Code Reader??

Discussion in 'Fox 5.0 Mustang Tech' started by Quick Pony, Jan 19, 2008.

  1. I have a 1991 LX 5.0 convertible. I have a few questiions regarding pulling codes for my car.

    1. I understand that the Equus 3145 Ford Digital Code Reader would work for my car. Is that correct?

    2. This question will probably be a shock to most of you, but here goes. What and where do I plug the scanner into?

    3. Once the codes are pulled, how do I decifer them?

    4. Do I need to purchase the accessory cable that is sold separately for the Equus 3145 Code reader?

    As you can see, I am not the sharpest knife in the drawer when it comes to these issues!!!!!1

    Thanks in advance.

  2. Dump the codes and see what the computer says is wrong…Codes may be present in the computer even if the Check Engine light isn’t on.

    Here's the link to dump the computer codes with only a jumper wire or paper clip and the check engine light, or test light or voltmeter. I’ve used it for years, and it works great. You watch the flashing test lamp or Check Engine Light and count the flashes.




    If your car is an 86-88 stang, you'll have to use the test lamp or voltmeter method. There is no functional check engine light on the 86-88's except possibly the Cali Mass Air cars.


    89 through 95 cars have a working Check Engine light. Watch it instead of using a test lamp.


    Codes have different answers if the engine is running from the answers that it has when the engine isn't running. It helps a lot to know if you had the engine running when you ran the test.

    Trouble codes are either 2 digit or 3 digit, there are no cars that use both 2 digit codes and 3 digit codes.

    For those who are intimidated by all the wires & connections, see for what a typical hand scanner looks like. Normal retail price is about $30 or so at AutoZone or Wal-Mart.

    Or for a nicer scanner see – It has a 3 digit LCD display so that you don’t have to count flashes or beeps.. Cost is $30.

    You do not use the jumper wire with the code reader or other scanner.

    You do not need the extension cable with the code reader. The extension cable is good to use if you want to sit in the driver's seat and dump the engine running codes. Codes cannot be dumped while you are driving the car.

    You can post you codes here and I will try to see that you get the 5.0 Mustang specific interpretations.

    If you want the generic interpretations, see
  3. I had my codes read and I wasnt really sure what they meant either. Maybe you can help me. First off I have a Victor 5.0 intake and no EGR, a C4 transmission(was a 5spd car) and no cats. I have O2 sensors on the headers but not the ones normally behind the cats. I had my codes checked with Engine off. One was a 14 or 15 code and the others were a lean limit condition and 2 speed sensor codes, and one was a code about the EGR. Is there anything I can do to make these codes go away?
  4. Please do not hijack someone's current open thread, it is bad manners.

    Start your own thread and post all the actual code numbers and I will try to help you.
  5. checkers sell a code checker for 30 bucks it is easy to use
  6. What does code 98 (Did not pass KOEO yet (Get 11 in KOEO first)) mean for a 1991 Ford Mustang V8?

    Thanks in advance,
  7. Reviving this thread because I have a question about code readers.

    What does a Ford specific code reader, such as the Equus one sold at Sears, do better for a ford than another code reader that isn't specific to any other brand? Should I get just the ford digita reader for some reason? I saw one that uses both obd I and II that didn't specify any make or model. I figured I could use it on my girlfriend's scion as well. need some feedback on this though as I am not sure and really need to spend my money where it serves best right now.
  8. As long as it specifies that it will pull codes on your year of vehicle, it should be fine.

    Generally when it comes to OBD-I readers, the ones that read multiple Makes are more expensive, hence why many guys get the Ford-specific reader.
  9. ahhh ok thanks! I was about to buy one today but didn't because I wasn't sure. but it's a good thing I didn't because I realized I had NOT paid the phone bill
    yet lol so I have less money than I thought... X_x

    stupid bills and responsibilities...!
  10. That's why I am cheap and stick to the paper clip or jumper wire method of dumping the codes...
  11. In like the 3145 and simple to use. Plus it gives you numbers...not blinks

    You do need the accessory cable though
  12. Why is it thought the accessory cable is needed? Never used one myself.
  13. OBD-1 I use the Snap-On MT2500

    Everything else I use the TechForce 2 from Cornwell.

    My Car....... Test Light and paper clip, dont even use the MT2500.

  14. Because you would then need to plug the reader in under the hood, but can't sit in the car to press in the clutch pedal or activate the cylinder balance test by blipping the throttle without assistance, or jumping back and forth.

    With the cable, I can sit in the car comfortable and do it all. Just personal preference really. You don't need it.

    If you want to combine an obd1 reader with an obd2 reader for modern cars, here's a decent scan tool
  15. Thanks for the clarification. When you said "need" initially, I didn't understand (I am one who jumps back and forth and/or gooses the throttle at the TB).
  16. Bad terminology on my part.

    I guess the right way to say it is that it makes life easier.