CLUTCH CABLE

hhenshaw59

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I just upgraded my 76 Cobra to an 88 5.0 with a T5 trans. I am having problems with the old clutch cable from the T4 trans that was in it with the original 5.0. Can anyone help me out with what clutch cable I need to use for this application.
 
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LILCBRA

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I'd suspect the stock cable. What kind of problems are you having?
 

LILCBRA

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With the RAD bellhousing, there is a boss with a hole where the cable is stuck through. The cable is threaded on that end and attached using jam nuts. I'm pretty sure that that adjustment is for the cable length to get you in the ball park. Then, there's a piece that's attached to the firewall that I think looks like a rook chess piece. The cable has a "nut" on that end as well with 2 tangs that lock into the grooves in the castle part of the rook piece. That's where the pedal adjustment is made. If you're unable to secure the cable at the bell housing or are missing the rook piece I'd suspect you'd run into problems.
 
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IICrew

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Lilcbra hit the nail on the head above. The cable is held in place by the hole in the bell and firewall mount.

I installed a t5 and used the stock cable. I am using the rad4 bell though.

One problem I had was the spring on the cable is too long. I had to cut it down to about 1/3 the original length. Another problem I had was the headers melted the cable during initial engine break-in.

Can you get us a pic of cable at the firewall and the clutch fork/lower anchor point?
 
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IICrew

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I looked up pictures of the fox t5 bell and its the same as the rad 4. Just clocked closer to 9 vs our 7.

What exactly is happening? Is the pedal firm but the clutch engaged? Is it slipping?
 

2Blue2

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Can you get us a pic of cable at the firewall and the clutch fork/lower anchor point?

Heres some of it

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Enzio

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We are going to need some more info. I personally have changed the clutch and cable several times. I was using the stock bell housing.

A picture of the fox bell would work from the rear. I don't know if there is room to get the cable in the hole or not but assume so as you said above that you're having problems getting adjustment out of the cable. So I'm assuming you've had it in there.

Does the cable slide back and forth easily? If so I'd still spray some graphite lube in there just because.

install the cable through the firewall and hook it up to the pedal. I'd make sure there is a plastic bushing where the cable goes around the pivot. (I couldn't find a replacement and used an "anti-short bushing for MC cable" got it from my local home depot. Just ask the guys in the electrical department. It'll be little and red and come in different sizes. It worked for about 10 years. Oh, and beware the exhaust manifold/headers. The cables burn/melt and then you'll need to do this over.

Take all of the adjustment out of the cable. (turn the blue adjusting knob toward the rubber casing on the cable.)

Now thread the clutch end of the cable down to the bell and through the hole of the bell. Put a nut on the cable on the rear side to hold it in place.

You should be able to put the cable "ball end" through the fork. Push the cable slack back through the cable sheath towards the firewall. (it is really helpful to have another person up at the firewall and start taking the slack out using the Blue adjusting nut while you make sure the Ball end of the cable stays where it should be in the fork.

Keep going. I've always liked the cable to be so tight that I pulled on it very hard and had someone using a properly sized wrench to crank it down. I'm not the only one because as you can see the the firewall tube is busted up where the teeth from the blue nut are supposed to sit. They all are.

Your done. Go for a ride.

A problem. I used the spec clutch replacement. In that case there is a significant difference in the depth of the pressure plate and I had to "shim" up the adjustment at the firewall to give me more adjustment. It worked. I think I used some Heavy duty washers. If you're using a stock fox clutch I don't know if there will be a problem.
 
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Enzio

Dang it. I was hoping mine would get 3 more inches
May 14, 2019
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Minnesota
Oh and get rid of the spring. It does nothing for you except bind up.
 
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hhenshaw59

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Here are pics at the bell housing I will have pics of the top half tonight or tomorrow.
 

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hhenshaw59

Member
Nov 17, 2021
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2
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62
NORMAN, OK
We are going to need some more info. I personally have changed the clutch and cable several times. I was using the stock bell housing.

A picture of the fox bell would work from the rear. I don't know if there is room to get the cable in the hole or not but assume so as you said above that you're having problems getting adjustment out of the cable. So I'm assuming you've had it in there.

Does the cable slide back and forth easily? If so I'd still spray some graphite lube in there just because.

install the cable through the firewall and hook it up to the pedal. I'd make sure there is a plastic bushing where the cable goes around the pivot. (I couldn't find a replacement and used an "anti-short bushing for MC cable" got it from my local home depot. Just ask the guys in the electrical department. It'll be little and red and come in different sizes. It worked for about 10 years. Oh, and beware the exhaust manifold/headers. The cables burn/melt and then you'll need to do this over.

Take all of the adjustment out of the cable. (turn the blue adjusting knob toward the rubber casing on the cable.)

Now thread the clutch end of the cable down to the bell and through the hole of the bell. Put a nut on the cable on the rear side to hold it in place.

You should be able to put the cable "ball end" through the fork. Push the cable slack back through the cable sheath towards the firewall. (it is really helpful to have another person up at the firewall and start taking the slack out using the Blue adjusting nut while you make sure the Ball end of the cable stays where it should be in the fork.

Keep going. I've always liked the cable to be so tight that I pulled on it very hard and had someone using a properly sized wrench to crank it down. I'm not the only one because as you can see the the firewall tube is busted up where the teeth from the blue nut are supposed to sit. They all are.

Your done. Go for a ride.

A problem. I used the spec clutch replacement. In that case there is a significant difference in the depth of the pressure plate and I had to "shim" up the adjustment at the firewall to give me more adjustment. It worked. I think I used some Heavy duty washers. If you're using a stock fox clutch I don't know if there will be a problem.
I'm using the stock T4 clutch cable from the original motor and trans
 

IICrew

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Cut that spring. It will bind when prressing the pedal in. Either remove it or leave about 1/3 of it like I did. It is really unnecessary once you adjust the cable properly at the firewall.

The cable is not sitting at 90 degree angle to bell. Is the bolt tight? Almost looks like the spring is hanging up on threads. If you cannot get it tight add a washer or something. There is a lot of force there and over time it will wallow out the bell as well as work that nut loose.

What exactly is happening? Is clutch slipping? Staying engaged?
 
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hhenshaw59

Member
Nov 17, 2021
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NORMAN, OK
Cut that spring. It will bind when prressing the pedal in. Either remove it or leave about 1/3 of it like I did. It is really unnecessary once you adjust the cable properly at the firewall.

The cable is not sitting at 90 degree angle to bell. Is the bolt tight? Almost looks like the spring is hanging up on threads. If you cannot get it tight add a washer or something. There is a lot of force there and over time it will wallow out the bell as well as work that nut loose.

What exactly is happening? Is clutch slipping? Staying engaged?
We can't get the other nut on the back side where the spring is and the other nut doesn't turn, so what I'm understanding is we don't need both nuts and tighten the one nut up and that should remove all the slack
 

LILCBRA

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It seems that I don't have the nut installed on the inside either, and the spring on my cable looks like yours does. I don't have any problems with clutch engagement. I'm pretty sure all that spring is there for is to maintain pressure for the cable to stay in the clutch fork, so as long as it's not binding it's probably fine. Will the cable housing move? Maybe a little, but it's probably just fine without both jam nuts - at least that's how I viewed it when I put my car together. Now, if that spring is binding, that could cause problems, so it shouldn't hurt anything to trim it some, at least so it's not as bound up as it is. But I've been able to adjust my clutch with it looking like yours does.

This is just me thinking "outloud" since I really don't know, but is there a difference between clutch pedals? If so, is yours a stock 302 pedal or was it robbed from something other than a V8 car, like a 4 cylinder or something? I mean as I understand, yours is a V8 car, so it's the stock pedal? Anyway, if it's from something else, the pivot points could be a little different to allow for more or less pressure - that might affect clutch engagement.... :shrug:
 

IICrew

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Mar 29, 2020
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USA
Can you give us a description of whats happening? This far in and all we know is the cable is not adjusting properly. What is happening. Is the pedal firm? Loose? Is the clutch slipping? Is the clutch staying engaged even with a good pedal.

If the pedal is firm and the clutch will not disengage I bet its the spring.

On the factory cable setup you have the nut molded on the cable then one nut on the back side that tightens it down. Looks like you just need to tighten the backside nut. If you leave it like it is it will work. Just remember you have a steel nut on both ends with sharp points along the threaded portion that will wear on the softer aluminum as it moves around. It is not going to self destruct in 5 miles but over time if it's not tight the steel will wear the aluminum.