Clutch Disengagement problems

[mikeoforchard]

The car is a 90' mustang. I have a Steeda quadrant, firewall adjuster, adjustable cable, and a spec stage three clutch. The problem is that my clutch will not disengage until the pedal is at the floor basically. At idle I have the cable tightened as much as I can without the TO bearing actually spinning on the pressure plate fingers. Any idea's as to why the clutch isn't disengaging sooner?
Maximum Motorsports suggested that the adjustable cable may be doing weird things and actually squishing when I push the clutch pedal in, breaking the 1:1 ratio of one end of the cable to the other. Another possibility is that I need to adjust the ball stud out a little bit. Whats the best way to adjust a ball stud...I'm thinking that you want the fork to push on the TO bearing as flushly as possible, but I'm not sure how much of an angle I can push on the TO bearing and everything will remain to be fine. Any ideas? I also tried to make sure I had no flex in the firewall or quadrant, as well. Other then these things I don't really have any more ideas. I would appreciate any help I could get. Thank you very much.

 

[HISSIN50]

the cable is sposed to have some preload in it (iirc, ~10#). i would tighten it up.
good luck.

 

[jerry beach]

If you have a firewall adjuster, turn it counter-clockwise. This will cause you clutch to disengage higher up off the floor. If you run out of adjustment there you can choose a different hook on the quad or adjust it at the fork if all else fails. Sounds to me that you are confused as to which way tightens the cable, its not the way you think. Loosening the FWA lengthens the housing, therefore tightening the cable.

 

[mikeoforchard]

I'm well aware of how to tighten the cable, however my point was that if I tighten it up anymore it will be riding on the pressure plate. Hissin, you say there is suppose to be some preload, does this mean that the TO bearing is constantly going to be spinning on the fingers? Thanks

 

[HISSIN50]

thats my understanding. but it spins anyhow; thats what people hear when the pedal is released. the TOB really does ride on the fingers anyhow, just with varying amounts of pressure. the diaphram pushes the TOB away, but there is no "return" spring to move the TOB even further away from the Pressure Plate. so it always rests on the fingers. to preload it really has no effect. a lot of folks with new clutches HAVE to preload to fully engage/disengage the clutch.

i am not saying this is gospel. this is partially my experiences and partially what i have read elsewhere and seen in here. i welcome people who know otherwise to say so. this is how it is as best i know.
hope this helps.

 

[EMW150]

You can adjust the pivot ball by shimming it. I just used a washer of the right thickness behind it. (just mixed and matched till it was right) There's plenty of threads on it that you don't need to worry about not having enough depth. I did it while I had the transmission out of the car with the linkage hooked up. Made quite a difference on the release height of the pedal.

 

[Rick 91GT]

I would first try a stock cable, I find those adj cables are junk and fought engagement and disengagment with them even when they were new. I did notice my TOB would just barley touch the fingers on my clutch when not engaged with the SPEC stage 3.

The last car I did I put a Stage II SPEC, UPR adj, UPR triple hook, stock cable..ended up on 2nd hook and the firewall adjuster was a good bit out, engagement/disengagement was around the height of the brake pedal.

 

[mikeoforchard]

Thanks guys, I will work on shortly.
I just finished putting 275's all the way around, not to bad at all. I was intimidated about the whole rolling fender lips thing. With a panhard bar out back there was no need to roll the rear lips. I did however beat the inside wheel well with a hammer. The panhard bar helps a lot. Up front took 1/4inch spacers and I rolled the lips too. Car looks great.