Calling all SSBC disk brake kit owners!

[TC00GT]

I'm installing the SSBC disk brake kit on my 66 289. I've got everything together (and so far it's gone quite smoothly.) I'm trying to install the new dual master cylinder. Am I supposed to use the existing pushrod out of the original single master cylinder? If so, how do I seperate it from the plunger? I removed the plunger from the fruit jar, but I can't get the rod to seperate. I'm afraid to use too much force and damage it.

Any suggestions?

Also, one more question, when I put the front wheels back on (cragar SS unilugs 14x6 I think) they ever so slightly rub the caliper. Has anyone else had a rubbing problem? I added 1/16" washers so I can roll the car around, and that was all it took, but I'm not fond of leaving them in there. Do I need spacers, or is it the wheel? I plan on buying new wheels, just afraid that I'll have this problem with new ones too?

Help! hoping to get the brakes completed this weekend!

 

[chemeng]

SSBC / MC Pushrod

Pull like heck to get it out. Had to put my M/C in a vise and pry the old pushrod out. There is a groove in the rod with an expansion clamp that won't allow it to come out. I tore the clamp up removing the pushrod. Tried using the pushrod that came with the M/C but it wouldn't activate my brake light switch, so I had to go through removing the pushrod a 2nd time to put the original pushrod back in. No problems since. Not sure about your caliper rubbing, I've heard this happens with some wheels, one I read about actuall removed some of the caliper housing material for clearance.

I'm installing the SSBC disk brake kit on my 66 289. I've got everything together (and so far it's gone quite smoothly.) I'm trying to install the new dual master cylinder. Am I supposed to use the existing pushrod out of the original single master cylinder? If so, how do I seperate it from the plunger? I removed the plunger from the fruit jar, but I can't get the rod to seperate. I'm afraid to use too much force and damage it.

 

[TC00GT]

Yes I've been doing some research and I found a few other posts with the same question, and strange enough, the same answer. I guess I just need a bigger hammer.

Not sure about the wheel rubbing, would leaving the 1/16" washers behind the wheels pose any safety problems? I think I'll just use that as an excuse to get new wheels. Thanks for the reply.

 

[BullittStangV8]

I wouldnt run washers behind my wheels. Spacers are relativly cheap, and probably of higher quality metal then the washers. I dont konw about the brake swap tho.

 

[BlwnGazkit]

I've helped install an SSBC kit on a '67 with a 302 and CragarS/S 14x6, we had a fitment issue to. We simply swiped a hand file across the caliper a few times and touched the paint up and it fit fine.

I would prefer new wheels if ever doing it again... I HATE CRAGAR S/S rims, can't stand the slotted lug holes. Takes me forever to put them back on, but I might be doing it the hard way...

 

[BlwnGazkit]

I wouldnt run washers behind my wheels. Spacers are relativly cheap, and probably of higher quality metal then the washers. I dont konw about the brake swap tho.

Most spacers are made of aluminum. You can get grade 5 or 8 washers cheap and they're stronger than an aluminum spacer.

I wouldn't run washers over 1/16" either though, you lose a lot of support for the tire since now it's only supported directly at the lug.

 

[TC00GT]

I agree, I don't want to run the washers, but the thinnest spacer I've seen was 7/16, and I literally need like 1/16" or so. Maybe I'll hit the caliper with a file. I dislike the unilugs too, I can't wait to get rid of them. The rears are not unilugs, maybe I'll try fitting those first. Thanks everyone.

 

[Rusty67]

The stock 14" Ford oreo cookie rims fit those calipers but just barely. When I put my stock rims on I had about 1/16" between the rim and caliper. My main problem was the hard line cross over tube was rubing. As for using the spacers its not a problem for rolling the car around here and there but if you are going to do any real driving, I would use an actual spacer. You are not geting very much surface area conact with the washers, a spacer contacts the rim all the way around just like it would without the spacer. I don't know what the implications are but I would rather have a larger contact surface any day of the week.

You could buy a cheap wheel spacer and take it to a machine shop and have them make a very thin spacer for you. If you aren't going to keep the wheels tho, whats the point.

 

[mrmustangman357]

is it rubbing the very front of the caliper (closest to the rotor hat)? I took a grinder to it to notch it slightly. there is a good amount of material left in this location.

Also, the SSBC conversion bracket I was sold was mis-machined and the caliper was not centered on the disc rotor surface. I added almost 1/16 f grade 8 washers to where the caliper bolts on to the bracket and it works great now. mount everything up and take measurements (with the pads out) of the caliper to the piston in this area to see if you need to move the calipers inward. I did

 

[Rusty67]

I would have called them and made them send me a new bracket. I refuse to put up with that kind of crap at any price range. Improperly produced parts just irk me.

 

[mrmustangman357]

yes but I had a deadline and they told me shimming it was fine. I would rather have it come in undersize than go over so then my calipers would;ve rubbed.

Oh yes: USE RED LOCTITE on the mounting bolts for the entire unit. my two mounting bolts came out and locked the wheel up at 15 mph when the caliper squeezed between the wheel and the brake rotor. it was all okay, but use thread locker!

 

[reenmachine]

I would have called them and made them send me a new bracket. I refuse to put up with that kind of crap at any price range. Improperly produced parts just irk me.

How is this an improperly produced part? Do you expect them to guarantee that their brakes will fit with every single type of wheel ever made? It's completely out of their control.

 

[Rusty67]

Also, the SSBC conversion bracket I was sold was mis-machined and the caliper was not centered on the disc rotor surface.

How is this an improperly produced part? Do you expect them to guarantee that their brakes will fit with every single type of wheel ever made? It's completely out of their control.

If something isn't machined properly its wrong. I don't want parts that are not properly machined, its caused me enough headaches in the past. I wasn't talking about fitment of wheels at all.

 

[reenmachine]

Also, the SSBC conversion bracket I was sold was mis-machined and the caliper was not centered on the disc rotor surface.

Whoops -- I missed that part. I apologize.

 

[mrmustangman357]

lol it wasn't that big of a deal. after talking with SSBC i got mad for like 5 minutes than went to the hardweare store and bought washers, then fixed the problem.

BUT not to get too far off on this thread, this may be one issue for you to consider doing for getting clearance. I was frankly surprised the BBSC kit fit under my 14 inch wheels! (well, 17" bullitts coming soon he he)

 

[Rusty67]

lol it wasn't that big of a deal. after talking with SSBC i got mad for like 5 minutes than went to the hardweare store and bought washers, then fixed the problem.

BUT not to get too far off on this thread, this may be one issue for you to consider doing for getting clearance. I was frankly surprised the BBSC kit fit under my 14 inch wheels! (well, 17" bullitts coming soon he he)

You shouldn't be surprized they fit. The SSBC kit is a direct copy of the 65-67 K/H 4 piston setup. I think they use the 67 model caliper which had slightly larger pistons and a different way to retain the pads. They fit under the stock 14" rims then as well as today, all be it just barely.

 

[mikethebike]

I'm installing the SSBC disk brake kit on my 66 289. I've got everything together (and so far it's gone quite smoothly.) I'm trying to install the new dual master cylinder. Am I supposed to use the existing pushrod out of the original single master cylinder? If so, how do I seperate it from the plunger? I removed the plunger from the fruit jar, but I can't get the rod to seperate. I'm afraid to use too much force and damage it.

Any suggestions?

Also, one more question, when I put the front wheels back on (cragar SS unilugs 14x6 I think) they ever so slightly rub the caliper. Has anyone else had a rubbing problem? I added 1/16" washers so I can roll the car around, and that was all it took, but I'm not fond of leaving them in there. Do I need spacers, or is it the wheel? I plan on buying new wheels, just afraid that I'll have this problem with new ones too?

Help! hoping to get the brakes completed this weekend!

do not run washers!!! The best thing you can do is go to 15" rims and be done with it. Don't risk your life...and someone elses for the price of a set of rims.

 

[mrmustangman357]

mike, have you followed ANY of this thread at all? He already knows he isn't going to use washers on the wheel, maybe a spacer if he needs to. T00, have you tried checking to see if your calipers need washers added to the bracket? or if a little grinding is necessary on the caliper? It was a normal thing for me to get my stockers to fit. . .

 

[mikethebike]

mike, have you followed ANY of this thread at all? He already knows he isn't going to use washers on the wheel, maybe a spacer if he needs to. T00, have you tried checking to see if your calipers need washers added to the bracket? or if a little grinding is necessary on the caliper? It was a normal thing for me to get my stockers to fit. . .

If you have to grind the calipers to fit the wheels...the wheels are too small. Period. And I did miss the post where he said he would not use washers...my oversight. But if he uses spacers he is then moving the center of the wheel out from where it should be and placing additional stress on the spindle and wheel studs. Not a good idea.

 

[Rusty67]

If you have to grind the calipers to fit the wheels...the wheels are too small. Period. And I did miss the post where he said he would not use washers...my oversight. But if he uses spacers he is then moving the center of the wheel out from where it should be and placing additional stress on the spindle and wheel studs. Not a good idea.

I've talked to a million different people and everyone agrees that a wheel spacer of 1" or less is perfectly fine on most cars. Some even say 1.5" is ok but I don't like going that wide. I agree that puting extra strain on the wheel bearing is not a good idea, but if it is such a small amount like 1/16" then I'm quite sure it is no big deal, especially since its only temporary.