Cobra1894
New Member
It is located on the shaft of the distributor, Its a rectangular box. I would like to know if it can be checked,. if so how.
Car GODS enter here
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I went to Autozone and got the codes pulled. He said there was a code 23, 54, and 84. The code 23 he said was TPS sensor, I think I've got that fixed now. The code 54 he said was the Air Charge Temperature sensor, I replaced and I replaced that. He said that there didn't show a code 84 in the computer, is there such a code or did he mess up? After I fixed the code 23 and 54, idle quality was very much improved and so was throttle response so I figured that may have fixed my problem but to much surprise it didn't. I think I've checked all the grounds and the vacuum lines, but I'm not sure if I got all the grounds can anybody give me a list.
Does anybody no if the timing advance pills go bad? How can you check if your MSD ignition is working correctly?
Does anybody no if the timing advance pills go bad? How can you check if your MSD ignition is working correctly?
DirtyD916
Active Member
replace al lof your relays and sensors then take it to a shop to have them tested. Any probles will show up and tell you what is needed to fix them.
I would cut down on your losses and just convert to MAF, which is the most probably cause of the cutting out problem. I mean it's just as simple as that, no point in lookin for other problems when you have the most obvious one sittin right in front of ya! Do a search on the conversion, you'll find all the answers and the cheapest way to do it. That is my solution.
SD is the not the cause of your problems, the only difference would be your air/fuel ratios. Seeing as how your car is fine on the top end and not the bottom, I have very little reason to believe SD would have anything to do with it. If it were the cause you would probably be pig rich on the bottom end and you could smell/see the fuel. otherwise you would be lean, and up top, yo uwould be really lean and it would be pinging like mad. which you aren't complaining about, and your codes didn't pull up the o2 lean/rich codes so we can pretty much throw the SD theroies out the window.
Did you ever have your TFI checked out or replaced? I had very similar problems and it turned out to be bad tfi, bad coil, and bad wires. I'm really convinced your problems are ignition related.
CODE: 84 (KOEO) - EVR Circuit Failure
Engine: 5.0L
Year: 86-93
Description:
EGR Vacuum Regulator (EVR) circuit failure
Might as well get this taken care of too... I don't know if this could cause a vaccume leak or not, but i wouldn't be surprised if it were possible. And if this is throwing your egr system way out of whack, your car may be trying to run on way too much exhaust and giving you shoddy combustion.
Did you ever have your TFI checked out or replaced? I had very similar problems and it turned out to be bad tfi, bad coil, and bad wires. I'm really convinced your problems are ignition related.
CODE: 84 (KOEO) - EVR Circuit Failure
Engine: 5.0L
Year: 86-93
Description:
EGR Vacuum Regulator (EVR) circuit failure
Might as well get this taken care of too... I don't know if this could cause a vaccume leak or not, but i wouldn't be surprised if it were possible. And if this is throwing your egr system way out of whack, your car may be trying to run on way too much exhaust and giving you shoddy combustion.
The EGR vacuum regulator is located on the rear of the passenger side strut mounting along with the 2 solenoids for the smog pump controls. It is the larger of the three vacuum control assemblies mounted in that area.
I had the TFI module checked at Autozone they did say it was bad, I got a new one and it didn't fix my problem. I went and started my car last night in the dark to see if there was any arcing in my wires. If you touch the spark plug wires you can see the spark inside the wires where you are touching them. You can also see spark where either A) the spark plug boots goes onto the spark plug or B) where the spark plug goes into the block. You can also see the coil sparking inside. Is any of this normal? The boggin and hesitation seem to be worse whenever I hook my MSD up, and get better when I unhook it. I bought the unit used what are all the wires you need to hook up to it, I thought I had them hooked up right, but maybe not.
Thanks
Casey
Thanks
Casey
bgjohnson
Founding Member
how new are your wires, is it actually sparking or is it just glowing when you touch it, the reason I ask is because when you put the MSD back on it might be producing too much power for you plugs to hold and could be grounding it self out even more then stock voltage, I would upgrade the wires to 9mm taylors to be sure it isn't arching, or you could check you plugs for cracking if the porcelain is cracked it will make the car run horrible and you might even hear a ticking from arching, somtimes you can't even see the crack in the spark plug, so if you've ever dropped one or just want to replace plugs do it. sorry if you already posted it up that you replaced all those things, oh and when you touch the wire, it's just the electrons movin around that's what makes it glow, if you can't feel it shock you your fine, but if your runnin stock wires upgrade them, same with plugs if it's been a while
