Classic car resto. project

[Techno Duck]

I always had a thing for muscle cars, i originally planned on getting a classic mustang as a project about a year ago, but the idea never really fell through. This summer however i have almost 4 months off from school, i figure a great time to do a project car. I toyed with a fun track car like a Toyota AE86 Trueno or similar, but figure it would be alot more fun to get do a muscle car. It would be a nice change from my '87 Porsche 924S daily driver.

Just my first goal is too decide what would be a good platform to start with. Ive been considering first generation '67-69 Camaros, '68-70 Chevelles and of course, '66-70 Mustangs. I am leaning toward Mustangs, ive always had a thing for their looks, and i think they would be a little easier to get working on. What would be the best year to look at? Are their any significant things to look outfor when shopping around (aside from the obvious..rust, frame..etc). I defenetley do not want a convertable. For someone without a huge budget, what type of shape should i look out for one in..and what would you expect to pay on the N-East coast.

Doing work on the motor and basic body work is not really an issue. My father owns a garage with plenty of equipment that i can use. I have limited knowledge of working on engines extensivley short of the basics like changing oil, alternators, radiator hoses...etc. I do however have my father and his mechanic who are both very knowledgeable, my father especially with Mustangs as he rebuilt one years ago. I figure working on a classic American car can be NOWHERE nearly as difficult as working on my '87 Porsche. Never will you hear the words "Who the hell designed this thing" while changing the damn oil filter!

Here are just some basic resto questions from a newbie...

1 - Generally would one just rebuild the motor, or buy a crate motor. I dont want to go any larger than a 289 or a 302 (too keep myself out of trouble if you know what i mean ).

2 - Is it a better idea to go with a manual or automatic transmission on these cars? A good friend of mine has a '67 notchback Mustang with a 289, 3-speed manual. Ive driven it on a few occasions, real tough to work that clutch. I would be inclined to go with a manual, my 924S is a automatic and i hate the car for that.

3 - Are parts for these cars tough to find, and are they expensive? I know of MustangsUnlimited (my friend told me about this one). If its not as bad as my 924S ($400 for a waterpump!).

If you have anyother information you think would be usefull please let me know. Thanks.

 

[SuperDave]

The choice of year is higly subjective. A prefer the early cars but others favr the '67 an later for styling and the ability to accomodate a big block. Parts are very available (fortunately) and they are moderately priced. I suggest that you build a library of vendor catalogs (see the web). Ironically, the earlier cars GENERALLY have greater parts support than the later ones. (there were more manufactured)

Mustangs are a wonderful hobby but I suggest that, if you want to keep one NICE, it needs to be a "toy" and NOT a daily driver. Some will disagree. You should estimate the approximate investment you wish to make then at least double or triple it because most of us have found out that is the way things turn out in the vast majority of cases.

 

[DarkBuddha]

You've asked a lot in a short post... here's my take...

1) Do lots and lots of research and reading. Starting here is ok, but you can't expect to get comprehensive (or even trustworthy) answers to all of your questions here. Make sure you spend lots and lots of time reading magazines (Mustang Monthly, Mustang&Fords, Hemmings Mustang, etc.) and visit other folks websites that show the kind of effort, money, and pain that goes into bringing back one of these cars.

2) Which body style you choose will most likely be determined by your budget. Coupes (notchbacks) are typically half of what a comparable fastback/sportsroof costs. If you wanna know what to expect to pay, check eBay's completed auctions, especially for cars near you. Assuming you're on a budget, look for a good mostly rust free coupe.

3) Which year to get depends mostly on you taste, though certain years may have more safety equipment or better structure (like the '70-'73s). Whatever year you decide, don't be tempted by a 6 cyl if you ultimately want a V8... the cost and hassle of the 6 to 8 conversion can be worse than paying a bit more up front. But, you will pay more for a V8 car over a 6 cyl. Oh, and unless you plan to upgrade the brakes, try to buy a car with front discs installed... the original drums were ok performers, but discs are just plain better, and if you've ever driven a drum brake car in the rain, you know you don't want to have to ever again.

4) Finding parts is pretty easy, and prices for parts for most of these cars is pretty reasonable. Generally, prices are comparable among the years, but '65-'66 tend to be less expensive, and '69-'73s tend to be more expensive. Trust me, compared to your Porsche, these cars a downright cheap, and probably infinitely easier to work on... waterpump = less than $60 and 2 hours of work.

5) This shoulda been #1, but here it is: BUY THE BEST CAR YOU CAN AFFORD!!! Believe me, spending a bit more up front will often save you a ton later, especially when it comes to bodywork. You can save tons of cash buy someone's kinda-finished project, but be careful about buying a car in pieces, 'cause you may not know if all the pieces are there.

6) What to look for.... Rust, rust, rust. Look at the floorboards/torque boxes, engine bay/shocktowers, trunk, quarter panels, doors, rockers, subframes, rear spring mounts, radiator support, taillight panel, door jambs (espeically at the hinges), around the windshields, EVERYWHERE! These cars weren't designed, nor treated, to last 30+ years... They rust, and they rust a lot... like a damn Fiat, except not as fast.

Other stuff to look for... accident damage (especially in the subframes), suspension components, trim, etc. If its a project car or an old driver, just assume everything will need to be rebuilt...

7) Unless you start with a pretty complete and solid driver to begin with, don't expect to complete the project in 4 months. If the car needs a bit of everything, then expect to be at it a while. When I started my Mach, it needed absolutely everything, and I thought 12 months would be enough time. That was 3 years ago... Sure, I could've gotten it done in 12 months, but it would've taken more time and effort than I could afford.

8) Speaking of affording stuff, whatever you think a project will cost, expect to spend more, typically 2-3 times what you expect. This is simply the truth... Guys who do their own work suffer this as much as guys who farm everything out. This is a rule, so expect to play by it. And if you are so good/lucky as to cheat the rule, then jump up and down in glee, but otherwise, just resign yourself to it.

So, if you've set a budget of $5k and look at a car and say "I could do this car for $5k", expect that you'll probably end up spending $10k-$15K. So, if you don't think you can really afford that, start looking for a car that makes you say "I can do this car for $2500".


I hope this helps... good luck.

 

[XeonTux]

hmmm... as someone who recently got a stang, I don't like the sound of the buddha's #8 :o :o


techno duck, don't limit yourself to a 289 or 302. Consider 351's too, windsor or cleveland