CIGARETTE LIGHTER REPAIR

I'M HAVING A POWER POINT/CIGARETTE LIGHTER PROBLEM. NEITHER HAVE POWER. HAS ANYONE EVER ACTUALLY REPAIRED THEIR CIGARETTE LIGHTER/POWER POINT? AND IF SO CAN YOU PLEASE POST WHAT THE SOLUTION WAS. I HAVE BEEN TRYING TO FIGURE THIS OUT FOR THE LONGEST. THANKS IN ADVANCE GUYS!!!! :nice:
 
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I've rigged a generic parts store cigarette lighter in there before. It actually looked stock when it was done. So long as you are getting power to the wiring, that's what I would do.

Kurt
 
In the other thread you bumped and then did not reply to, you noted one receptacle being out of commission. Here was the reply for that:

If there are no coins inside the receptacles and you're sure the rest of the circuit is copacetic (the power seat wiring is not shorting out, etc), have you inspected the wiring in the back of the receptacles?

With a receptacle disconnected, do a resistance test between the two prongs. It should read infinite.



So now you note both receptacles are out of commision. I would disconnect all items on the circuit and reconnect the lighters, one at a time, and test their function. If ok, reconnect the other items (seat, etc) and see what blows the fuse.
 
pretty much the only way to figure out what is going on is to trace the wires. i bet you will find one wire that is disconnected or was cut.

does anything on that circuit have power?
exactly what does NOT have power?
does it have a stock radio?

alot of the time, the person who installed an aftermarket radio does it in a, well, less than professional way, and you can see issues as a result.

do you have a manual that has the wiring diagrams?
 
I've rigged a generic parts store cigarette lighter in there before. It actually looked stock when it was done. So long as you are getting power to the wiring, that's what I would do.

Kurt

Good idea. Ill keep this in mind. I'm looking for power for my cell phone chargers power inverter etc etc. Will this work for that as well?

Kurt I gotta say bro. Your post are always informative. You sir are a Mustang guru. :hail2:
 
pretty much the only way to figure out what is going on is to trace the wires. i bet you will find one wire that is disconnected or was cut.

does anything on that circuit have power?
exactly what does NOT have power?
does it have a stock radio?

alot of the time, the person who installed an aftermarket radio does it in a, well, less than professional way, and you can see issues as a result.

do you have a manual that has the wiring diagrams?

Thanks for the reply.
Everything is working my seat etc. Just the lighter and the extra power port are out. When I bought the car the original radio was there. When I upgraded I used a plug in harness no cutting. I do have the original manual as well as a Chilton. Ill look at the diagrams not sure ill be able to follow them.
 
Good idea. Ill keep this in mind. I'm looking for power for my cell phone chargers power inverter etc etc. Will this work for that as well?

Kurt I gotta say bro. Your post are always informative. You sir are a Mustang guru. :hail2:

Thanks for the compliment, but I think it's just that I've been doing this too long. The electrical socket is going to be more limited by the fuse, then the socket itself. I think it's like a 10amp fuse on there. Cell phone, GPS chargers, radar dedectors, etc use almost nothing, so it's not an issue. The power inverter might suck over 10amps though. Those things can use quite a bit of power. How big is your power inverter?

The autoparts store cigarette lighter will not hook up to your standard plug. I solder everything, but I'm not sure if you are set up to do that. It's a good idea to put a new disconnect plug in there, so that if you have to take out the shifter bezel, you don't have to cut those wires and reconnect them afterwards. You are going to want to find a generic cigarette lighter with 2 wires coming off of it. There is a little electrical plug in the towing section with either a red and black wire, or a red and white wire. It's usually $2 or $3. You can solder that inline with the factory wires to replace the factory plug. The cigarette lighter has a bezel on it to keep it from pushing through the plastic. If it doesn't have suitable clips on the back of it to keep it from pulling out, you can hold it in there by putting a hose clamp around it.

Kurt
 
Thanks for the compliment, but I think it's just that I've been doing this too long. The electrical socket is going to be more limited by the fuse, then the socket itself. I think it's like a 10amp fuse on there. Cell phone, GPS chargers, radar dedectors, etc use almost nothing, so it's not an issue. The power inverter might suck over 10amps though. Those things can use quite a bit of power. How big is your power inverter?

The autoparts store cigarette lighter will not hook up to your standard plug. I solder everything, but I'm not sure if you are set up to do that. It's a good idea to put a new disconnect plug in there, so that if you have to take out the shifter bezel, you don't have to cut those wires and reconnect them afterwards. You are going to want to find a generic cigarette lighter with 2 wires coming off of it. There is a little electrical plug in the towing section with either a red and black wire, or a red and white wire. It's usually $2 or $3. You can solder that inline with the factory wires to replace the factory plug. The cigarette lighter has a bezel on it to keep it from pushing through the plastic. If it doesn't have suitable clips on the back of it to keep it from pulling out, you can hold it in there by putting a hose clamp around it.

Kurt

I'm using a small 150 watt designed for the lighter plug power inverter.

Im going to trace the wires first. I want the original equipment of course. But if that doesnt work or gets too aggrivating. I am going to use your generic technique!!!!!! That is cool quick and easy. I thank you again.