Clutch selection

deathb4dismount

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Oct 6, 2011
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I'm trying to sort out a new clutch kit complete with flywheel and need some help making the right decisions. It's going on an hci street car making 300ish tq that will never be on drag radials. My T5 is old, and although an upgrade is planned, I dont want to destroy it before I sort out the new trans. I was thinking a stage 1 clutch as it would be an improvement over the stocker but not too harsh. Something like an FRPP or Ram HDX. The flywheel is stock and as far as I know and I want to replace. Do I need to go with billet steel or is a the FRPP cast one good for my application? This car will never see the track and aside from my dreams there is probably no realistic way a power adder will end up bolted on.
 
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I don't know the best answer to your question, but I powershifted my GT40x/GT40/E-cam 270rwhp/310rwtq combo for about 2 years with a Ford HD clutch and effectively the same combo years ago -- different car -- on a King Cobra clutch. There are surely better clutches these days, but those definitely worked. What doesn't? Spec. Blew the T5 out enroute to my first drag strip with that brand clutch. Just a spec stage 2 ( or stage 3... memory is a bit foggy).

Another thing you can do to help protect the trans is switch to a lighter aluminum flywheel. There's less kinetic energy to hit the trans on hard shifts.
 
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I don't know the best answer to your question, but I powershifted my GT40x/GT40/E-cam 270rwhp/310rwtq combo for about 2 years with a Ford HD clutch and effectively the same combo years ago -- different car -- on a King Cobra clutch. There are surely better clutches these days, but those definitely worked. What doesn't? Spec. Blew the T5 out enroute to my first drag strip with that brand clutch. Just a spec stage 2 ( or stage 3... memory is a bit foggy).

Another thing you can do to help protect the trans is switch to a lighter aluminum flywheel. There's less kinetic energy to hit the trans on hard shifts.

I'll stay away from Spec clutches, they hit way too hard and I know their reputation for shredding T5s. Any other recommendations for the clutch? What would be similar in price that would be superior to those? I'm not brand loyal when it comes to any drive train components.

I just got done doing a forum drag and I'll pass on the aluminum flywheel. Stop and go driving is the name of the game where I'm from and it get's annoying, don't want to add to it.
 
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You know, I don't understand the stop and go traffic comments on aluminum flywheels. Both of mine are aluminum and I have not noticed a difference. Then again, that may be because I'm running a heavier twin disk.

I'm not going to recommend anything that I haven't personally tried, but I would heavily investigate the Ram clutch and I'd call Walt at Promotion Powertrain. He really understands and supports the clutch as fuse concept. He has gone out of his way to help me. Customer service level 10.
 
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You know, I don't understand the stop and go traffic comments on aluminum flywheels. Both of mine are aluminum and I have not noticed a difference. Then again, that may be because I'm running a heavier twin disk.

I'm not going to recommend anything that I haven't personally tried, but I would heavily investigate the Ram clutch and I'd call Walt at Promotion Powertrain. He really understands and supports the clutch as fuse concept. He has gone out of his way to help me. Customer service level 10.

The flywheel thing just seems to be the stangnet consensus by some well respected members. It makes sense to me in the way it's been described because you may have to hold the clutch in longer to slip it properly. I live 4.5 miles from my work and there 10 possible red lights not to mention all the side streets and turn offs I may have to stop and start again for. Just an example of driving conditions and not something I would enjoy if I had to stay in the clutch for any longer than I already do.

Ram is definitely on my radar and will check out Promotion. The only places I have noticed selling the King Cobra are CJ Pony, Astro, and ebay. I'm not sure how often it happens, but I noticed they said some clearance issues may occur specifically with 89-90 bellhousings.

Apparently Mcleod offered something called the Street Muscle clutch exclusively for American Muscle. It is cheaper than and rated for more hp than their Street Level. I just haven't hear of anyone running it and can't find any reviews. American Muscle also has a Mcleod SFI cast iron flywheel which is a pretty good price too.

:thinking:
 
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I have the Ram HDX on a stock replacement flywheel. I use the MM clutch cable and UPR firewall adjuster. I've got about 3000 miles on it and it is a great setup. Very smooth with light pedal pressure.
 
I'm not sure how often it happens, but I noticed they said some clearance issues may occur specifically with 89-90 bellhousings.

Have not heard of that. Did not have that problem on my '92 or '91. Never had one on my '89.

Looks like the HDX is rated to 450 hp. The KC is rated to 350 rwhp (~410 hp). When keeping a T5 alive, total power capacity may not be the goal. I'd kinda like to try out an HDX, though. Heard nothing but good things. Gosh... I remember when performance parts were affordable. $160 for a clutch!? Awesome! I got a hell of a deal on mine and they were $1k. Yeouch!
 
You can try to have your stock flywheel turned to save some money. As for the aluminum flywheel, I really notice no difference.

I ran the Ram in my car when it was around 300rwhp. Destroyed it the first day at the track. Had a KC that I liked well for a driver and held fine. Swore off Ram clutches but ended back up with their 550hp version on a recommendation from Astro. It has held up well for 3 years now.

Joe
 
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You know, I don't understand the stop and go traffic comments on aluminum flywheels. Both of mine are aluminum and I have not noticed a difference. Then again, that may be because I'm running a heavier twin disk.

I'm not going to recommend anything that I haven't personally tried, but I would heavily investigate the Ram clutch and I'd call Walt at Promotion Powertrain. He really understands and supports the clutch as fuse concept. He has gone out of his way to help me. Customer service level 10.

Walt’s a great guy, very knowledgeable. My next trans will definitely be from Promotion as their prices are extremely reasonable.
 
The Ford Racing replacement for the King Cobra is one of the best choices for a street driven car. Last year it was about $400 from Summit for pressure plate, clutch disk and new cast iron flywheel. The price has probably gone up since then, but it is still one of the best deals around.

The new replacement for the King Cobra clutch is slightly grabby when you first start driving it, but it smooths out as it breaks in.
 
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Have not heard of that. Did not have that problem on my '92 or '91. Never had one on my '89.

Looks like the HDX is rated to 450 hp. The KC is rated to 350 rwhp (~410 hp). When keeping a T5 alive, total power capacity may not be the goal. I'd kinda like to try out an HDX, though. Heard nothing but good things. Gosh... I remember when performance parts were affordable. $160 for a clutch!? Awesome! I got a hell of a deal on mine and they were $1k. Yeouch!

If you look under the description of the king cobra on Astro's website it explains that.

I just got an evil idea. Spec stage 2, dump it at 6k, power shift through all the gears, cry to my fiancee, "babe the transmission broke, I don't know what happened." Order new A5
 
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If you look under the description of the king cobra on Astro's website it explains that.

I just got an evil idea. Spec stage 2, dump it at 6k, power shift through all the gears, cry to my fiancee, "babe the transmission broke, I don't know what happened." Order new A5
Hope that works for you, lol.
Ironically, the clutch that Tony 1st had me run was a king cobra pressure plate with a McLeod dual friction disc. He liked the holding power of the disc material and the forgiveness of the pressure plate.

However, that combo has gotten expensive to buy and now he recommended the 550 hp version of the ram, noting that it had a little more clamping pressure than he liked but it was the best for the money.

Joe
 
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Hope that works for you, lol.
Ironically, the clutch that Tony 1st had me run was a king cobra pressure plate with a McLeod dual friction disc. He liked the holding power of the disc material and the forgiveness of the pressure plate.

However, that combo has gotten expensive to buy and now he recommended the 550 hp version of the ram, noting that it had a little more clamping pressure than he liked but it was the best for the money.

Joe

Probably end up with the car on jack stands for a long time.
 
I went through several SPEC clutches on my 94 back in the day. The SPEC Stage 3 was when the car was blown close to 500HP but it did nothing but chatter and curse like a sailor on heavy and annoying it was.

The best driving times with that car was when I had a King Cobra in it. Light pedal and it handled the power just fine. I have 300 quarter mile time slips to prove that it's a great clutch and I was still rocking the stock T5.

My vote would be King Cobra. I'm getting ready to buy one myself for the new 94GT project. Just got my FRPP Adjustable Clutch Cable and FRPP Quadrant in the mail. The Fiore multiclick firewall adjuster I bought from a dude on the Corral flaked. I filed a claim with PayPal weeks ago, August 2nd is the day I get my money back. I found another Fiore on the Corral (different seller) but I may just get a Steeda now.
 
King cobra is a good clutch. I've used it a few times with great success. Have always used center forces dual friction in an assortment of cars and modifications with great results. Had a spec 2 I believe and it was terrible.