Changing throwout bearing

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The clutch doesn't need to be removed, but the tranny does. Once the tranny is out remove the clutch cable and pull the clutch fork out. Look at how the stock T-out bearing is positioned on the fork and remove it and re-install the new one. Look up in the bell at the clutch pivot ball too and make sure it isn't worn too bad. Slip the fork back over the pivot ball (put a LITTLE grease on the ball), and then CAREFULLY slide the tranny back in through the bearing. Its much easier to have an extra set of hands/eyes when doing this. Just make sure you don't knock the bearing off. Also its a good idea to put some grease on the bearing retainer where the T-out bearing slides.
 
Yea, I would think so. The last time I messed with the flywheel/clutch was on an 89 mazda 323. Although the two cars are day and night they should be very similar in that respect, and I had to take the flywheel/clutch off the mazda.
 
54k miles on the car. I'm assuming its the stock clutch...I would change that If I were you. Why go through the hassle of the TOB and not do the rest. Especially if you plan on modding. Get a good clutch while your in there. You dont wanna do all this and then have to do the clutch all over again in a few thousand miles.
 
Mine was chirping pretty bad also so i went ahead and changed the whole clutch set, and flywheel. THe hardest part is getting the tranny down, while your in there i would change the set and seal just to save yourself the hassle of doing it all again.
 
Yeah, the hard part is getting the transmission out. After that, it's a piece of cake! Just time consuming, that is all. Bell housing comes off easily. You need to remove the starter to get the bell housing out.

If you are going to replace the clutch, replace the flywheel of get the one you have turned (resurfaced). And also replace your rear main seal since the flywheel is out. Don't forget the pilot bearing ($10).

Oh, and here is a tip (problem I had). When you are all done, and ready to reinstall the transmission, slide the input shaft through the TOB, and push the trans in as much as you can. The trans should stop about 1/2 inch from being flush w/ the bell housing. DO NOT put the bolts in & tighten them down to get the transmission flush. Simply have someone use their foot and push the clutch release lever towards the front of the car. That will disengage the clutch, and the transmission will slide in flush to the bellhousing like butter, like butter baby!!
Scott
 
wow man i wish this post would of happened yesterday...just spent 2 hours wiggling the trans in...finally got it in though....but ya go ahead and replace the clutch while you have the tob out....thats what i did and i'm sure i'll be glad that i dont have to re-do it all.
 
Just a little heads up about replacing the TOB.... You will become a master at changing it out before you get rid of the car. I have almost 3k miles on mine and am on my 3rd TOB. It would a best seller if somebody could right a book on "Adjusting the TOB" and "This TOB will last the longest."


Paul
 
mo_dingo brought up a great point... DO NOT SUCK THE TRANNY IN WITH THE BOLTS!!! Unfortunately I'm speaking from experience as in my younger days when I didn't know heads from headers I did this and ended up knokcing out my pilot bearing, and in the process destroying 3 mainshafts (I think the input shaft was bent and that was the root cause of the bending of the mainshafts). ALso, call up Hanlon's or other such places and get a heavy duty T-out bearing. I messed around with cheaper units and had them all fail on me withing a short period of time.
 
Wow, some great advice here. I probably will replace the clutch while I'm in there. I was going to skip it if changing the TOB was a simpler procedure but it looks like it just makes sense to do the whole thing at once.

The car drives fine so I hate to mess with it but that chirping is driving me nuts!