Can I use my stock Lifters - 347 build

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I guess who knows how the guy drove my car before, engine is going through a total rebuild so I guess the 125 replacement would work.. my car has about 180 000 k on it, my way of thinking could be off, but I am inclined to think if I am going to spend 125 I might aswell spend 250 to get the better part... just since I put 1000 into the stroker kit, 275 into the flywheel fidanza aluminum.. and will be spending another 1500 for heads, 300 for timing and cam, and 230 for balancer, oh and 700 for intake, etc. etc.. starts to get pricey! But I'd rather do it once, then baby it... no doubt I will drive it... lol.. but I want the car to last... one thing is the car is a vert.. so I need to get those subframes!!!
 
Oh and Fast63, sorry just saw your post on the other post now, I kinda depend on you guys too much, just getting to that point where I need to get some more stuff for the machine shop! I appreciate it!!!!! I am excited to get to the point where I am doing the rest myself, eg. intake and stuff... then I can take my time to decide... he just got the stroker kit last week, so that will give him some work... but I want to get the rest of the parts there.. I decided to have him build the major parts... stroker kit, flywheel, balancer, timing, cam, heads, rockers, including balancing, etc. Then I can pick it up and finish the build, water pump, intake, injectors, the basic stuff, I also am converting the 88 speed density to mass air in the process and am going to be tuning with the tweecer rt.. I believe I can have the ecu tuned for the major changes prior to even starting it up.. eg. tuned for larger injectors, cubic inch's.., mass air meter size, then I will be good to go! I also am really interested in tuning for emissions testing, "the special setting" on the tweecer.. lol
 
haha, sounds like you and your engine builder have your work cut out for you.

But yeah, if you have the coin, by all means get better lifters. The stock replacement ones should work fine, but I am inclined to think there are better ones out there. Everything depends on the pocketbook.
 
The FRPP lifters are identical to the stock lifters, so if you decide to go that route, you could probably save yourself the $120, if your originals are in good shape. For peace of mind, I'd probably spend the money (I did), but it's not absolutely necessary.
 
You should replace the lifters anytime you replace the cam. I'm not saying you need to go out and get some fancy aftermarket lifters, just some stock replacements. After all would you rather have to take everything apart again to replace a camshaft because a lifter wore out one of the cam lobes or just spend a little more now and do it right the 1st time.
 
On a car that has a flat tappet cam I would agree that the lifters need to be changed whenever changing the cam since they do have a definite wear pattern. But with the roller lifters I have swapped cams and reused them several times. If there is damage to a roller, you have had problems with the lifters or they are high mileage than I would swap them out. It is pretty cheap insurance. I believe that Aliate X had a roller lifter go bad and chew up a cam at one point so you might want to pm him or do a search on his name.
 
There is no need to replace the lifters every time to replace the cam. Even the cam manufacturers say that you don't need to do that. Doesn't anyone read instructions anymore?
 
i have a 347 coming in about 4 weeks now from ford stroker and i went ahead and ordered some new lifters id hate to spend 2400 bucks on a engine to have to tear it down and redo it.
 
Would the linked bar lifters be the better lifters to use?

Absolutely.
I've been asked... have you ever heard an engine being built too good?

The issue with link bar style lifters are depending on the manufacturer has an impact on quality, because of their cost you'd want to determine if you want to stay hydraulic or go solid.