codes 44, 94,81,82,12,and more.

[my$100project]

I know holy cow right. I had run the scan tool from autozone a week ago and came up with 3 codes. Replaced the most improtant item. The o2 sensors. The light went away. So, Today I decide to run a real scan tool up to the system, with no light present. So I reset the computer, delete all codes. Take the vehicle out drive it to operating temp, bring it into the shop and I got the following codes.
KOEO codes
67 PNP or clutch switch ckt failure
81 Thermactor Direct bypass
82" "

KOER-60 second test Scan test
12 Can't CTRl RPM
94 CCC/ss4 CKT fault/ Thermactor air inop
44 thermactor air system not working.
I know that 81 82 94 and 44 are all probably indirectly tied together. I'm not sure if the thermactor air system is tied to the pnp circuit? Hell, I'm not even sure what the thermactor air system is.
I was running other codes
I was getting code 81 before which autozones tool said was IAC circuit.
So before resetting Codes I tested my iac solenoid at the tb.
I pulled the Harness to the IAC (two prong) I have more than the 10.5V it calls for KOEO, then it would rapidly drop (Did not test while cranking or vehicle running). I also pulled the Solenoid off the TB and checked it's resistance. The computer told me anywhere between 50-100 ohms is acceptable. If I would check it would jump to somewhere around 53 ohms then would rapidly drop lower down to somewhere around 8-9 ohms. I would take the Ohm meter off. Wait a few seonds and try again. This time it would read around 27 ohms then drop to 8-9 ohms. If I let it sit a for more than 5-6 seconds it would go to around 50-55 then drop rapidly back down. The test instructions did not stat if it would have a continuous resistance of around 50-100 ohms or just a quick resistance and a rapid drop?

 

[jrichker]

Code 12 -Idle Air Bypass motor not controlling idle properly (generally idle too low) - IAB dirty or not working. Take it off and clean it thoroughly with throttle body cleaner. Clean the electrical contacts with non flammable brake parts cleaner at the same time.


Codes 94 & 44 - AIR system inoperative - Air Injection. Check vacuum lines for leaks, & cracks. Disconnect the big hose from smog pump: with the engine running you should feel air output. Reconnect the smog pump hose & apply vacuum to the first vacuum controlled valve: Its purpose is to either dump the pump's output to the atmosphere or pass it to the next valve. The next vacuum controlled valve directs the air to either the cylinder heads when the engine is cold or to the catalytic converter when the engine is warm. Disconnect the big hoses from the back side of the vacuum controlled valve and start the engine. Apply vacuum to the valve and see if the airflow changes from one hose to the next.
The two electrical controlled vacuum valves mounted on the rear of the passenger side wheelwell turn the vacuum on & off under computer control. Check to see that both valves have +12 volts on the red wire. Then ground the white/red wire and the first solenoid should open and pass vacuum. Do the same thing to the light green/black wire on the second solenoid and it should open and pass vacuum.

Remember that the computer does not source power for any actuator or relay, but provides the ground necessary to complete the circuit. That means one side of the circuit will always be hot, and the other side will go to ground or below 1 volt as the computer switches on that circuit.

The computer provides the ground to complete the circuit to power the solenoid valve that turns the vacuum on or off. The computer is located under the passenger side kick panel. Remove the kick panel & the cover over the computer wiring connector pins. Check Pin 38 Solenoid valve #1 that provides vacuum to the first Thermactor control valve for a switch from 12-14 volts to 1 volt or less. Do the same with pin 32 solenoid valve #2 that provides vacuum to the second Thermactor control valve. Starting the engine with the computer jumpered to self test mode will cause all the actuators to toggle on and off. If after doing this and you see no switching of the voltage on and off, you can start testing the wiring for shorts to ground and broken wiring. An Ohm check to ground with the computer connector disconnected & the solenoid valves disconnected should show open circuit between the pin 32 and ground and again on pin 38 and ground. In like manner, there should be less than 1 ohm between pin 32 and solenoid valve #2 and pin 38 & Solenoid valve #1.

If after checking the resistance of the wiring & you are sure that there are no wiring faults, start looking at the solenoid valves. If you disconnect them, you can jumper power & ground to them to verify operation. Power & ground supplied should turn on the vacuum flow, remove either one and the vacuum should stop flowing.
See the following website for some help from Tmoss (diagram designer) & Stang&2Birds (website host)

http://www.veryuseful.com/mustang/tech/engine/images/fuel-alt-links-ign-ac.gif

http://www.veryuseful.com/mustang/tech/engine/images/88-91eecPinout.gif

Code 67 - clutch not depressed (5 speed) or car not in neutral or park (auto) or A/C in On position when codes where dumped. Possible neutral safety switch or wiring problem. This code may prevent you from running the Key On Engine On tests. You can generally ignore this code, since it has no effect on engine performance.

Code 81 – Secondary Air Injection Diverter Solenoid failure AM2. The solenoid valve located on the back side of the passenger side wheel well is not functional. Possible bad wiring, bad connections, missing or defective solenoid valve. Check the solenoid valve for +12 volts at the Red wire and look for the Lt Green/Black wire to switch from +12 volts to 1 volt or less. The computer controls the valve by providing a ground path on the LT Green/Black wire for the solenoid valve.

See http://www.veryuseful.com/mustang/t...ng5.0Vacuum.gif for help on the vacuum line plumbing.

Code 82 – Secondary Air Injection Diverter Solenoid failure AM1. The dump valve air diverter valve (front vacuum operated valve) isn’t working on the Thermactor Air System (smog pump). Look for broken or missing vacuum lines on the solenoid valve to the diverter valve Check the solenoid valve for +12 volts at the Red wire and look for the Red/White wire to switch from +12 volts to 1 volt or less. The computer controls the valve by providing a ground path on the Red/White wire for the solenoid valve.

 

[my$100project]

Once again you come through. I must leave for a few weeks -military- when I return I will update with my findings.