Can anyone identify these parts?

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That’s for sure. In my case. Life included building a CJ7 for my oldest son. A 89 GT for my second oldest son. A 96 Bronco for my other son. A Mach 1 for myself and a firebird to flip. There was also a move from Texas to Illinois in there as well. My poor Mustang II sat in the corner the whole time patiently waiting. Considering the move, its shocking parts didn’t get lost or more stuff didn’t get mixed in. I have all interior and trim back on the car now. All things considered. I’d say that’s pretty good after all this time and everything else that went on.
 
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OK fellow II owners. I’m going to start out with an apology from the beginning. I am so sorry. Now in my defense, I am 52 years old and my memory isn’t what it used to be. I’ve built many cars in my years and I tend to forget some of my “good ideas”. Anyway, I finally figured out/remember what these pieces are for. Many, many, many years ago, I built these pieces out of thin anodized aluminum for this car. They are used as sliders for the rear seat folding mechanism. As soon as I started installing the carpet over the back of the seat back bracket, I remembered. Like a light bulb turning on. Anyway, if anyone has the same issue I have with this car and my Cobra II, you may want to do this. Every Mustang II I’ve owned had an issue with the folding rear seat getting hung up on the carpet when putting it back up right. The panel that is supposed to glide on top of the carpeted back panel of the seat always gets hung up on the carpet itself. Most of us just lift up slightly on the panel and then it slides just fine. Well I wanted this to be a one hand operation and there for created these sliders.

Again these are made out of thin anodized aluminum. You just simply drill a hole in the bottom of the slider to align with your current existing sheet metal screw that holds the bottom of the carpet down. Then you drill another hole at the top to hold the top of the slider in place. There’s not an existing screw for this. So you’ll be asking your own. You want the aluminum sliders to be along both outer edges of the carpet
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Here’s what it looks like folded down. Now keep in mind I don’t have the seat cushions installed yet. So my bracket doesn’t lay flat yet. And the rough cut upper edge is covered by the seat cushion itself. But you can see how the sliders are installed.
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Here’s a shot from the back with the seat half folded. This should help explain the concept.
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I slightly, not even enough to notice, bent the corners down on the fold down support bracket so they are the only points of contact. And they ride on the anodized aluminum sliders. Nothing touches the carpet. This makes the seat folding up and down process extremely smooth. Literally a one handed operation with no hang ups or binding. It also preserves that piece of carpet from getting worn out, bunched up, and eventually torn like they almost always do. If you are having issues with your rear seat binding or hanging up when trying to put it back upright after being folded down. This is your solution.

I appreciate all the help and comments that eventually led to figuring out what these pieces are. Problem solved.
 
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The only concern I'd have would be when you're driving with the rear sear back in the up position, wouldn't there be a potential for rattling? I know that my seat back doesn't latch tightly, so it would probably rattle. I like it other than that potential issue! :nice:
 
I’m a jack of all trades. Pretty much repair anything and everything on my property that goes bad. I don’t like paying other people to do things I can do. Plus if I did it, I know it was done right. I also like to repurpose stuff. So it’s highly possible the pieces of anodized aluminum did come from something that is not automotive related. lol. I just can’t remember at this point.

As for rattle. This car isn’t currently drivable. But my latches are tight. There’s no way it will rattle. I did the same to my Cobra II and it doesn’t rattle either. I would think that if your latch doesn’t currently already rattle, this won’t make it start. If your latch does currently rattle, this adds a bit more thickness to the gap and should, if anything, tighten it up slightly.
 
I would need two more garages to label all the parts on things I have torn apart
I, like you throw the stuff in a pile and then have the same problem
I do not think they go to the car unless they are possibly gas tank strap isolators
I do not believe they are interior parts
 
I would need two more garages to label all the parts on things I have torn apart
I, like you throw the stuff in a pile and then have the same problem
I do not think they go to the car unless they are possibly gas tank strap isolators
I do not believe they are interior parts
:doh: Me thinks you be late to the party.
 
Also LILCBRA, that latch is adjustable. If yours is lose, you might want to adjust it to prevent any future potential rattles.
Thanks - I'll have to take a look at it. It's quite possible that it doesn't rattle, it could be that I'm remembering the rattle from my hatch. I got that taken care of thanks to @2Blue2 and Ebay, so once I get it actually driving again I'll have to pay more attention to it.

I’m a jack of all trades. Pretty much repair anything and everything on my property that goes bad. I don’t like paying other people to do things I can do. Plus if I did it, I know it was done right.
This sounds vaguely familiar.... like I know a guy like that..... :scratch:

obi-wan.gif


:jester:
 
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Thanks - I'll have to take a look at it. It's quite possible that it doesn't rattle, it could be that I'm remembering the rattle from my hatch. I got that taken care of thanks to @2Blue2 and Ebay, so once I get it actually driving again I'll have to pay more attention to it.


This sounds vaguely familiar.... like I know a guy like that..... :scratch:

obi-wan.gif


:jester:
Nobody had to make [guesses] that you're a 70-year-old man that aimlessly wanders the streets in his pajamas all day.

If that had not been true then I would have been surprised. :shrug:
 
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