Camber adjustment w/ stock stuff

[Foxslider]

My camber is too positive. Wondering if i can adjust it with the stock plate. Right now they are set at maximum out or towarda fenders. So i was gonna loosen em up and slide it in to the middle. But the slot is kinda radiused so im thinkn its gonna throw the toe way off. I then adjust toe by tierods huh?

Suppose i could just buy some MM cc plates and be done. And i prob
Will. Was going to wait and do it with my coilovers. But i need to fix it now before i put good tires on front. They wore bigly on outside (cord started showing) while inside of tire was still same condition as when i got it.

 

[revhead347]

There are a few different methods. Your circumstance is not uncommon. There aren't too many of these cars left that haven't been wrecked, or at least hit a curb hard enough to bend the body a little bit. You can pull the strut mount down, and rotate it to see if that helps. You can also drill the holes in the shock tower a little bigger to allow some more adjustment.

Kurt

 

[Foxslider]

Cool, preciate the idear. Gotta make the hole bigger anyway when installing CC plates i assume?

 

[90sickfox]

The original plates were adjusted by drilling out the rivet, jacking both sides of the car off the ground, loosen nuts, move plate, tighten, let vehicle down, and adjust toe.

There are also camber bolts that replace one of the strut bolts to get correct camber. They are a lot easier to deal with.

 

[Mustang5L5]

Cool, preciate the idear. Gotta make the hole bigger anyway when installing CC plates i assume?

Nope. They use different mounting techniques to get a whole lot of range, and add the Caster these cars desperately need.

If you are gonna pay for an alignment, just get the C/C plates now

 

[90sickfox]

In all due respect. Caster is basically non adjustable without caster camber plates. It would be better to get aftermarket plates so you can get all the adjustments you may need. With aftermarket plates modifying the strut tower usually isn't needed. My UPR plates bolted on my 89 and 88 without issues.

 

[Foxslider]

Right on. I'll just get the CC's. Being stupid here.

Ima guess needing all the caster on these cars means push shock back towards firewall.

 

[Mustang5L5]

That's how mine is set.

Full caster to the firewall, 1 degree negative camber, 1/16" toe in.

With the SN95 steering rack, it's a nice heavy feeling on the highway. I like it.

My Maximum motorsports plates were easy to install and no modification to the strut tower is needed

 

[Foxslider]

Nice. I'll prob. Be like i shoulda done this sooner. + Gives me something to buy on black friday.

How do you check/set toe? I think drifters run toe out to help self steer. I think, not sure.

 

[Mustang5L5]

Toe out will make the car very twitchy and easy to turn. Toe straight ahead or 1/16" in will provide a more stable straight feel with a slower turn-in.


There are tools available that you can buy to do this in your driveway. Some home-depot 12" square tiles to level the car, a little salt thrown between them up front to act as turn plates, and a nice camber and toe gauge. Caster gauges tend to be a little more expensive.

It also depends on your skill level. I do my own home alignments on the Mustang mostly because I can't find a shop that will do custom specs. I spent maybe d $300 in tools and a lot of time spent perfecting my technique.

 

[Foxslider]

Ah i see. Cool! Pretty much what i'll need to do if i wanna get my specs dialed. I'll research it. I might eyeball stuff, drive repeat till i like it. Kind of a pain. But iono.

And you set toe via tierods right?