Thanks..ill give cleaning it a shot...I would take off and clean/replace the egr valve. The are pretty easy to get to. Depending on how much they cost I would just replace it. I would also clean out the egr tube from the header to the valve. Another option would be to buy a block off plate and a cap for the header and a egr delete sensor plug. I think it cost me around 50.00 to delete my egr setup which in most cases is cheaper that buying a new egr valve but I would try to clean it up first if you want to keep it. It will probably end up needing replaced though. Good luck
Make sure the vac line is attached and that the position sensor is connected.I'm having the same issue... was on my way to the smog shop and the check engine light comes on so I had to turn around. Ran codes and coming up with a 332. When I started it up today there was no CEL on. Can anyone else give some more suggestions as to what could cause this? I just put on a brand new motorcraft egr on. My smog/egr has been deleted for years but I now live in lovely CA so deleting it is not an option. Could there be an issue with the sensor itself?
Not a good idea. You might be able to use copper.i'm also getting code 332, my egr tube was kinked when aftermarket headers were put on. since i can't find a new tube to match up to my headers someone suggested using a piece of heater hose for a new egr tube. would this work? would the header get too hot and melt the heater hose? does anyone have any other suggestions for replacing egr tube for car with aftermarket headers? such as a egr tube made to be bent or something? thanks
like soft copper tubing? the kind plumbers use? so i should just take the end fittings off the kinked egr that i have and put them on a piece of soft copper tubing, and flair the ends and that should be it? how much does flare tool usually run? is it something i can pick up at an autozone or somethingIf you have a flare tool, you can use copper.
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