Car shuts down under load?

billy86gt

New Member
May 4, 2009
5
0
0
Maryland
I just got my car back to the track about 3 weeks ago.Everything seemed to be going good at the eighth mile track a lil poping and cracking but i though it was just old fuel.Then i went to th 1/4 mile the first time i left when i got to 4th gear the car shut down for about 2 sec and fired back up.2-passes later 3rd gear same thing.Last weeked 2nd gear shut down and would not fire back up until i got off the track. But if i fire it up and rev the motor up sitting still nothing happens i have pulled on the wiring harness all over the place and i can not get it to shut off.When it was dyno tuned the had a problem with the c&l mass air meter we swapped it with a pro-m and it fixed it.I have the msd 6al box, pro bilet distibutor, and blaster tfi coil.I am clueless where to look i have had people tell me the box, the distributor and the tach. Has anyone ever had this problem before or has any insight of where to start or a troubleshooting procees to get me pointed in the right direction to eliminate one part at a time.And i have made full passes in between the car shutting down.Thanks for everything ,
billy
:shrug:
 
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Dumping The computer Diagnostic codes on 86-95 Mustangs

Revised 24-Apr-2009 to add warning to turn off A/C and place transmission in Neutral and dumping Engine Running codes.

Dump the codes and see what the computer says is wrong…Codes may be present in the computer even if the Check Engine light isn’t on.

Here's the way to dump the computer codes with only a jumper wire or paper clip and the check engine light, or test light or voltmeter. I’ve used it for years, and it works great. You watch the flashing test lamp or Check Engine Light and count the flashes.

Be sure to turn off the A/C, and put the transmission in neutral when dumping the codes. Fail to do this and you will generate a code 67 and not be able to dump the Engine Running codes.

Dumping the Engine Running codes: The procedure is the same, you start the engine with the test jumper in place. Be sure the A/C is off and the transmission is in neutral. You'll get an 11, then a 4 and the engine will speed up to do the EGR test. After the engine speed decreases back to idle, it will dump the engine running codes.

Here's the link to dump the computer codes with only a jumper wire or paper clip and the check engine light, or test light or voltmeter. I’ve used it for years, and it works great. You watch the flashing test lamp or Check Engine Light and count the flashes.

See Troublcodes.net Trouble Codes OBD & OBD2 Trouble Codes and Technical info & Tool Store. By BAT Auto Technical

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If your car is an 86-88 stang, you'll have to use the test lamp or voltmeter method. There is no functional check engine light on the 86-88's except possibly the Cali Mass Air cars.

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The STI has a gray connector shell and a white/red wire. It comes from the same bundle of wires as the self test connector.

89 through 95 cars have a working Check Engine light. Watch it instead of using a test lamp.

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The STI has a gray connector shell and a white/red wire. It comes from the same bundle of wires as the self test connector.


WARNING!!! There is a single dark brown connector with a black/orange wire. It is the 12 volt power to the under the hood light. Do not jumper it to the computer test connector. If you do, you will damage the computer.

What to expect:
You should get a code 11 (two single flashes in succession). This says that the computer's internal workings are OK, and that the wiring to put the computer into diagnostic mode is good. No code 11 and you have some wiring problems.

Codes have different answers if the engine is running from the answers that it has when the engine isn't running. It helps a lot to know if you had the engine running when you ran the test.

Trouble codes are either 2 digit or 3 digit, there are no cars that use both 2 digit codes and 3 digit codes.

Alternate methods:
For those who are intimidated by all the wires & connections, see Actron® for what a typical hand scanner looks like. Normal retail price is about $30 or so at AutoZone or Wal-Mart.

Or for a nicer scanner see Equus - Digital Ford Code Reader (3145) – It has a 3 digit LCD display so that you don’t have to count flashes or beeps.. Cost is $30.