Clutch Question...what Would You Do?

Discussion in '1996 - 2004 SN95 Mustang -General/Talk-' started by IIGood, Jun 21, 2014.

  1. I have a 2003 GT, 5 speed, that I've owned since new. It's been my DD the whole time and now has 162K on the clock. I've never overly abused it (it's been down the dragstrip a few times and has seen some parking lot donuts, burnouts, etc...but nothing excessive).

    Right now, I can hear the throwout bearing making noise. The clutch still seems as strong as day signs of slipping or anything like that.

    So whenever I decide to have the TOB replaced, should I have the clutch replaced as well to save the labor down the road, or just leave the clutch alone for now since it isn't presenting any problems? On the one hand, I'm trying to save $$$ to just fix what's necessary, but on the other, I'd hate to replace the bearing, and then have the clutch suddenly give up shortly afterward.
  2. if the clutch has 162,000 on I'd change it when I had the trans out if it was mine...with the cost of pulling the trans, in either time or money, it doesn't make much sense not to change everything you possibly while you're in there.
  3. I would do it right the first time by installing new parts instead of just replacing one worn out part. I did my clutch swap for the same reasons as you, my tob was squealing like mad and I was sick and tired of it. I bought an Exedy stage 1 clutch, and went a little overboard and bought a Ram billet steel flywheel and put a Ford Racing tob in. Mine only had 111k on it and the stock clutch was in good shape so was the flywheel but since I was doing this I wanted to do it right with good parts.
  4. Like the others have recommended, it would be a wise decision to replace the clutch while the transmission is out of the car. A clutch upgrade would be nice but a stock replacement will still be better than the worn clutch that you have in the car now.
  5. the trans is a pain in the ass to drop, id hate to do it all for a throw out bearing! chance the clutch too!
  6. I would have to agree and I did mine myself. I'm glad everything in there is new and I do not have to go back in for a long time. Thank the Lord.
  7. Thanks for the suggestions everybody...I had a feeling it would be best to do it all at once given the higher mileage. I'm gonna opt to save up a bit more, get all the makings of the clutch kit, and get it done right the first time. I just pray the bearing doesn't completely fail before then! LOL.
  8. I with you on that brother! I just did it too only my issue is that the pedal started to become hard to push it. When I took out the clutch to replace it and the pilot I was pretty shocked to see how good the stock clutch was but my issue was clutch fork and pivot ball.

    OP should make sure and replace the pivot ball and the fork. I used a FRPP fork and a Mcloud stock replacement pivot ball from Summit. Don't forget to replace the cable even if you have in the past.
  9. For a daily driver: resurface the flywheel, get a Ford Raching pilot bearing, throw out bearing, clutch kit and OEM clutch cable and put it back together and forget about it for a long time. Whatever you do, avoid Ebay or SPEC clutches like the plague.
    84Ttop likes this.
  10. So, what is the deal with SPEC clutches? I originally got a stage 3+ to go along with the mods I was making, but ended up going with a RAM twin disc 900 series. I still have the SPEC clutch new in the box sitting on my garage floor if anyone is interested.
  11. EVERY one I have installed ends up coming out within weeks. IMHO, and others as well, they are of poor quality and over priced for what they are. I have tried (in my own vehicles and customers) multiple brands, to include Ebay garbage and, without fail, every time, complaints of driveability and/or failure within a very short time. I won't sell them and won't even install them as customer carry in parts.

    Secondly, they were a top corporate sponsor not too long ago at a national race here in central FL and they supplied FREE FREE FREE clutch kits, to include flywheels to every compitor in every class that signed up. Every single was either completely incinerated within 1 day of racing or, performed so terribly that the remaining ones came out soon after. Not one single one went the whole weekend.

    From personal experiance, for daily drivers I use OEM. Everything else, I go with Centerforce. I have good luck with Ram as well.

    This is just my experience. I know someone could have a completely different one.
  12. Wow! Good to know. I've had that clutch for some time now collecting dust in the garage. Think I'll just chalk it up as bad advice from where I was originally having my turbos installed. I'd feel guilty trying to sell it now after hearing this. :)
  13. Like I said, everyone's experience is different. That is just mine.
  14. I have a Spec clutch, it's been working fine for about 4k-5k miles. Mind you this car was just a cruiser, no tq monster.
  15. I installed a Spec 3+ with a Spec billet steel flywheel. Replaced the pilot, throwout bearing, billet quadrant, fork and pivot with FRPP pieces. Maximum Motorsports clutch cable. Took my time with the break in period and haven't had a failure yet.

    I will say that the clutch is very "on/off". It is a heavy pedal and comes on suddenly. When you find the tiny tiny slip range of the clutch, it can be pretty chattery especially when in reverse. For my purposes though, it is doing fine. Haven't had it in very long though, still have yet to form a final opinion.
  16. At 162k if I was going in there I would replace with stock parts:
    -throw out bearing
    -pilot bearing
    -resurface or replace flywheel
    -pivot ball stud
    -clutch cable
  17. That many miles, wouldn't hurt to do the clutch fork too. Brothers Performance has them pretty cheap. Like $25 or so last time I checked.
    BrothersPerformance likes this.
  18. What ever you do make sure you install it right and if your like me and like to do your own work do just that. I let a friend change mine for me and i cant go past 100mph with out it feeling like the flywheel and clutch are going to come through the shifter hole. . . with that said i would do spec they do in house balancing with clutch and flywheel down to .001 of tolerance i believe. Thats where my money is going. Right now i have the exedy lightweight flywheel at 16 lbs. The revs are nice but the vibration isn't damppened by the weight. The clutch isnt bad stage 2 is pretty good. At first theres some slipping after a while the only thong slipping will be your tires. On a can tune and bone stock engine I'm able to make a fourth gear tire squeal. I'll probably sell it when i take it out and replace it.
    Edit: mind grammer and spelling
  19. Bringing this back from the dead a bit...but an update...

    The TOB pretty much completely gave up earlier this week. I'd start the car and it would instantly start squealing that awful squeal that could be heard for a 10 mile radius. It must've known it was about to go under the knife since I had just ordered the last of the parts the day before it started squealing bad. I had it towed to the shop and had to wait for the parts to arrive. So the shop has the car now.


    Ran into a slight parts snag. I ordered the clutch and pressure plate kit from Summit, and I ordered the 11"/26-spline kit. What came out of the car was an 11"/10-spline disc. *Sigh*. Just found this out today after they took it I called Summit back and got the correct combo ordered. Now I'm not gonna have the car back till next week. Doh.

    Looks like they're also gonna have a heck of a time with the throwout bearing. It has seemingly seized on the input shaft; they couldn't pull it off like it should. The outer part of it broke off and it was a bit deformed but the inner part was still on the shaft. I also gave them a new fork, cable, pilot bearing, pivot stud, flywheel, and rear main seal.
  20. They can be cut off eeeever so carefully with a steady hand. Little heat won't hurt either. Have them change the fluid while they have it out as well.