Ccrm Help Pls

Discussion in 'SN95 4.6L Mustang Tech' started by Eleanor's Girl, Jul 10, 2012.

  1. Last time I was on here, I was jobless and down to my last $100 and my 98 GT was overheating and I needed to pinpoint the issue so I could still feed my belly. Anyway, I’m working now (yay) and ready to try to fix this thing. Originally, the fan was only kicking on when the AC was on max, now it won’t run at all. Here’s what I did back when the overheating first started:

    I changed the thermostat ( it was stuck closed)
    I changed the plug to the cooling fan (it was burned up pretty good)
    I changed the temp sending unit (just b/c it was cheap and may have been the cause)
    More recently, my friend had his mechanic come to my house and test my fuses, relays, wires, etc. and everything pointed to the fan being the culprit. I bought a brand new fan and installed it and still nothing. Although my friend's mechanic tested everything, I’m left to believe it’s the CCRM. It’s the only thing I haven’t messed with.
    So my question is this: Does anyone know how to replace/fix the CCRM? I’ve done searches on here and in general but can’t find anything that is detailed enough for me. I’m a visual learner and need pictures and step-by-step instructions or a really good video. Any suggestions?
    ALSO, can I just buy a CCRM from a junkyard off another GT or Cobra or something? Thanks
  2. Try this. Go to and enter the information on your part. module relay_1304480_-1&keyword=control module relay

    Select the part. Click on the compatibility tab. This will give you a list of all applications the part will fix.

    Honestly the most difficult part of replacing the CCRM is removing the right hand plastic fender liner to gain access.

    If you need detailed instructions try getting yourself a Ford service manual. PM if interested in getting a copy for yourself.
  3. Thanks for the info! I didn't know O'Reilly's carried it, when I went in store they said they didn't. Guess I should always check online first. I'll look into getting a better manual too. Right now I'm using the b&w Haynes manual.
  4. Another option, but pricier is this: find the part number off the CCRM on your car, go to Ebay Motors and type that number into the search box and it will list any CCRMs available. wmburns helped me with this a couple of weeks ago for my wife's car. (thanks, by the way!) I would have gone thru Oreilly too but they needed to send mine in to have it rebuilt and they told me it was a week turn around, which I couldn't do. I ended up buying one off Ebay for $149 + $7 shipping. And it was a brand new CCRM. Once installed my wife's stang is back to normal. I had called every junkyard in town and went to my local Ford dealer. Actually the reason I ended up going to Ebay was because my dealer didn't have one in stock. There price was $262 so i saved $100+ by going on line. Just a thought. Good luck.
  5. I just started looking at junkyards yesterday. I found one that has 13 96-98 mustangs but I need to call to see if they are GT's and still have the CCRMs. I also called 3 Ford dealers and couldnt believe that no one knew what the CCRM was! One person told me that they never heard of a CCRM and I must have been talking about the PCM. Finally, the 3rd dealership knew what I was talking about but the price was $260.
    I keep hearing how the hardest part is getting the inner liner out. Overall, how long should it take to replace this part?
  6. it only takes ten minutes to take off the tire and inner liner. the liner is held in with the plastic push fasteners and a couple of screws. just start at one end of the liner and locate the by one start taking them out and follow along the innerside of the liner locating the fasteners as you go. once they are all out you just push it in to clear the fender and bring the two ends together to pull it out of the wheel well. ccrm should be in plan sight in upper right of well and only has two bolts holding it to the fender and one holding the wiring harness to the ccrm itself.
    i ran into the same issue with people not knowing what it was. usually at the junkyards...the dealership guys would look till they found the part andsince i was at the dealership they turned the monitor so i could verify.
  7. Lol. Apparently not ones where people know what I'm talking about. I have the bad habit of just going in the store since its down the street instead of going on their website first. Im noticing that in-store Autozone and Oreilly's dont call it a Constant Control Relay Module which is why they said they didnt carry it even though I told them what it was for.
    Ahh well. I'm calling up the junkyard tomorrow and plan to get the part early next week if they have a car that has what I need. My next dilemma is figuring out where I'm going to do the install. I live in apartments and they'll tow or fine you if they catch you working on your car in the parking lot. Might have to see if I can make it to the empty lot down the road and do it there.

    I appreciate the advice you guys have given me. I'll post an update when I get the part.
  8. Ok, so I bought the part off CL and I unbolted the old one but Im having a hard time unplugging it from the harness. Keep in mind I dont have a jack or anything so I couldnt take my tire off. Instead I removed my BBK intake that goes into the fender and went in through there. Im able to use both hands but this thing is coming off. Whats the best way to pull it apart? I dont want to pry it off and damage the wires.
  9. Ok , figured out there was a 5mm screw holding them together. After that I every thing was cake.....except for the CCRM I just bought didnt fix the problem. The fan still wont kick on and on top of that the car started idling really low and almost died several times. So I put my old CCRM back on and threw in the towel. Looks like I'm parking my 'stang for awhile. Im tired of messin with it. Thinking I'll just save myself the time and wasted money and just take it to the nearest dealer so they can fix her. :bang:
  10. Too bad. I wonder how different this thread would have turned out if more testing had been done before falling into "parts changing mode".

    Was the fan tested before replacement? This could have saved the $$ replacing a good fan.

    Was the new fan confirmed to work on BOTH speeds?

    Are you POSITIVE that the correct CCRM for your applicaton was used? There is a difference between the V6 and V8 version. There is also slight differences in model years. Since this is a used part, do you know if the part works to begin with?

    Did you re-check the fuses after the CCRM replacement? There are tons of "always on" circuits so unless you disconnected the battery, it's possible to blow a fuse while working on the car.

    I have posted several threads on how to trouble shoot the CCRM. However it will require detailed electrical tests with a VOM meter. If done, this can rule in/out the CCRM. In addition, it could give clues as to were the real problem is.

    Good luck. Let us know what the dealer finds is the problem and how much it will set you back.

    OBTW, it's normal for the car to idle poorly after a battery disconnect. The PCM needs time to re-learn new idle trim settings.
  11. wmburns - Yeah I tested the fan, the wiring to the fan as well as wires to the CCRM. And the tests suggested it was the fan so I bought a new one. The CCRM I installed is the correct one. Its from a 2000 GT and matched up to my old one. I also disconnected the battery while replacing the CCRM and checked the fuses to make sure I didnt blow any. Now that I think about it, I didnt check the fuses that are inside the car on the drivers side so I need to do that. As for the car idling low, I've disconnected my battery plenty tiimes before when working on other things and its never done that. Or do you mean since I disconnected the CCRM it needs to re-learn idle settings?
    I might mess with her again in a few days. Just need to step back and try it again with a clear mind.
  12. i agree with wm...especially buying the part of CL. who knows if the part is even good to begin with. at least if you buy one new you know it's good. what did you end up paying for the one off CL? at least if it wasn't much you're not out a lot.
  13. I took the same risk as I would going to the junkyard. The guy I bought it from parted out his GT that only had 44k on it. Car accident. When I told him why I was buying it, he said I probably didn't need the CCRM and that I should look into the PCM. Anyway, I paid $60 for it so it wasnt too bad. I'm just glad I didnt pay $260 at Ford and it not fix the issue. So like I mentioned before Im gonna leave her alone for a few days or so and then mess with her again to double check fuses, wires, etc. Then if I still cant figure it out, I'll take it to Ford to get diagnosed and if its some outrageous issue thats too expensive then Im selling. This car is only worth about $2k and MAYBE $2.5k with it fixed. So we'll see.
  14. Reminder. The opening post asked "how do you replace the CCRM?". It did not ask how to trouble shoot a non functional fan or how to trouble shoot a bad CCRM.

    IMO, to trouble shoot a non-working fan, the 1st test is always to confirm that the fan works. This has been done.

    The next piece of information most ppl skip. That is "what does the PCM "think" is the motor's temperature". Knowing this piece of information will answer the question if the PCM is even calling for fan in the 1st place.

    This will set the direction of where to look next. IE a sensor/PCM problem or fan/fuse/CCRM problem.

    An ODB2 scanner can be rented from most auto parts stores to find this out.

    If you want to perform a basic functional test to "prove" the CCRM, ground the CCRM pin #17 (LG/P) and the high speed fan should run. The key does not have to be on for this test. Be careful when probing the CCRM as there are tons of always on circuits.

    Another test is to disconnect the ECT sensor. To protect the motor, the PCM should respond by running the fan constantly. The PCM ECT sensor has LG/R and GY/R wires.

    The Dash sensor has R/W and Y/R wires.

    OBTW, there is a difference between the dash sensor and the PCM ECT sensor. Some auto parts stores will say it's the same sensor but they are wrong.

    If the wrong sensor has been used this could account for the problem. OBTW, this will show up when the engine temperature is queried via the ODB2 scanner. If it is some way unreasonable value, that's your clue.