Clean battery install... need ideas.
- Thread starter billison
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https://www.paperformance.com/battery-terminal-994002/
I’ve had my eye on these for a while. If for no other reason than I think they look pretty cool!
I’ve had my eye on these for a while. If for no other reason than I think they look pretty cool!
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I have a pair of those. They look as good in person as they do in the photos.
Have been debating deleting my starter solenoid and doing a junction block. I am running a 92-93 starter so I can run a simple relay to activate the starter. Deleting that mess of wires would clean up that area a lot
Have been debating deleting my starter solenoid and doing a junction block. I am running a 92-93 starter so I can run a simple relay to activate the starter. Deleting that mess of wires would clean up that area a lot
Nothing fancy here. I just replaced the cables with factory and routed cleanly. I’m probably doing things in reverse cuz next winter I’m gonna pull the motor and detail and paint the bay but at least I’ll have everything.
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I had good luck with the AC Delco from Rock Auto when my original starter crapped out. I tried a cheap Amazon one, and had nothing but trouble!!
How are your electrical and soldering skills?
View: https://youtu.be/ZDSOIN0egMo?t=124
You don't need the whole setup this video shows, you just need to build your custom battery cells and hide them strategically.
Reddevil91
15 Year Member
- Mar 3, 2010
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I’m listening too! I actually thought Ford kept the fender mounted solenoid even when they went to the mini starters? Getting rid of it would be nice! (Now back to @billison battery thread - sorry)
Ford did keep the fender solenoid, but it's not needed. The high current switching is done down at the solenoid mounted on the starter with the 92+ setup. The old fender solenoid is retained as an oversized relay at this point. Was probably cheaper for Ford to keep it the same vs redesign it all.
Basically on the 92-93 cars, you move the cable that used to activate the starter on the pre 92 cars over to the same side as the battery cable and all the other power leads. So that wire to the starter is hot 24-7. The little wire on the small post is from the ignition. When you turn the key to start, that wire gets power and activates the solenoid, but now you just send power to the other side to a small 10G wire that send current to the solenoid on the starter and closes that. You are using a solenoid to activate a solenoid.
All that can be done with a simple 30A automotive relay. ALL the other wires on the one common side of the solenoid just get connected to a battery post.
You can run something like this, and mount it on the other side of the fender if you want (although you'd need to jack car up and pull wheel to access when you need to)
At that point, you can activate the starter with a simplyl relay.
So post 87 would come from your battery lug, and post 30 would go to the starter trigger post down on the starter. I forget if the small wire on the fender solenoid is 12V ground or connect to negative, but depending on which it is, you'd connect to 85 or 86 and power/ground the other wire. Carry a few spare 30A relays in the glovebox for obvious reasons.
But the relay can be tucked away out of sight. ANd then bye bye fender solenoid.
Could even relocate the coil at that point too.
Sorry to hijck a thread about battery mounting solutions, but cleaning up the wiring would also clean up the way the battery looks as well
Ford did keep the fender solenoid, but it's not needed. The high current switching is done down at the solenoid mounted on the starter with the 92+ setup. The old fender solenoid is retained as an oversized relay at this point. Was probably cheaper for Ford to keep it the same vs redesign it all.
Basically on the 92-93 cars, you move the cable that used to activate the starter on the pre 92 cars over to the same side as the battery cable and all the other power leads. So that wire to the starter is hot 24-7. The little wire on the small post is from the ignition. When you turn the key to start, that wire gets power and activates the solenoid, but now you just send power to the other side to a small 10G wire that send current to the solenoid on the starter and closes that. You are using a solenoid to activate a solenoid.
All that can be done with a simple 30A automotive relay. ALL the other wires on the one common side of the solenoid just get connected to a battery post.
You can run something like this, and mount it on the other side of the fender if you want (although you'd need to jack car up and pull wheel to access when you need to)
At that point, you can activate the starter with a simplyl relay.
So post 87 would come from your battery lug, and post 30 would go to the starter trigger post down on the starter. I forget if the small wire on the fender solenoid is 12V ground or connect to negative, but depending on which it is, you'd connect to 85 or 86 and power/ground the other wire. Carry a few spare 30A relays in the glovebox for obvious reasons.
But the relay can be tucked away out of sight. ANd then bye bye fender solenoid.
Could even relocate the coil at that point too.
Sorry to hijck a thread about battery mounting solutions, but cleaning up the wiring would also clean up the way the battery looks as well
TY - I have my wheels off, inner fenders out, and my harness completely apart right now, so I guess now would be the time! I think I may do this! Seems pretty easy the way you’ve laid it out!
The cleanest battery install is the one that isn't under the hood. The thing weighs 50+ pounds, it's on the same side the driver is on, and all of that extra weight is in front of the strut tower,making the car even heavier in the nose and on the left side..How many more reasons do you need to move the thing to the rear?.
I'll prob tackle it too at some point. I've been looking at OEM GM junction blocks that are quite clean looking and offer fuse hookups for things like fans and such. Mine will likely be in the open on the febder so I want that oem look.
Something like this so I could cleanly fuse my Alt, e-fan, etc.
I'll prob tackle it too at some point. I've been looking at OEM GM junction blocks that are quite clean looking and offer fuse hookups for things like fans and such. Mine will likely be in the open on the febder so I want that oem look.
Something like this so I could cleanly fuse my Alt, e-fan, etc.
That’s a nice piece, and would definitely clean things up!!
I just ordered the relay and the four post terminal. I’ll post in my progress thread as I move along!
Ford did keep the fender solenoid, but it's not needed. The high current switching is done down at the solenoid mounted on the starter with the 92+ setup. The old fender solenoid is retained as an oversized relay at this point. Was probably cheaper for Ford to keep it the same vs redesign it all.
Basically on the 92-93 cars, you move the cable that used to activate the starter on the pre 92 cars over to the same side as the battery cable and all the other power leads. So that wire to the starter is hot 24-7. The little wire on the small post is from the ignition. When you turn the key to start, that wire gets power and activates the solenoid, but now you just send power to the other side to a small 10G wire that send current to the solenoid on the starter and closes that. You are using a solenoid to activate a solenoid.
All that can be done with a simple 30A automotive relay. ALL the other wires on the one common side of the solenoid just get connected to a battery post.
You can run something like this, and mount it on the other side of the fender if you want (although you'd need to jack car up and pull wheel to access when you need to)
At that point, you can activate the starter with a simplyl relay.
So post 87 would come from your battery lug, and post 30 would go to the starter trigger post down on the starter. I forget if the small wire on the fender solenoid is 12V ground or connect to negative, but depending on which it is, you'd connect to 85 or 86 and power/ground the other wire. Carry a few spare 30A relays in the glovebox for obvious reasons.
But the relay can be tucked away out of sight. ANd then bye bye fender solenoid.
Could even relocate the coil at that point too.
Sorry to hijck a thread about battery mounting solutions, but cleaning up the wiring would also clean up the way the battery looks as well
Hmmm I guess I should do that... I installed one of those new mini starter kits LMR has... so I guess anykind of junking type box would work? I would like to keep it in the same area... something that maybe the relay could be hiding in would be nice..
of course keeping it simple would be good too... this look like the red one you posted -https://www.amazon.com/dp/B078VGKC8T/ref=sspa_dk_detail_2?psc=1&pd_rd_i=B078VGKC8T&pd_rd_w=JqMVW&pf_rd_p=80559f3c-f83b-49c1-8a72-40f936e9df7a&pd_rd_wg=gQVip&pf_rd_r=7MHGZKCZ416MEWCWMV82&pd_rd_r=89832f76-458a-11e9-b0ce-1582fe71c4d3
The 4 posts would be enough to hook the the battery, starter, and to power an amp...... And I guess I could be the relay inside the car under the dash, if I find the remote wire that runs to the fender solenoid now, cut into it and run it through the relay, and then just rerun the other end of the wire that was going to the solenoid to the starter (I'm going to be removing and re-wrapping the wire harness anyway). So they offer that in 3/8 and 5/16" what would be the correct one needed for the cables?
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Depends on the size of the ring terminals on your wires. The factory solenoid studs might be 5/16"...not sure.
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