Clutch And Flywheel Replacement Suggestions

Discussion in '1979 - 1995 (Fox, SN95.0, & 2.3L) -General/Talk-' started by Illuminator, Aug 1, 2013.

  1. Got the call today that not only is trans totally junked but the clutch and flywheel are toast too, just wondering if you guys could suggest a decent setup for the clutch and replacement for the flywheel w/o needing a winning lotto ticket of course. 4.10's and fairly aggressive pedler so keep that in mind, no track time atm, using for dd (was) until trans self destructed. Really was hoping to do a T56 Magnum conv, but can't afford the T5 fix as it sits. I just don't want to end up pulling the trans in a few months because the clutch is toast already.....thanks
  2. I have a Ford Racing King Cobra clutch on a Ram billet steel flywheel. Not too bad of a set up. I have been happy with it. The King Cobra clutch seems to be a decent clutch for the money.
  3. I see LMR has a Ram kit for $680 with flywheel and clutch,pp,tb, tool & bolts etc....seems decent, w/o getting into the 1k dual disk setups
  4. I'll toss a Dual Friction Centerforce into the pile as well.

    If anything your 410s make it easier on the clutch, not harder.

    The King Cobra is a nice setup and I've been running a billet steel flywheel since the first time I changed my clutch. 15+ years of street duty on the flywheel with occasional track use and still in service.
    larrym1961 likes this.
  5. leaving it upto my trans guy, he's sending me over in the am(if place is open)to his supplier to take my old setup and have em cross ref it and make sure I'm getting at least what I had before, which lasted almost 10 years with severe punishment....umm not sure if it's fact, but wasn't all the flywheels for typical gt/lx T5 cars always cast iron?? my trans guy seemed to think they were forged steel but I beg to differ
  6. If you beg to differ, I would say you are right. T5 Mustangs came stock with cast iron flywheels.
  7. Mine had a steel wheel, but has a few heat spots on it, have to see if it can be surfaced repair bill is going up faster then I
  8. I have to toss in my vote for the King Cobra clutch kit with a stock steel wheel. great feel, holds up to moderate abuse and is time proven to be a good functional combo. I want to say I pieced my kit together and overall cost was under 400 for the clutch kit and flywheel. If you have time to search you can get the parts for cheaper than you think.
    As for the tranny, unless they are pulling the whole thing apart to fix it rather than just replacing a synchro ring you are going to see another failure soon. I would shop for a used replacement. Will likely be cheaper than paying someone to break yours apart anyway.
  9. Yeah I know, the whole box was pulled and supposedly the rebuild guy used another core to rebuild, because trust me....I trashed the old one pretty good, fealt like the whole countershaft and input came out of their fact barely got car out of gear afterwards
  10. I used a spec stage 2 on my last car, both with a center force disc and the spec disc. Originally
    Had the g force with 26 spline, then moved back to the 10 spline after I blew the g force up. That's why I have the 10 spline center force disc now. But both worked great.
  11. By the time I'm done replacing everything, the T56 is seeming like if might not have been such a bad idea after all, altho still a few thousand more after all the changover goodies, clutch etc better have em do the rear main seal while they are in there too....
  12. Went ahead and went for the stage 2 clutch (clutch guy was trying to push a stage 3, but I don't have the need nor want the harshness for dd use.)got prothane inserts for trans crossmember, steel input shaft retainer, and an aluminum driveshaft... next will be new tires when trans is done....woo hoo
  13. Finally got car back but with more evolving issues as a couple others are put to rest.. 1st off somewhat spiffed at my friend who did the work in his shop. Seems they are unfamiliar with quadrant and firewall clutch adjusters. Need to serious re-adjust, and worse off is one of his guys left the ignition and headlights on, I the key on when I went to start car to take it home, battery was toast, but recovered after a quick charge.... made it a few blocks then noticed amp gauge with nothing registering, parked and found the fuse to 3g conversion smoked....and battery dead again as well, got charged, drove car home (running kinda sluggish for some reason? low voltage perhaps?) got upto speed on freeway and was happy to know the driveline vibe I have had since I got the car around 10yrs ago was finally gone (new aluminum driveshaft) the clutch is quite grabby (stage 2)but way out of adjustment, barely engaging in the last inch or less of pedal travel, and I even grinded 3rd on a few spirited take offs....ugh... finally got car home and was planning to adjust clutch and drive to work tomorrow....not happening, now the starter seems to have taken a crap as well..(unreal) anyhow, I had intended to replace it when I ordered the driveshaft but couldn't locate a good deal on a gear reduction unit at same vendor or one that would next day air reasonably.... anyone have suggestions or preferences regarding aftermarket starteres?? seems theres 100's to choose from, think I was looking at a Powermaster unit that was on their lower scale for cost but still had the adjustability for header clearance etc..... Thanks for the input!!