Can someone tell me how to get my heat to work, detailed pics inside

WickedDropTop

New Member
Jul 21, 2004
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San Diego
I have no idea how or what lines to run to get the heat to work and its getting a little cold here in the mornings. The guy who had the car befor me, whatever he did I dont know and I am not familiar with the 5.0 so if someone could please identify what needs to be done it would be greatly appreciated.
This disconnected what does it do?
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Top view of the Water Pump
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Is this thing supposed to be plugged in somewhere for something?
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Missing all 4 lines into the fire wall, which are heat in/out and ac?
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This should probobly go somewhere
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you'll need to get heater tubes. they screw into the spot where your coolant temp sensor is...near the front runner on the passenger side of the intake manifold.
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you can see the heater tubes in this pic (just below the wiring harness) along the passenger side of the intake. the tubes connect to hoses that are connected the the heater core tubes sticking through the firewall. one of the heater hoses needs to have a restricter in it.
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heres some pics of the heater tubes installed on a stock intake:
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the bigger problem though is why the previous owner eliminated the heater...its likely that your heater core is leaking. its under the dash and a real PITA to get to.
 

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Chances are the heater core was leaking, which is probably why the previous owner bypassed it. Go ahead and plug in the lines but I'll bet you need to replace the core. It's located behind the dash, so you'll have to remove it, which includes dropping the steering column. Do a search, there' s plenty of threads on how to do this. Takes about 5 hours for the novice.
 
Yeah, I definetly dont have those steel heater lines going along the intake. So if I where to just find a complete set of those from someone, I could hook them in and give a try and that is all I am missing?
yeah. like i said though, make sure you get the appropriate heater hoses to connect the heater tubes to the heater core (the inlet and outlet coming out of the firewall). one of the hoses needs to have a restrictor in it or you will blow your heater core...if its not already blown. once you have everything hooked up, if you smell antifreeze when you crank the heat up, you know the heater core is shot.
 
hey i installed a remote heator core,got it from a step van,,you can get them also from rear compartment conversion vans,,,the core i got is pretty thick around four inches,,ran the hoses through the floor board,direct 110 house switch ,i like them those switches never melt,,,direct 12vcurrent from battery grounded it to the seat mounting bolt,,got it now in front of the passenger seat floor will move it to the backhatch area later,,,the hoses make nice hand warmers,,,,,i have to drive with the window down after a while,,the original core just didn't put out enough heat and they are sure not easy to change,,will return everything back to original in the spring
 
Check the carpet up under the dash area on the passenger side. A lot of times if a heater core goes bad it will leak coolant through the floor vent and onto the carpet. That might indicate to you that the core was indeed bad and that's why he bypassed it.
 
Remote heater core? Mighty interesting concept. I don't mean to hijack, but seeing as I'm in an almost identical situation - I have no heater pipe (mine rotted out and was leaking) and the heater core was already bypassed by the previous owner - this could possibly be a simple alternative. Got any pics of this setup? Where'd you locate it in the interior? And how do you get any air flow over it to flow through the rest of the car without it being in the heater box (unless it has its own fan)?

To the original poster: The heater pipe can be purchased new from places like 50resto.com, or you can take your chances with a junkyard piece. They're a booger to remove or install because you have to remove the upper intake manifold (or the throttle body and EGR spacer, at a minimum) to get at everything. Since mine was so rotted that it was falling apart, I was able to just unscrew the fitting from the intake manifold with a wrench and then just bend it up by hand until I could squeeze the thing out from underneath the upper plenum without removing it.

Removing the upper plenum isn't really too difficult a task, really, but it's a little daunting the first time because you have to remember where all your vacuum lines go and try not to snap any of the brittle plastic vacuum lines. Also, if your upper plenum's never been off before, or it's been a long time since then, the gasket it going to be a real pain to remove; you'll likely wind up having to stuff rags down all the intake port holes once you have the upper plenum off, and then carefully scrape off all of the old gasket material from the lower intake before you go reassembling all the new stuff.

The heater pipe is held down by one or two little 10mm (or was it 8mm?) bolts and the big fat fitting towards the front, which I'd strongly recommend treating the threads with some Teflon tape or liquid pipe thread sealant to prevent leaks (and so can get it off later, if necessary). The two ends of the rearmost part of the heater pipe go to/from the heater core; when you've purchased a new heater core and the hoses, you'll be able to figure out which one's which by the sizes and their location. (The other two lines you're seeing on the firewall are your A/C lines, which play no role with your car's heater.) As stated, a flow restrictor is also a very good thing to have when you're installing a new one; I've heard horror stories about guys spending all day installing a new heater core, only to blow out the new one in less than a week because there was too much pressure on the core (usually during high-RPM runs, I'd imagine).

Of course, the other alternative is to buy one of those electric heaters that you can wire in directly to your 12v system (no, not those tiny little worthless cheeseball ones that plug into your cigarette lighters, they don't do jack). That's something I'm looking into, myself, and they might be an easier solution ... albeit a more expensive one (they sell anywhere from $150 to $300), and I wouldn't recommend one at all unless you've already upgraded your alternator to a 130amp (3g) or higher unit to support the extra load. That, and I'm not sure how well they heat - the Mojave brand that Summit sells is rated at 15,000 btu, which sounds pretty good, but I dunno what an average normal heater core's btu would be to compare.
 
for example of units go to www.stepvanparts.com look in the heaters section,auxliary heaters,,sorry this pc can't send pics,,,,just get all new 5/8 hoses/elbow fittings,,,everything has to be new and secure,,,i know i have seen these in some vans at the local junk yard but i don't know if the cores are that thick,,havn't looked at one that good,,,ran one hose through the shock tower down to the rocker panel,the other hugging the front frame under the passender seat,just secure them well so they won't be near the exhaust and pavement,you need to bleed the air out by reving the engine at first and disconecting one hose for a minute or so ,,,and thats it ,,you don't need any special water pump,i just have it wired for high speed on the blower,
 
That remote heater seems like almost just as much work. I am beginning to think from the explanation that the lines have to be run with the intake off, that the dude just didnt put them on there when the Intake was changed and it didnt have anything to do with the heater core itself, but his laziness or forgetfullness. Anyway, thanks for the help everyone and does anyone have an answer for those plugs that are disconnected?
 
The top connectors look like the ones that goes to the canister purge solenoid down by the charcoal canister.

The connector in the third pic looks like it might be the one for the clutch cycling pressure switch for the A/C.
 
The top connectors look like the ones that go to the canister purge solenoid down by the charcoal canister.

The connector in the third pic looks like it might be the one for the clutch cycling pressure switch for the A/C.

yep first pic the connector is to canister purge solenoid. 3rd and 4th pic is the connector for the A/C accumulator