Mine blew up on the street on drag radials. So, I guess that's my best answer. I upgraded. So, I never really looked further into how much of a launch the T5s can take without issue.
Fox Can I Run A Dr With My Stock T5?
- Thread starter PakstinN
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That's a totally valid point. I do see more stuff break on slicks and cheater slicks than drag radials though. Slicks can definitely snap a stock axle. I have yet to see a stock axle break on DRs. I'd break a transmission every day of the week and twice on Sunday over a broken axle.
Kurt
I like that plan. Get some practice in on some DRs, and then go the next step. There is no replacement for practice. I once had a very wise race instructor tell me "If you have the choice between spending the money on you car, or on yourself, always spend it on yourself." That is to say, if you have to choose between buying a $300 set of tires, or a $300 track day, go for the track day. You aren't going to win any competitive races, so try and have some fun. Might want to budget in some forged axles before stepping up to the slicks as well.
Kurt
Miss a shift
Loose traction
Break the transmission
Break the rear axle
Beer can stuck under gas peddle
Run out of gas
Seriously, just get after it, keep good notes on conditions and changes made, practice, practice, practice, you'll get there
Loose traction
Break the transmission
Break the rear axle
Beer can stuck under gas peddle
Run out of gas
Seriously, just get after it, keep good notes on conditions and changes made, practice, practice, practice, you'll get there
LMAO! He's clearly a very analytical guy. I don't mind his questions, but that was a hilarious response.
Yeah, there are plenty of reasons you may not make it into the 13s. Now that you've asked that question, I'm wondering what is going on with your car/trap speeds. I think you should be seeing a good deal more than 98 mph with the mods you've mentioned.
Let me put it this way, there's really no reason you wouldn't break into the 13s with a simple bolt-on car on stickier tires.
The car I recently sold had a similar combo to yours: GT40X heads (Aluminum versions of the GT40 line of heads), E303 cam, GT40 intake, Long-tubes, & bolt-ons. It ran a 1.83 60' on 225/55/16 Goodyear Eagle GT all-season tires and went on to a 12.63 1/4 mile at nearly 108 mph.
Should you make it into the 13s on sticky tires? No question.
Yeah, there are plenty of reasons you may not make it into the 13s. Now that you've asked that question, I'm wondering what is going on with your car/trap speeds. I think you should be seeing a good deal more than 98 mph with the mods you've mentioned.
Let me put it this way, there's really no reason you wouldn't break into the 13s with a simple bolt-on car on stickier tires.
The car I recently sold had a similar combo to yours: GT40X heads (Aluminum versions of the GT40 line of heads), E303 cam, GT40 intake, Long-tubes, & bolt-ons. It ran a 1.83 60' on 225/55/16 Goodyear Eagle GT all-season tires and went on to a 12.63 1/4 mile at nearly 108 mph.
Should you make it into the 13s on sticky tires? No question.
sorry for all my questions gents! yes I am quite the analytical person. if something happens, I want to know how and why it happens and be able to replicate the results. that makes it scientific I guess you could say. and yes I was laughing my a** off about the beer can under the gas pedal! the only reason I can see it isn't hitting the mark is that the short block is WORN OUT. to the point its taking oil...so I'm thinking that maybe I just don't have the compression anymore to be creating the power to push it into the 13s, I ALSO am at altitude where I live. the day I was at the track the density altitude was reading just at 2000'. so I think once I get my new short block put in (literally just have to go pick it up and install it) and maybe if I can find a day at the track where the air is much better than normal, likely later on this fall it might happen...on top of the stickier tires I plan on running
I've got probably 100 passes on my car running dr's, again, holding ~4000rpm and slipping the clutch out... rather aggressively, because the first snap of the clutch has to be enough to get the nose up, then you feather it out the rest of the way while going to the floor with the gas... by the time the clutch is out you are looking for 2nd gear, it's about the same as dumping the clutch at ~3000rpms then riding it out. Drag radials either hook or spin... and when they spin they get no traction. When they hook, they bog the motor... hard on parts and not a good for 60' times, so, you're left to slip the clutch and dance the dance.
I've got well over 200 passes with MT ET Street bias launching at 5500-6500 with a clutch dump. They wrinkle up, roll over a couple times and I'm gone. They feel like you wind up a rubber band and then let it unravel.
All of that was with stock control arms, untouched tq boxes, stock 28spln axles, stock T5... car had a driveshaft loop, MAM, exhaust and gears (3.73's, then 4.10's). Let it spin a little on launch, or slip the clutch a little, and give a slight lift between shifts... I say slight... I would scratch the slicks on every shift, every run.... so It was not an in the rug shift but it sure as heck wasn't granny either. Again, stock motor, stock suspension and full weight, car went 13.0's - 12.9's at 103-104 so it surely wasn't being babied down the track. Takes a bit of a flogging to go 104 with 232hp in a 3200lb car.
With a decent launch and 98mph... 13.7's or better should be attainable... at least if I recall, when mine was running 97-98 I think it was running 13.6's-13.7's... and around here 2000' d/a is a good day.
I've got well over 200 passes with MT ET Street bias launching at 5500-6500 with a clutch dump. They wrinkle up, roll over a couple times and I'm gone. They feel like you wind up a rubber band and then let it unravel.
All of that was with stock control arms, untouched tq boxes, stock 28spln axles, stock T5... car had a driveshaft loop, MAM, exhaust and gears (3.73's, then 4.10's). Let it spin a little on launch, or slip the clutch a little, and give a slight lift between shifts... I say slight... I would scratch the slicks on every shift, every run.... so It was not an in the rug shift but it sure as heck wasn't granny either. Again, stock motor, stock suspension and full weight, car went 13.0's - 12.9's at 103-104 so it surely wasn't being babied down the track. Takes a bit of a flogging to go 104 with 232hp in a 3200lb car.
With a decent launch and 98mph... 13.7's or better should be attainable... at least if I recall, when mine was running 97-98 I think it was running 13.6's-13.7's... and around here 2000' d/a is a good day.
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That's a great explanation, bud. Slipping the clutch and feathering the throttle is how I've always driven my cars on radials. I'm about to change it up and move to bias ply slicks and clutch dumping. So, I'm looking forward to the adjustment.
Yes. However, you have little choice with radials. You either bog, spin, or slip the clutch. Plus, slipping it greatly reduces the shock to the drivetrain.
You just need more laps on the car. With the current combo it will run in the 13's. Every car responds a little differently, but your biggest hurdle to getting a 13 is yourself. You need a driver mod before you need more tire.
In theory yes... my stock one was still going strong with ~50k miles on it and ~100 clutch slipping passes at the track... ran 3.73's then.
Swapped the clutch out not too long after I went to bias tires and 4.10's... no longer needed something that was easy to slip and decided to go to a more rugged deal. hind sight, I probably should have kept it for some of that slip... oh well, live and learn.
Bullitt,
I will agree that seat time is invaluable. Having said that running a 13.99 at 97-98mph is going to be tough without a sub 2.0 60' and power shifting... and sub 2.0's are not easy or easily repeatable with a street radial on test and tune night with your everyday "stock" suspensioned Fox. I would think it should trap higher than what it is, so, maybe he's not got his shift points dialed in... if there is some mph there, 13.9's are attainable with those 2.0x and super low 2.1x 60's. I recall rather well, back in the day, needing high 99.x-100.0 mph to run 13.9's with 2.0x 60's.
My recipe goes something like this. On the burnout box I do a really good burnout (found that my longer burnout seemed to "tack up" my tires better). Launch at the tree right around the 2500 rpm mark and feather the throttle all the way through first due to having no traction (launching a manual car is an art as we all know..I also know I'm shaving 2-3 tenths off every time I go..I'm not new per say to driving my car as a manual. Been doing it and beating it like a rented mule since I did the swap so I feel like my shifting is at least respectable..probably as good as it'll get without powershifting) then grab gears right around 5500 rpm (cam seems to really make it level off at about that rpm) second gear sees some traction but it still spins a little if I grab it fast enough. She chirps third as well but for the most part she hooks well in third. By the end of the 1/4 I'm at the very top of fourth..I've raced a lot in Mexico but the track is a whole different ball game
My recipe goes something like this. On the burnout box I do a really good burnout (found that my longer burnout seemed to "tack up" my tires better). Launch at the tree right around the 2500 rpm mark and feather the throttle all the way through first due to having no traction (launching a manual car is an art as we all know..I also know I'm shaving 2-3 tenths off every time I go..I'm not new per say to driving my car as a manual. Been doing it and beating it like a rented mule since I did the swap so I feel like my shifting is at least respectable..probably as good as it'll get without powershifting) then grab gears right around 5500 rpm (cam seems to really make it level off at about that rpm) second gear sees some traction but it still spins a little if I grab it fast enough. She chirps third as well but for the most part she hooks well in third. By the end of the 1/4 I'm at the very top of fourth..I've raced a lot in Mexico but the track is a whole different ball game
Looking at my small collection of tomeslips my best reaction was a .0872 (also got this my first ever trip to the track
My best mph was 98.94
My best 60' time was 2.1740
My best et was 14.2921
Best short time and et (not surprisingly) were both on the same slip
My best mph was 98.94
My best 60' time was 2.1740
My best et was 14.2921
Best short time and et (not surprisingly) were both on the same slip
I do not believe in doing a burnout with normal street radials. I believe your 60' suffers if you do more than a quick turn or two to clean them off. R-compounds are a different animal.
Agreed. I only pop the clutch on my nitto555 to spin them over then slip the clutch on the launch. I need alot more seat time, 2.1 best 60' 7.2et at 98mph in the 1/8.
Street tires don't tackup like slicks do.
Street tires don't tackup like slicks do.
One should be able to coax sub 2.0 sec 60 foot with stock worn out Goodyear Eagles that the car was born with. Finnese is key. Many a time I have got a near stock 88-93 5.0 to run sub 14's with a 1.8ish 60 foot with stock tires. The key is finding what the car wants. The OP's car will easily go sub 14's if he puts some laps on the car and find what it wants. Doing the same thing over and over again exactly the same teaches you nothing.
