Caster Camber Plates Needed - H&r Ss Springs

Discussion in '1979 - 1995 (Fox, SN95.0, & 2.3L) -General/Talk-' started by newfiestang, Jun 29, 2013.

  1. Guys,

    I will be lowering my 95GT with the H&R SS springs soon and was wondering if CC plates are a required. I know its recommented but will the alignment shop get my car aligned without them. Also, does it mater if I have my new wheels and tires installed before I get it aligned.

  2. Best to wear out your old tires. After the installation it is going to be way out of alignment and needs to be aligned as soon as you can. It is possible that they might be able to get it aligned after it is lowered without caster camber plates, but I have never seen it yet. I would budget the caster camber plates into the lowering job because you are probably going to need them. Buy a nice steel 3 bolt caster camber plate. The aluminium ones are questionable, the 4 bolts are overkill.

  3. Can you recommend a budget minded set.

  4. Swing by the Vendor's forum and see what they recommend. There should be some good deals.
  5. Maximum Motorsports and Griggs Racing make some nice ones. They are fairly popular and sometimes can be picked up used for a very good deal.
  6. I have these UPR billet CC plates on my '88vert and I love them! They look GREAT and have plenty of adjustability. My alignment shop guy had nothing but good things to say when I had the frontend aligned.

    I think I paid around $160 bucks.
    Sharad likes this.
  7. Well i didn't really want to get into anymore mone on this car at the moment. So the general feeling is that I cant get by without these for a while without wearing out my new tires. I wont be driving the car alot since its not my daily driver but I will probably put 100 or so Km's on it in a week just scooting around town. By the way just picked up these wheels

    There is a pic on that link of a car like mine except its a V6. I think they look pretty good, I like black wheels on red cars. I also just ordered a Flomaster cat back.

    Just for a little backgound info, my car is pretty much stock with the exception of 3.73 gears and King Cobra clutch. It only has about 60000KM's on it and its mint, original paint, tires, brakes, exhaust, etc......It has been stored for over 10 years with the exception of one day in 2007 when my oldest girl graduated from Kindergarten, took some pics of her in it and the plan is for her to drive it to her high school grad in 2017. I bought the car while living out west but moved back east in 1999 with the car but family and house took all the time and money until now. I am hoping to build this car to my original plans over the next year or so, starting out with the cosmetic stuff per this post.

    I used to read this forum all the time back when I bought the car in 95' and it was a busy place. Now it seems that its hard to get a response on some questions, I guess thats normal since these cars only ran for 2 years with the 5.0 and they are getting old.....cant believe it 18 years ago since I bought it. Anyway I hope the interest stays around for another few years until I get this thing done since where I live there is not to many places to get good quality performance work done thus I will probably be doing the most of it myself with alot of help from you guys. Anyway enough of that but it is good to have the bug back again, i'm getting excited.
  8. Well, if you dropped that much on wheels and tires another couple bills isn't going to hurt you. Don't [email protected]## it. If you lower your car, you should buy caster/camber plates. Your car sounds nice. And you sound like you have taken exceptional care of it. So do this right. You will be happier in the end. Trust me. And crank that caster all the way back ;)

    Wow, thanks for sharing. That V6 does look good with those wheels. Is your car that same color? Mine is Iris. I wish it were laser or rio. But it's growing on me.

    This is no Fox Mustang. There are probably ten times the number of Fox Body owners out there. And now they are all buying the S197's. So these 94-95's of ours is a rare breed. Be proud of that. Yeah, it may take a little longer to get a reply. But you've waited 18 years to start modding it. Be patient grasshopper. There are guys in this forum building some really really sweet rides. I assume your car is a 5.0? If so, that gives you a reason to sneak into the Fox 5.0 forums and snoop around. Our cars aren't so different. What is interesting is when I had my Fox I used to read about mods to take the SN95 stuff like the brakes and spindles and install them on the Fox.

    What are your overall plans for the car's suspension? Is this all you plan to do to that part of the car?
  9. are right I guess, another few bucks is no big deal. Half of the problem I think is the fact that it is so expensive and inconvenient getting stuff to Newfoundland. When I read on here about you guys poping out to your local shop and picking parts up it leaves me frustrated. Dont get me wrong.....I mean frustrated that I cant do the same. The selection of online stores in the US is crazy but getting these items to where I live can sometime add 20 to 30% to the price. For example, the wheels and tires I purchased yesterday from american muscle cost me another $578 with taxes and shipping but shipping is free in the lower 48 and when you look at Newfoundland on the map i'm actually not that far away from the north east states.

    And yes my car is a very nice laser red GT with every available option for 95. It has never been to the track and has only seen rain on a few ocassions where I got caught in it It has always been garage kept which has kept the paint in excellent condition. She's worth it for sure. By the way thanks for the advise. I will post pics of the lowered car with new tires and wheels once installed.

    As for the suspension plans, thats about it for now. Next will be the powertrain. I would like to buy a full kit like Trick Flow or some other brand that has everything in it, cam, heads, upper/lower intake, etc. Is this kit still available, I remember dreaming about that type of setup 18 years ago when i first bought the car.

    Anyway, below are a few not so good pics of her in her resting place for the last 10 years.

    Attached Files:

  10. Couldn't you have your stuff shipped somewhere in the states and go pick it up? Contact a UPS facility near you in the states and see if that is an option maybe? I have no idea really. That just seems awful high for shipping.

    I am not sure if kits like that are available or not. I am sure they are. But I am really amazed to see how small the aftermarket is for the 94-95 Mustangs. Fortunately the 5.0 has a decent supply of parts for it. I have never been a fan of the "one size fits all" top end kits. I like the Edelbrock and the Trick Flow intakes, but I like the AFR heads. I love the F303 cam from Ford Racing also. So I plan to mix and match different parts for my engine when I decide to tear into it. I would imagine, if you contact Trick Flow they would be more than happy to set you up with a complete kit. They still make their intakes and the TB adaptor for the 94-95. So you're still golden there if Trick Flow is your preference.

    That Stang is in awesome condition. The mirrors look brand new. Mine are all faded. I am very jealous! Sweeet ride ;)
  11. MM CC plates ordered.
  12. Good call. I am not sure if it is the norm, but I was told to go full positive caster when I did my '90. And I gotta say it handled like a little go-cart. It may wear the tires a little more, but it sure made it fun to drive. When you turn, the wheels lean into the corner a little more, giving you a tad more bite in hard cornering.

    Someone needs to design a fine adjustment screw on their CC plates so after you get the initial caster set you can fine tune it on the fly.
  13. Full forward on the Caster definately helps.

  14. You mean full back?

    Positioning the struts forward in the plates is negative caster.
    Backwards is positive. You want full positive caster so the struts should be slid all the way back.
  15. You position them full forward however that works out. It ends up being about 4 degrees of caster.

  16. Why would you want full negative caster?
  17. Now you made me pull out my alignment sheets. Putting the plates at the full forward setting gave me 4.0 degrees of positive caster on one side, and 3.87 degrees of positive caster on the other side.

  18. Ok, but even with the plates in the full forward position, the Caster is still positive. Look at your struts next time you have your wheels off. They are still pointing towards the back of the car.

  19. The plates don't slide forward and aft. The strut does.