Clutch recommendation

DH71986

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I have a 1986 Mustang SVO that I am more them likely going to need a clutch for. I have not pulled the trans out yet to see what has happened but I am almost going to bet the clutch is fried or at minimum the pilot bearing as failed. The car is running a Garrett GT2871R at 18 psi with 80 lb injectors, ported and polished head, PIMPX ecu, and Ranger hydraulic roller cam. It also is running a full 3" exhaust with no cat or muffler. I have not had this on a dyno and the previous owner did not know exactly what kind of power it was making. What clutch would you recommend for this application?
 
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Potomus Pete

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I have a McLeod Street level that I like a lot, but if I had to do it again I would get the King Cobra. I think that is tougher , and can take a better beating.
 

Noobz347

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I'm not certain what an SVO:
running a Garrett GT2871R at 18 psi with 80 lb injectors, ported and polished head, PIMPX ecu, and Ranger hydraulic roller cam. It also is running a full 3" exhaust with no cat or muffler.
puts down in torque but I don't think that it exceeds 300 foot-pounds. Given that piece, I would probably replace the clutch with an OEM GT clutch. If it typically revs higher than 6250 then I might consider a Dual Friction Center Force or King Cobra. Both are overkill IMO unless you're planning some track use.

Keep the extra cash for something else you might need.
 

junkyardwarrior

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is your svo still using the 4 cyilnder bellhousing? Or is it swapped to V8 bellhousing with adapter? The clutch size for the 2.3 bellhousing is 9" and a standard size 10 or 10 1/2" clutch from a V8 5.0 will not fit, period.
 
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DH71986

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is your svo still using the 4 cyilnder bellhousing? Or is it swapped to V8 bellhousing with adapter? The clutch size for the 2.3 bellhousing is 9" and a standard size 10 or 10 1/2" clutch from a V8 5.0 will not fit, period.

Yes this car still has the factory bellhousing so I will have to use a 9" clutch. I am also running a billet aluminum flywheel. I have the trans ready to come out just don't have a trans jack. Thought about using a floor jack but didn't want to risk it falling off and breaking an ear or cracking the case.
 

junkyardwarrior

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I have used a stock replacement clutch for many years in two or three different 2.3T powered cars, without issue. The one, Merkur, I decied to "upgrade" the clutch & PP because it was a similar combination as yours. At the time I didn't knwo about the ranger cam being a little less powerful than the stock turbo slider cam, but I know now. Anyway, I picked up a PP & disc from pyropete (ebay seller, also has a turboford.org account), 4 puck unsprung, and it was a little grabby, very unforgiving, button clutch as they say (on or off an hard to slip it to accelerate from a stop sign, etc). It did NOT slip (ever), and it actually made the transmission shift a little easier if I was "speed shifting" (not power shifting) the stock T5 at the drag strip. Sold it with that clutch still in it, worked fine, no problems.

My 84 SVO had an aluminum flywheel and I hated it, but it had a 3.50 T5 (out of an 86). I got kinda used to it but never really "liked it".
 

DH71986

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Feb 17, 2017
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I have used a stock replacement clutch for many years in two or three different 2.3T powered cars, without issue. The one, Merkur, I decied to "upgrade" the clutch & PP because it was a similar combination as yours. At the time I didn't knwo about the ranger cam being a little less powerful than the stock turbo slider cam, but I know now. Anyway, I picked up a PP & disc from pyropete (ebay seller, also has a turboford.org account), 4 puck unsprung, and it was a little grabby, very unforgiving, button clutch as they say (on or off an hard to slip it to accelerate from a stop sign, etc). It did NOT slip (ever), and it actually made the transmission shift a little easier if I was "speed shifting" (not power shifting) the stock T5 at the drag strip. Sold it with that clutch still in it, worked fine, no problems.

My 84 SVO had an aluminum flywheel and I hated it, but it had a 3.50 T5 (out of an 86). I got kinda used to it but never really "liked it".


I do not believe that I can use the stock replacement clutch as I am over the torque rating of that particular clutch. I am going to try and get a trans jack over the next couple days and get it apart to figure out what failed on me. The previous owner had the trans rebuilt and put a clutch, billet flywheel, and bearings in about 2 years ago. I am surprised that the parts did not last longer. I am hoping it is a throw out bearing or the pilot bearing that had failed to save me some money as I don't have a bunch of money just laying around.
 

junkyardwarrior

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You're not that much more power than mine is. Mine is a stock replacement clutch, has never slipped excessively-ever. Your list of parts looks nice until I saw ranger cam. That camshaft is holding you back big time, much the same as mine. I love the idle quality and driveability on the streets but it's done by 5200 RPM, which severely limits horsepower--and mine is retarded by 5 degrees to help bring the top end back. With no retard, 4500-4800 and it falls off from there making a very narrow mid range punch; by the time the turbo packs the pipes and you're starting to make steam, the cam sucks the life out of it. But here is the deal-the stock rods are plenty for most mild builds, but those stock rods will also exit the block under any appreciable power and RPM levels, IMO highly recommended to change them if you want to spin it much more than 6000. Of course the ranger cam is done long before then.

When you put in a stout clutch, you're also putting more shock load on the transmission should you drive it hard. That comes into play if you're using a stock 4 cylinder T5 which is weak anyway. In that sense, the stock replacement SVO clutch is the fuse that helps keep you from grenading the T5.
 
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DH71986

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Feb 17, 2017
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You're not that much more power than mine is. Mine is a stock replacement clutch, has never slipped excessively-ever. Your list of parts looks nice until I saw ranger cam. That camshaft is holding you back big time, much the same as mine. I love the idle quality and driveability on the streets but it's done by 5200 RPM, which severely limits horsepower--and mine is retarded by 5 degrees to help bring the top end back. With no retard, 4500-4800 and it falls off from there making a very narrow mid range punch; by the time the turbo packs the pipes and you're starting to make steam, the cam sucks the life out of it. But here is the deal-the stock rods are plenty for most mild builds, but those stock rods will also exit the block under any appreciable power and RPM levels, IMO highly recommended to change them if you want to spin it much more than 6000. Of course the ranger cam is done long before then.

When you put in a stout clutch, you're also putting more shock load on the transmission should you drive it hard. That comes into play if you're using a stock 4 cylinder T5 which is weak anyway. In that sense, the stock replacement SVO clutch is the fuse that helps keep you from grenading the T5.

So dummy me didn't even think about having the starter tested and what do you know? The starter is bad. My guess is that the starter stayed engaged on the flywheel and proceeded to destroy itself and shut the car down as well as make some terrible noises as well as smoke. So that is why I thought it was the clutch. Oh well, I guess now I know how to remove and install a T5 in a foxbody.:doh::fuss::bang:
 
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