Car did pefect after intake mani. install...reset idle, now it sputters!

[brentwoodboy]

I have checked and double and triple hecked vacuum hoses, I'm good there. MAF is clean. I reset the idle a few nights ago. Question, do I reset the idle for 1000 rpm (park idle [AODE])? Or for 600 for Drive idle? Also, my car sputters and wont stay on long...timing issue? This all happened overnight. I drove it Sunday all day and night with ZERO probs, and rese the idle last night, now it sputters. Whats up?

 

[MadHandle8169]

You removed the spout connector when you changed your timing, right? Because if not you did nothing because the computer would readjust it.

 

[urban96]

how did u adjust ur idle?

 

[R.J.]

I have found this to be the best method of setting idle because it does not just rely on the idle screw and IAC so the computer can just change it back. It actually repositions the throttle plate and the IAC and computer learn this setting but can't change it. After a TFS H/C/I on my friends 94, it would not idle and we tried everything. This was the only thing that worked and the idle has not changed sence this process. Good luck and if you try it let me know how it works for you.

MECHANICAL IDLE SETTING

'94-'95

Begin with a cold vehicle. The idea here is to get the car to a firm cold idle with enough air bleed capacity left in the idle circuit for IAC adjustment.

The idle stop should be set first. Back out the idle stop screw, away from the bell crank arm, until about 1/2 turn past the point where it no longer makes contact (blade fully closed). Using a 0.010" feeler gauge, tighten until gauge just drags between screw and bell crank arm. Remove feeler gauge. Tighten screw exactly 1 1/2 turns. If the screw is very loose, put a drop of loc-tite or silicone on it, so it doesn't work out of adjustment.

Now remove the connector to the Idle Air Controller (IAC) just on the other side of the throttle body. Start the car and allow vehicle to warm for 2 minutes. Give a small "blip" to let it settle. If it is having a hard time staying running you may have to get an assistant until you can get to the front of the car. Now open or close the air bleed screw (CCW opens) next to the IAC until the car idles at 575 to 600 rpm. For guys with aftermarket cams and an EEC tuner, you might want to idle a bit more briskly, say 650 to 675.

Obviously, this rpm range is by what the car and driver wants...IE, no set idle speed, whatever works for YOU.

Turn off the car. Now count the number of turns clockwise to close on the idle air bleed screw. If it falls between 1/2 and 2, it's okay, now reverse it out the same number of turns. Log the number somewhere in case you need it for the future. Reconnect the IAC. You are done.

If the air bleed screw is above 2 turns, it's a good idea to tighten the idle stop screw another 1/2 turn, and then repeat the idle setting. If it is below 1/2 turn, then loosen the idle stop screw by 1/4 to 1/2 a turn, and repeat the idle setting. Be sure to put another drop of silicone RTV on the stop screw if it was disturbed. Reconnect the IAC. You are done.

 

[R.J.]

Did it work?!

 

[brentwoodboy]

Nope. Car is messed up, hasnt started in 4 days it will rev up at the start then just sputter and die.

 

[R.J.]

If it won't even start and you think it might be a timing/idle problem, I would find TDC and reinstall your dist. If you get the timing close enough initially, it will run then you can fine tune the timing and set the idle mechanicaly.

 

[jonesy]

did you guys change injectors aswell?. my 94 vert when I did my mods threw a fit when I first started it, I had to to get a chip burned before mine would rum right.

 

[final5-0]

I have found this to be the best method of setting idle because it does not just rely on the idle screw and IAC so the computer can just change it back. It actually repositions the throttle plate and the IAC and computer learn this setting but can't change it. After a TFS H/C/I on my friends 94, it would not idle and we tried everything. This was the only thing that worked and the idle has not changed sence this process. Good luck and if you try it let me know how it works for you.

MECHANICAL IDLE SETTING

'94-'95

Begin with a cold vehicle. The idea here is to get the car to a firm cold idle with enough air bleed capacity left in the idle circuit for IAC adjustment.

The idle stop should be set first. Back out the idle stop screw, away from the bell crank arm, until about 1/2 turn past the point where it no longer makes contact (blade fully closed). Using a 0.010" feeler gauge, tighten until gauge just drags between screw and bell crank arm. Remove feeler gauge. Tighten screw exactly 1 1/2 turns. If the screw is very loose, put a drop of loc-tite or silicone on it, so it doesn't work out of adjustment.

Now remove the connector to the Idle Air Controller (IAC) just on the other side of the throttle body. Start the car and allow vehicle to warm for 2 minutes. Give a small "blip" to let it settle. If it is having a hard time staying running you may have to get an assistant until you can get to the front of the car. Now open or close the air bleed screw (CCW opens) next to the IAC until the car idles at 575 to 600 rpm. For guys with aftermarket cams and an EEC tuner, you might want to idle a bit more briskly, say 650 to 675.

Obviously, this rpm range is by what the car and driver wants...IE, no set idle speed, whatever works for YOU.

Turn off the car. Now count the number of turns clockwise to close on the idle air bleed screw. If it falls between 1/2 and 2, it's okay, now reverse it out the same number of turns. Log the number somewhere in case you need it for the future. Reconnect the IAC. You are done.

If the air bleed screw is above 2 turns, it's a good idea to tighten the idle stop screw another 1/2 turn, and then repeat the idle setting. If it is below 1/2 turn, then loosen the idle stop screw by 1/4 to 1/2 a turn, and repeat the idle setting. Be sure to put another drop of silicone RTV on the stop screw if it was disturbed. Reconnect the IAC. You are done.

I've seen this procedure before and I believe its correct but what if........

you've got a tb with no bleed screw (only the stock & FRPP 65 have em from what I've been told)

OR

your combo has 30's or larger and cam is pretty aggressive

Later
Grady