C & L Maf Sample Tubes
- Thread starter Rjaaaaaa
- Start date
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Inlet/outlet
Orange - .650/.570
Blue - .650/.555
Green - .650/.485
I don't have measurements for the Red as mine was an 80mm. You will still need the chart and see what color tube aligns with what housing and what injector. Red falls somewhere between blue and green for applicable sized housings.
On a slightly different note: I rid myself of a lot of drive-ability gremlins by ditching that C&L.
Orange - .650/.570
Blue - .650/.555
Green - .650/.485
I don't have measurements for the Red as mine was an 80mm. You will still need the chart and see what color tube aligns with what housing and what injector. Red falls somewhere between blue and green for applicable sized housings.
On a slightly different note: I rid myself of a lot of drive-ability gremlins by ditching that C&L.
I'll just second what Noobz said, i'd get rid of the C&L because of the gremlins. I never could get my 76mm C&L to run right on my 95 Cobra (tweecer tuned).
Here is the info I have from my documentation. In case you need flow charts for all the sensors, I have all those in excel.
C&L Sample Tube Diameters
Tube # Entrance Exit
.650 094 0.650? 0.650?
Clear 101 0.565 0.565
Black 105 0.485 0.485
Brown 095
Gold 096
Orange 097 0.650 0.570
Blue 102 0.650 0.555
Purple 099 0.650 0.540
Red 103 0.650 0.510
Green 104 0.650 0.485
Here is the info I have from my documentation. In case you need flow charts for all the sensors, I have all those in excel.
C&L Sample Tube Diameters
Tube # Entrance Exit
.650 094 0.650? 0.650?
Clear 101 0.565 0.565
Black 105 0.485 0.485
Brown 095
Gold 096
Orange 097 0.650 0.570
Blue 102 0.650 0.555
Purple 099 0.650 0.540
Red 103 0.650 0.510
Green 104 0.650 0.485
I got to agree with Hoytster and Noobz on the issues with C&L. I would really recommend switching to a different meter.
I would guess that is why youre having issues.
I don't like C&L much either, but if it were me, I would order the right sample tube and see if that clears up some of your issues.
Your tube should be WRONG... I wouldn't even worry about what size it is...
Were you able to find a place to order a new tube?
Well my gasket came yesterday and I put it all back together today. It most definitely had a vacuum leak before and the new gaskets seemed to have helped but it was still not running right.
So I decided to start looking at the mafs. I fooled around with some duct tape and covered a portion of the sample tube just to see what would happen. Mine was only .550 to begin with and as I covered just a small section at the front top of the sample tube the engine started to even out and idle better. So I found just the right amount that made the engine run better and it seemed to be like an 1/8" blocked off at the front top of the tube ??
I pulled the sample tube out and pushed some aluminum foil into the tube and then took some JB weld and filled the first 1/4" of the tube down about 1/8" and let it set up.
I then took the foil out and reshaped the top section of the tube with my dremel and used this as a starting point. When I reinstall the tube and mafs the car ran like a champ, I was stunned as to how little I changed the opening and how much of a difference it made.
Vristang I'm sorry I didn't put much weight on the mafs being that important but I'm a believer now.
I took the car out for a couple of test runs 10 -12 miles up the road and it ran good. I think it has to run a few miles after it's all been hooked up to settle down. It sure felt good to be able to run down the road again. YAHOOOOOO!!!
I did find where that high pitched sound was coming from, it's like a whistle and it's coming from the mafs? When I first got the car I never heard this noise, only since I have worked on it after the fire. The fire never got near the mafs so I don't know why it's whistling now, The mod I did didn't have much effect on the sound either. It is only present under acceleration ?? Sound is reduced with air filter in place.
Well thanks a lot all of you who have chimed in and tried to help, I'm still learning and that's what makes it interesting for me. I hope to enjoy the car for the rest of the summer now.
Thank
Ron
So I decided to start looking at the mafs. I fooled around with some duct tape and covered a portion of the sample tube just to see what would happen. Mine was only .550 to begin with and as I covered just a small section at the front top of the sample tube the engine started to even out and idle better. So I found just the right amount that made the engine run better and it seemed to be like an 1/8" blocked off at the front top of the tube ??
I pulled the sample tube out and pushed some aluminum foil into the tube and then took some JB weld and filled the first 1/4" of the tube down about 1/8" and let it set up.
I then took the foil out and reshaped the top section of the tube with my dremel and used this as a starting point. When I reinstall the tube and mafs the car ran like a champ, I was stunned as to how little I changed the opening and how much of a difference it made.
Vristang I'm sorry I didn't put much weight on the mafs being that important but I'm a believer now.
I took the car out for a couple of test runs 10 -12 miles up the road and it ran good. I think it has to run a few miles after it's all been hooked up to settle down. It sure felt good to be able to run down the road again. YAHOOOOOO!!!
I did find where that high pitched sound was coming from, it's like a whistle and it's coming from the mafs? When I first got the car I never heard this noise, only since I have worked on it after the fire. The fire never got near the mafs so I don't know why it's whistling now, The mod I did didn't have much effect on the sound either. It is only present under acceleration ?? Sound is reduced with air filter in place.
Well thanks a lot all of you who have chimed in and tried to help, I'm still learning and that's what makes it interesting for me. I hope to enjoy the car for the rest of the summer now.
Thank
Ron
Try re-clocking the MAF a few times in say... 20 degree increments and see if you can a find a sweet spot where it works well.
Are you planning to get a correct MAF setup, or just run it the way it is?
The ecu can do some adapting at part throttle to account for error in the MAF calibration, but at WOT there is no learning.
If it were me, the car wouldn't be driven until I had the MAF sorted out, properly.
The ecu can do some adapting at part throttle to account for error in the MAF calibration, but at WOT there is no learning.
If it were me, the car wouldn't be driven until I had the MAF sorted out, properly.
At this point you might be better off putting in a set of 19lb injectors and a stock meter. It can be found cheap and you know it's matched for you engine and computer. I have a 93 with AFR heads, gt 40 intake and cam and I run stock 19's with zero issues.
Thank you for all your input, I do plan on having the car tuned but it really runs great now but I'm sure a tune would help. Why do you think it runs so good now with a smaller orifice on the sample tube ?
Mine was already a .550 which is the smallest they sell.
I'm just curious why it would be so good and I do value your insight here you, have been right on target.
Another thing is that the MAFS has a loud whistle coming from it under throttle, cruising you don't hear it at all. It never did this before and I didn't change anything on the intake tube side except remove the egr ? I'm running a Specter cone style air cleaner.
thanks
Ron
.
outlet
inlet, reduced opening approx. .125"
It could be that your epoxy pushed you closer to an accurate calibration for your injectors.
Or, just as likely, you pushed the output of the MAF so far away from accurate that the ecu is ignoring the signal and just running open loop.
Either way, I would not consider this a permanent fix.
Check for codes?
the whistle... I would guess a loose intake tube somewhere, Nothing in the MAF itself should be whistling. TB's have been known to make some noise though, and any change in the intake tubing will change how it sounds.
Or, just as likely, you pushed the output of the MAF so far away from accurate that the ecu is ignoring the signal and just running open loop.
Either way, I would not consider this a permanent fix.
Check for codes?
the whistle... I would guess a loose intake tube somewhere, Nothing in the MAF itself should be whistling. TB's have been known to make some noise though, and any change in the intake tubing will change how it sounds.
Thanks to all of you, it's been a tough recovery for me and the car. If I had been feeling better, I would have had this fixed a little faster but everything worked out ok. It's been so hot here in pa. that I can't enjoy the car anyway. I'll have plenty of time though in the future. I'll still be reading the forum and checking in from time to time.
Right now the car is running great, i'll keep my eye out for a different mafs or at least a sample tube and see how they work. Tuning will come, I understand that it's a little expensive. I'll check with a local speed shop and see.
And no the filter is not on the maf, it's 18" away in the inner fender.
Right now the car is running great, i'll keep my eye out for a different mafs or at least a sample tube and see how they work. Tuning will come, I understand that it's a little expensive. I'll check with a local speed shop and see.
And no the filter is not on the maf, it's 18" away in the inner fender.
No need to waist money on a tune. Just buy a good meter like a pro m and call it a day
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