Can someone help me out with my 1994 Mustang GT

Discussion in '1994 - 1995 Specific Tech' started by enycezc3m, Apr 26, 2008.

  1. somebody help me!!!!!!!!!!!

    I recently bought a 1994 Mustang Gt and it does not go as fast as it should be going. i had people telling me online that i should get my msd wires redone and change my spark plugs... and it might give most of horse power back. i need someone to help me install the wires and get this stang in shape and show them what stangs are about but for now all i can do is rev my engine and get them nervous lol... Some one please HELPPPP
  2. Moved to 94-95 Tech.
  3. u will not see a power gain from spark plug wires.....UNLESS they are in bad condition, i would start with a full tune up. plugs, wires, cap, rotor, fuel filter, and CLEAN UR MAF....are u sure ur down on power, im mean there cars are not that fast stock, if everything is tuned up and mechanically sound, ur first mod should be a set of gears for the rear end, it will wake it up alot
  4. I've never cleaned my MAF... maybe I should take a look at it
  5. lot of times people that use k&N air filters will get oil on the sensor, it can cause detonation (pinging) and power loss, many people are amazed on how better there cars run after cleaning it,,,

    but I'm not saying that its a magical cure for all problems lol
  6. Like said before, clean your MAF sensor wires. My car ran like crap within a few weeks after I re-oiled my K&N that I had at the time. It is a gradual decrease in power untill it gets really really bad! After I cleaned the MAF, my car felt like it gained back 30 hp. Also do a tune up if you didn't already. Get good copper plugs like Autolites or Motorcraft. Performance wires aren't neccessary if you have a stock ignition, but go with good oem replacements (ex. Motorcraft, Borg Warner, Bosch). I ran Ford Racing 9mm wires for a while, but they are made so darn long that they overlap and touch each other. I started to get arching between wires with them and my car would break up a bit under load.

    I hope this helps a little

    Good luck:nice:
  7. what is the best way to clean the maf? spray throttle body or carb cleaner onto a cloth and wipe out the inside or?
  8. When you clean the MAF, you're actually cleaning the wires on the sensor. Remove the sensor and use rubbing alcohol on a q-tip to gently clean the wires. Be careful, you can break the wires if you use too much pressure. The q-tip will show black residue if the wires are dirty, no pressure needed.
  9. thanks :nice:

    -sorry for the hijack-
  10. I just used rubbing alchohol on mine. It's great because it isn't too harsh and it dries quickly. You will either need a special torx bit to remove the MAF sensor from the housing or you can chissle out the middle peg and use a regular torx bit like I did. Be careful if you chose option 2!
  11. <marquee>WELCOME TO STANGNET!!</marquee>


    Also, anytime you get an older used car, you should get the basic tune-up stuff anyway. Go ahead and get that done along with what these guys say. Im glad youre here, because I have someone to "dwell" down at the bottom with me in the "tech-savvy" dept :lol: :rlaugh:

    I still cant do a whole lot myself, but What I CAN do is mainly attributed to posting and learning from my friends on here!!

    GOOD LUCK!!!

  12. a stock stang doesnt really put u in the seat...

    how slow is it?
  13. I had pretty much the same problem. When i got my car it was crazy slow. My sisters 98 v6 mustang could beat me easily. My timing was off 20 degrees :nonono:

    Surprised that was not mentioned yet, but I could have missed it.

    Check your timing with the spout disconnected (something I had to learn the hard way, paying a shop to unplug the spout)
  14. WHAT THE HECK HAPPENED TO MY POST ABOVE...?? I mentioned that, along with the mandatory tune up after a new purchase.

    I had also put:

    <marquee>WELCOME TO STANGNET!!</marquee>
  15. Not to jack this thread...but

    I had the same problem with my 95 cobra today. Did the cap, rotor, autolite plugs to .054", (kept the FMS 9mm wires since they looked good), fuel filter, 180 thermostat, H balancer, and 12 degrees of timing....and the car was a dog!!! I could barely spin the tires in 1st!!!! I was so upset. I checked for vaccum leaks, checked all the plug wires, etc. Then I came across this thread and read the MAF cleaning tutorial. Now the car spins them halfway through 2nd and chips 3rd HARD!!!!

    Thanks a ton for the info!!!!

    BTW, I set the timing to 12 degrees with the SPOUT connected. Do I need to retime the car with the spout disconnected? I didn't understand that part of the thread. Thanks.

  16. Carl, with the timing at 12* SPOUT in, the car should run like a turd (and your idle will be real low). Reset it with the SPOUT out. You should be adding about 10-15* of base timing in doing this.

    The one caveat is that if your balancer's outer ring spun, your whole point of reference will be off.

    Here's an article on setting timing.

    Good luck.
  17. you must remove the SPOUT to set base timing.with the SPOUT removed,it prevents the electronic ignition from advancing the timing while you try to set it.
    dont forget to reinstall the SPOUT after you adjust the base timing,then check timing again to ensure it is advancing.
  18. Timing has to be set with the spout out.
  19. Well, the car runs pretty good as far as I can tell. It pulls a LOT stronger then it did before the MAF cleaning. I will try to reset the timing with the spout disconnected and see. It idles pretty smooth at 900rpm right now so maybe its ok.