Car won't start (still). I can't deal with this. Make me an offer and it is yours.

fvike

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I've had problem getting my car started as well, with a lot of help from a couple of my friends, we found out that the newly installed tachometer was stealing all the power. We found out that by disconnecting the tach and try starting it with just the basics. Then using the voltmeter all over the place just like 57fairlane says.
It is what we did, and we found the source to the problem.
Disconnect anything new you've added since the last time the engine ran like normal, and add each component after turn.
 
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You still have not told me what you volts are at the coil?
I think that your problem is low voltage to the ign box,
from your descriptions it leads me there.
the newer elec ign systems need more than 10.5 to work properly.
With you battery location you may have paracitic loss in your power system.

You say there is spark, but is it hot enough to ignite the fuel?
Give it a spray of starting ether, if there is any spark it will kick.
Then we can help more.

PB
 

69 Capecod

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Aug 30, 2004
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65racecoupe

From what I read here you say you have spark and fuel. I read my manual and found the only thing in there says to check at this point is the amount of fuel the engine is getting. It wouldnt be to little fuel it would be too much fuel flooding the plugs. If this is the case try disconnecting the fuel line or fuel pump then turn it over see if she trys to start.


Have you checked the spark plugs after you attempted to start the car to check if the plugs are wet with gas. This would be a quick and easy check to see if any or too much fuel is getting to the plugs. if they are wet and you have spark then its probably flooding.
Like bnickel suggested.
I think you said you changed the fuel pump and you have like 14 or 15 psi (cant remember) but if that is the case I bet it is flooding put the old pump back on then try to start the car.
 

foghorn67

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dolfan87 said:
Isn't there ANY stangnet members in his area?

This problem has ME frustrated to the point where I am ready to fly to where he is and get the thing running!
I share your frustration.
I have been following this thead with interest. (or the last delated one)
i have car that is slow to crank, but mostly when hot. Last weekend a battery cable fried on the header.
i hope his is something simple like this. It has to be. only air, fuel, spark is needed.
 
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for what it's worth i had a '71 that was running and then just stopped like it ran out of gas. it turned out to that a gear in the distributor was worn ( i think that what it was, this was 20 years ago). but something inside the distributor was worn/broke- even though the cap still turned. i remember we did just about everything you did before taking it to a local shop and they finally diagnosed the problem. i do remember asking the guy how he figured that one out and he said it wasn't that uncommon of a problem.
 

foghorn67

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69 Capecod said:
65racecoupe

From what I read here you say you have spark and fuel. I read my manual and found the only thing in there says to check at this point is the amount of fuel the engine is getting. It wouldnt be to little fuel it would be too much fuel flooding the plugs. If this is the case try disconnecting the fuel line or fuel pump then turn it over see if she trys to start.


Have you checked the spark plugs after you attempted to start the car to check if the plugs are wet with gas. This would be a quick and easy check to see if any or too much fuel is getting to the plugs. if they are wet and you have spark then its probably flooding.
Like bnickel suggested.
I think you said you changed the fuel pump and you have like 14 or 15 psi (cant remember) but if that is the case I bet it is flooding put the old pump back on then try to start the car.
holy crap, I just read this part. you need a pressure regulator. Your old one was 3.5 psi, you replaced it. but you need a regulator with a strip pump like that.
 

YellowMach69

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Max Power said:
Also make sure your engine block is properly grounded to the chassis. That way you canb be sure the plugs are firing while IN the head.
What MAXPOWER says here happened to me i coundt get spark or a strong spark andi had to run a extra ground to the firewall from the intake manifold,thus car woundt fire, I think MAXPOWER might have gotten the fault because mine woundt start either with this problem
 

one2gamble

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1. Check grounding as others have said
2. Check tack, if its not hooked up correctly or the wires are lose the car will not start,ever.
3. Get a little container of fresh fuel and slowly poor it into the carb as someone cranks the motor.
4. If all these things dont work I would still have to assume its a timing issue or a valve adjustment issue of some sort.
 

67coupe351w

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69 Capecod said:
sorry you said 7 to 9 psi

anyways my book says 4.5 to 5.5 lbf/in2
dont know what that translates in to psi.
lbf/in2 = psi

Thast very strange your manual would have put it in those terms though. lbf is pounds of force..which is waht the average everyday person would think of pounds as anyway.
 

12sec67

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is it a roller 331? did you does you cam gear on the distributer gear made for the roller cam? if the right cam gear wasn't matched with the right type of cam, the cam gear could have been chewed up.

with the cap off the distributer turn over the engine and see if the rotor turns while cranking. if it does turn then thats not the problem.


what about the actual ignition( key part) maybe it has a short?

just thinking :shrug: ... good luck...
 

reenmachine

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Jun 27, 2004
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Do you have a locking gas cap? Sounds like some jealous assmunch dumped sugar in your tank or something. Unhook your fuel line, disconnect your fuel pump, and empty the carb. Once there is no trace of the old fuel, try to get it to kick over with starting fluid like others have suggested.

Pour some of the old fuel on the street and try to light it on fire.
 

66HertzClone

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Sugar will does not dissolve in gasoline. Try it yourself....... does not, will not happen, the oldest wife's tale there is.

Time to take a step back, take a deep breath, and start at the begining. An engine needs three things to run, fuel, spark, and compression. The trick is to get them all to happen at the right time. Take a day off and cool off, come back with a fresh perspective and start by checking for each of the three requirements. Then verify the timing is where it should be.

Bottom line, you have more than likely overlooked the obvious. Don't get ticked, we have all done it.
 

Route666

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I think the point of the sugar in the fuel is that it clogs filters, etc by not dissolving.

65racecoupe, I know you've got fuel pressure, but when we saw that pic of your trunk, someone (I think D.Hearne) said it looks like you have a kink in the fuel line going into the cabin. Could be a factor?
 

TOM B

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The MSD-6AL has two ignition spark systems. The first one is the crank spark, it is the cranking spark that MSD has there test on. The second is the run spark, it is this spark that the eng runs on. The MSD has 2 power wires. a small re a nd a larg red, chack for power here.check for proper ground. if running a ford dist wih the computer mounter on it, that has the two same spark systems as the msd.
 

meanroy

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TOM B said:
The MSD-6AL has two ignition spark systems. The first one is the crank spark, it is the cranking spark that MSD has there test on. The second is the run spark, it is this spark that the eng runs on. The MSD has 2 power wires. a small re a nd a larg red, chack for power here.check for proper ground. if running a ford dist wih the computer mounter on it, that has the two same spark systems as the msd.
He said he has spark at the plug, gas in the manifold.
So it probably not sugar or a dead fuel pump. Thinks he has the MSD sorted out, at least theres spark at the plug.

He needs to get back to us!

Yo! Did your buddy come over with the Timing Light?
Did it flash? (ie, juice to the plug)
 

meanroy

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Roddster67 said:
I was thinking it might be the ignition switch. Can you bypass the ignition switch and try to hotwire it to get it to start? :shrug:
Dude, if there is spark at the plug the ig sw has to be ok. Thats why the whole thing is so puzzling.
Roy
 

Roddster67

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Sorry, I'm in a drunken stupor at the moment.
What if it sparks when the key is in the "start" position, then as it springs back to the "on" position it somehow loses contact. Wouldn't that kill any signal to the ignition system?

I really need to not booze when I'm reading these forums.