree with that. Getting it to pass smog was easy ... people love money, but if I were to be pulled over for something and inspected I would be screwed.
    HotFox and Mustang5L5 like this.
  4. You're under the impression I took a car that would pass smog and dismantled all of that... the car had no smog equipment on it when I bought it besides a smog pump that wasn't connected and egr valve not connected. if everything was intact I would most definitely left it hooked up and made hp gains the legal way. Trying to find a mustang that is not all molested is nearly impossible as I'm sure you know
  5. Naw, I'm under the impression that it's going to get worse. o_O
  6. We are here to help, realistically you're gonna do what you want to with your car, we're just trying to help you see that the little to no gain in HP is going to be at the cost of driveability and reliability, to most of isn't worth it.
    FoxMustangLvr and 74stang2togo like this.
  7. Which I understand and respect. I wouldn't dismantle being able to pass smog or having cold ac in Southern California to gain 5-10 hp. The car didn't have these things from the get-go. I wouldn't get rid of my power steering either because I know what it's like not having it and it sucks. The underdrive pullies I honestly thought helped because I've seen a few threads about actually making a few more ponies and thought that was a known thing. I see that's not the case here in this crowds opinion. I figured at worst I'd be ok because I was not changing the alternator pully although I understand making the crank pulley smaller still makes the alternator turn less times per crank turn. If I do have charging issues I kept my stock pullies where I can easily find them and it took me all of 20 minutes putting them on.. I didn't spend any money , they were basically given to me.

    I haven't heard anyone argue that my 100$ purchase of the gt40 intake was dumb so in the end I don't get why im being roasted like some idiot ruining my car because I got some pullies and the belt necessary in with the deal... maybe what I will do is put the stock pullies back on after I finish with the intake swap and see if there is any noticeable difference because any speed difference I feel now would just be attributed to the intake swap. and after I do the test I will report back and let you all know that it's true and I didn't feel anything from a mod that can cost over a 100$ and make your car overheat or develop a charging issue. Im done defending myself from people acting like I drilled holes in the frame to "shave weight"

    I made this thread to see if skipping the power steering pump was something people did at the drag strip to maybe shave a tenth in the 1/4 and how or why it would ruin the steering rack. Maybe i worded it incorrectly but I feel like my I got a response of people saying "you're an idiot"
  8. This has to make you wonder why. :chin

    Not roasting but we will tell you straight up. Some folks are put off by this initially. Here, we have "conversations" where at a lot of places on-line it's a "I know more than you know" contest.

    Go back and look at the replies. The ones that I saw in this thread and on this topic, all had explanations as to why this is a bad idea.
    krazedstang likes this.
  9. Your $100 purchase of a GT40 intake wasn't dumb. It's a good intake. Heck, I just picked up an Explorer intake, and am pretty happy about it. A pair of GT40P heads are on the list as well.

    We're trying to help you. I've personaly been down virtually the same road you're on. I ruined a car, and regret it now. Now I'm a bit older, a bit wiser, and want a car I can take on a trip if I want. The A/C needs repaired, the carbon canister is missing, someone removed the smog stuff, etc. I'm planning on putting all that stuff back on. WY doesn't require emissions testing, but I'm tired of smelling gasoline and exhaust fumes.

    I would work on getting the car back to it's former glory, with some sensible mods along the way. Put the smog stuff back on, put the A/C back on (now would be a great time to convert to R134a), make the car a good driver. Unless your end goal with the car is different than a modified restoration.

    If you just want a drag car, and plan on trailering it to the track, then that's your prerogative.
  10. You don't need to 'defend' yourself here.
    I didn't see where anybody called you an idiot.
    The people responding have 'been there and done that'.
    It's friendly advice, no bashing,
    You've been bouncing in and out of here since 2013, so you know the people here have some credibility and class.
    'Cept maybe me, after all I'm just a boob
    74stang2togo likes this.
  11. I've tried all the things you suggested.

    Here's the thing. None serve any point.
    I'm not as hell bent against the pulley's as these guys, with that said I wouldn't purchase them again.

    As for the AC and power steering, the ac takes no power to drive it, the PS only takes a couple hp (literally, a couple) and neither has any significant weight to it. Removing both not only makes things uncomfortable but detracts from the value of the car.

    If this is a race car (which by deleting these things makes it one step close to one), by all means remove them, if it's a street car it's a mistake.

    Just remember, nothing is all that great about a high 13 second race car.

    I'm going to guess deleting the rear seat is on your list also, forgo that mod too.
    At 100lbs per tenth, losing weight isn't great as is sounds.

    I know the opinions may seem harsh right now, but if you intend on keeping this car for the long run, you'll eventually look back and understand the distaste for these ideas.

    If you want your car to pick up any notable amount of power, you need to focus the build around the heads. Without good heads, the supporting parts like the intake, cam do very little.

    If you bought a real gt40 intake for $100, that is a steal and a great purchase.
    jrichker and FoxMustangLvr like this.
  12. One other thing: If we didn't have cars to talk about, this entire forum would be nothing but:

    krazedstang and 74stang2togo like this.
  13. I know right! Good thing this site is only 50% about "Cornholio" and beer.
    74stang2togo likes this.
  14. We are here to help keep you from making this "bad" car worse than the way you got it. Just because the previous owner of your car hacked it up doesn't mean that you should pick right up from where he left off. If you want performance then get some legit mods that will give you HP & TQ while keeping some of the creature comforts these cars have (which are not many). Fix the PS system or get a manual steering rack. Fix the A/C or go ahead and get the A/C delete PS relocation kit from LMR. A lot of people report issues with cooling and charging after doing UD pullies. It's up to you however you've been warned. Besides, you said it's only 20 minutes to swap the pullies so there is not much of an investment to find out what kind of SOTP feel there is with the modification. I hope you have a 3g alternator already installed in the car before doing the UD pullies.

    Good luck either way.
  15. With my old under drive pullies the headlights would dim at lights. The dash lights would also flicker in intensity. Tje car idled at about 11- 12v. I didn't have issues with cooling.

    When I switched to stock sized pullies it idled around 13v with the headlights and fog lights on.

    My car also seemed to bog a little at night from a standstill.

    I don't mind seeing other peoples cars dim the headlight with every lope of the camshaft but I don't want my car to do it.

    The power steering pulley bypass doesn't seem like a good idea to me. The AC delete I understand since the car has been molested.

    I'm sure you plan on doing things to upgrade that car or you wouldn't have bought it.

    In the end.... We are all just tryin' to make what we have work.
  16. internet hurt.jpg
  17. I lol'd :neat:
    74stang2togo likes this.
  18. I run UD pulleys. It's a complete kit. Likely not worth the money, I probably wouldn't do it again. Even if you got UD pulleys for free, I would advise against installing them at the same time as other mods like GT40p heads and such, just because it's going to make chasing drivability issues trickier (trying to figure out if stalling/idle issues are coming from the pulleys or not). I would also not install just 1 or 2 UD pulleys, I would only do the full set because they are meant to work with each other.

    I agree with everyone else NOT to get rid of PS pump while leaving the power rack installed. I personally use the LMR kit to relocate the pump and I no longer have AC compressor or smog pump. Hey did someone mention drag strip? Lets talk numbers. UD pulleys are dyno proven 10ish hp gain at the crank. But that's under just the right circumstances and they really aren't thaaat cheap. Removing the belt completely? That's good for 20hp gain at around redline. Right now I'm trying to develop a way to quickly switch my serpentine belt to run just my water pump at the strip. But just removing PS pump to get poneys? On street car? Nah don't do that

    With my UD pulleys my lights do dim at idle but I've never had drivability issue. In fact I just replaced my bad TPS sensor which was causing the car to surge in the cold; with the UD pulleys my rear LED center tail light blinked on and off. Actually made me laugh.
    mikestang63 likes this.