Can ANYONE please help me..
- Thread starter 9646gt
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CanadaStang
New Member
9646gt said:
It's possible if the wires were old but you say they're pretty much new so I wouldn't think that would be the problem, but ya never know[you may have wriggled the wires around when you changed the plugs and it ran OK for awhile till they started shorting again] It's tough to diagnose a problem without being able to see or hear for myself what it sounds like, but if we keep eliminating one thing at a time we'll have purring in no time.
Well I am going to head out into the dark right fast and see if I cant figure out something..thanx again guys for the continued support..I may have to sell my modded xbox or something so I can get the money to get her going again...
CanadaStang
New Member
CanadaStang said:
I dont have a vacum tester yet (plan to buy one soon) but I cant "hear" any leaks and I have checked many vacume lines..as for the wires here was the situation...
They had the #7 wire ran from 3 on the coil pack to 3 on the motor and the #3 wire runing from 7 to 7 ..not sure at all if that distance in the wire or something will make a diff but me and my buddy did our best to clean up the wires and they are ALOT better layed out now...we are going to take it for a test drive here in a few and see what we can come up with in terms of if it helped or not..once again I will report back and thanks for all the help so far...
Orions98GT
New Member
Kilgore Trout said:
lol I did all that with my 98 and it still stumbled and did what you were saying, but then I went and bought a brand new set of plug wires, and oh my god what a difference. Car idles so smooth, and doesn't act like it looses power under throttle. BTW 98 gt@60k miles.
EDIT: also did my fuel pump.
9646gt said:
a vacumm gauge will not tell you if you have a leak..think about it.. vacumm dont care where it gets air from.. it will read the same amount of vacumm it's just sucking air from someplace other than thru the throtte body.. a gauge is usefull too test for base engine problems.. like a broken valve spring (will cause a fluttering vacuum) stuff like that..
well anyways thats not your problem here.. if you want too test for a vacuum leak.. use carb clean and spray it at the manifold and vac lines if you hit a leak the engine will rise in rpms.. and smooth out..
i dont belive a vac leak is your problem.. vac leaks will cause a crappy idle do too unmetered air entering the system.. not much of a factor at WOT..
plus if you had a vac leak you would have po171 (bank 1 system lean) and po174 (bank 2 system lean) codes..
those codes appear very quick if you had a vac leak..
stick too the ignition system and i think you will find your problem..
now i have a question for you.. when you hit the gas in 4th gear at low speeds did it buck/ jerk some.. did you feel like it was misfiring..
9646gt said:Well the TPS tested bad on volt meter test i did (voltage was going kinda crazy...AZ tested it with a sensor tester and said the same thing so I replaced it (before reading replies) and like you said even after reseting the computer its still acting up...i hate to sound dumb but what is a WDS? And how much would it cost a mechanic to do that? also They said at AZ the scan tool they have for OBD2 wont work with the motor running...I am so frustrated and broke that it isn't even funny at this point! And I dont really know of anyone that has a set of wires I can test with or coils...only 4.6 owners I know have like f150's and stuff...I have a friend that can get me some loaners but they wouldn't be for a stang ..he may can get parts from other 4.6 cars if anything is interchangeable...It's hard going from a problem free Toyota with almost 200,000 miles on it to this car thats 4 years newer and I instantly have problemslol
i told you not too replace that tps
in several years of being a EEC specialist tech for ford i have replaced 1 TPS.. 1 tps out of a whole boat load of cars.. a wds is a scan tool a very very good but slow scan tool.. it can do just about everything..
scan codes,programm processors,live data,active commands(this alows you too control outputs of modules), power balance tests,fuel economy test,relitive compression,evap system tests, igntion system test,fuel injector output tests, and a whole lot more...
it's a 10 thousand dollar scan tool.. thing is slow as **** but it is powerfull
BTW... i know i have said this a lot but i will say it again... do not let the guys at autozone diag your car.. they are not qualified.. as you can by now.. EEC diagnostics is not easy.. it takes a good deal of training and real world experience too get good at it.. so unless you like wasting money just get the info and bring it here..
hersheyman
New Member
Give this a try....take your intake tube off of the throttle body and spray some appropriate cleaner in there. Then get a clean rag and wipe up in there the best you can reach. Then do it all over again and immediately start up the car and go run it wide open for a couple of miles. That helped on my old 5.0 86 GT.
CanadaStang
New Member
MikeZ28 said:
The vacuum gauge will drift if he has a small intake leak or will read low if it's larger. He just bought the car and it was running crappy when he bought it[so who knows if the intakes been off or not] , so I'm thinking if he has a gauge he may as well check it for all the time it takes. I'm still not sure if it's a miss or not, which the vacuum gauge will also tell. Also keeping in mind he's not getting a code for cylinder missfire either. Not infering it's a vacuum leak, just thinking if he had a vacuum gauge it wouldn't hurt to use it. Any info at all is better than nothing.
The reason I went ahead and replaced that TPS was just to mainly avoid a future problem...if I get on it in 4th at a low speed it stumbles something horrible..I mean really bad...I cant clean the throttle body with out knowing what to use bc it says on it and in the manual it has a special anti build up coating inside that will be stripped by cleaners..I re did all the plug wires and got them more orderly and when I went to test drive it..it almost felt perfect but then again its rainging out so when I got on it the car was all over the place so I won't really know until I get it on dry pavement hopefully tmrw...as for the WDS i would have to call around bc I am not sure who around here would have a tester that expensive...hopefully I can replace the plug wires friday when I get payed if I can afford it..what lower cost but still good (not bosch lol) wires would you reccomend? The car has the blue ford racing wires on it now and I have heard they are complete crap but I dont know my self...once again I will keep you guys posted the best I can...
Chris
Chris
9646gt said:
yeah kind of hard too test your problem in the rain.. i was hoping the pcm would pick up the misfire right away ( it was a long shot) with out any tools too test what cyl is going out on you your going too have too just guess
it's either the wires or one of the coils.. i think the only thing you can do now.. is buy new wires and one coil.. put the wires on first.. if it's fixed return the coil.. if not... put the new coil pack on.. if it's not fixed reinstall the old coil pack.. and put the new one on the other side..
CanadaStang said:
the thing the vac gauge would help with is if a valve is sticking open.. vacumm would flutter around.. but i dont think thats his problem.. if it was it would drive liek crap at part throttle too..
Well I am getting ready to head to work in just a few and hopefully it is dry so I can post my results when I get there...if that fixed it I may actually have a bad wire...If it leans towards that I will try and replace asap..but I will let you guys know what I find once I get to work... 
Ok the verdict is in...after test drive here are the results...
moving all the plug wires around ad swapping those two made a GREAT deal of difference...she isn't hesitating near as much but there is still a few bad misses..so it looks like I need plug wires for sure...now the question is..what is a good quality but affordable (bout 50bux) plug wire? I know I don't need expensive wires with a pretty much stock motor and ignition system nor do I plan to boost it any time in the near future..so what do you guys reccomend and from where? Hope fully we will have this fixed in no time now..looks like mikez28 was right on the money..now I jsut hope the coil packs are good but they look nearly brand new from what I can tell
will try to get an under the hood pic this weekend..Thanks again and let me know what you think! 
moving all the plug wires around ad swapping those two made a GREAT deal of difference...she isn't hesitating near as much but there is still a few bad misses..so it looks like I need plug wires for sure...now the question is..what is a good quality but affordable (bout 50bux) plug wire? I know I don't need expensive wires with a pretty much stock motor and ignition system nor do I plan to boost it any time in the near future..so what do you guys reccomend and from where? Hope fully we will have this fixed in no time now..looks like mikez28 was right on the money..now I jsut hope the coil packs are good but they look nearly brand new from what I can tell
will try to get an under the hood pic this weekend..Thanks again and let me know what you think!
CanadaStang
New Member
Just get the stock OEM replacement wires from Ford.9646gt said:Ok the verdict is in...after test drive here are the results...
moving all the plug wires around ad swapping those two made a GREAT deal of difference...she isn't hesitating near as much but there is still a few bad misses..so it looks like I need plug wires for sure...now the question is..what is a good quality but affordable (bout 50bux) plug wire? I know I don't need expensive wires with a pretty much stock motor and ignition system nor do I plan to boost it any time in the near future..so what do you guys reccomend and from where? Hope fully we will have this fixed in no time now..looks like mikez28 was right on the money..now I jsut hope the coil packs are good but they look nearly brand new from what I can tell
CanadaStang
New Member
9646gt said:
Just give your local Ford dealer a call and ask how much wires are for your car. You may find cheaper wires from the aftermarket but go with the Ford factory wires, you don't want to end up with 2 sets of crappy wires.
CanadaStang said:
I have never seen a set of OEM wires worth 106 dollars...I think I will have to test my luck with a cheaper set...even if they last me only 20k or so that gives me plenty of time to find a better paying job...106 bucks ...right I can get nice aftermarket wires for that lolI have already seen with the ford Racing wires that are on her now how they hold up so I think afermarket will be better..
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