Funny how things work out sometimes. You do your best to make sure everything is done correctly (forged everything, clearances checked, no shortcuts done, making sure there is enough fuel and the correct amount of spark) and then BOOM...no compresssion in two cylinders You forget one little item and all goes to crapola
Not me, of course, but a buddy of mine somehow grenaded his brand new 331 (I personally put the heads, cam, and rear griggs stuff on this car and sold the idea of using a tweecerRT to get his car up and running). A call this morning...."dude..can you get me a tow..I just blew my motor". I get his car towed to my house and see the carnage (flame on pistons..busted valves....headgaskets..what headgaskets..they were melted on 5 and 6 Anyway buddy goes up and down and tells me he had it tuned "rich" with not a lot of timing...looked at this tune files and I see 11.5-11.9's across the board with max initial timing somewhere around 20 degrees. My first comment was...."well that was what your commanding to try to reach, but what was actual? He says, "Actual? What do you mean actual? All I tell him was you were tuning with blinds on...how did you make sure that was your actual a/f ratio?
I've searched and I did not get any hits, but what is everyone's variations on what is commanded on your a/f ratios (tweecer) versus what registers on your wideband (assuming your wideband is accurate and calibrated correctly)? I sort of just want to make it a point to new self tuners that what is commanded in your aftermarket tuning device is not what you should really go by when looking for the optimal a/f ratio (especially important on your blown or turbo motor). Looking at my w/b readings I am about .4+(-) commanded versus actual on the fuel tables.
I would work for leaning/richening the maf transfer, but for those who are stuck on the tables this should be a really important issue.
So anyway...thoughts...opinions.....
Not me, of course, but a buddy of mine somehow grenaded his brand new 331 (I personally put the heads, cam, and rear griggs stuff on this car and sold the idea of using a tweecerRT to get his car up and running). A call this morning...."dude..can you get me a tow..I just blew my motor". I get his car towed to my house and see the carnage (flame on pistons..busted valves....headgaskets..what headgaskets..they were melted on 5 and 6 Anyway buddy goes up and down and tells me he had it tuned "rich" with not a lot of timing...looked at this tune files and I see 11.5-11.9's across the board with max initial timing somewhere around 20 degrees. My first comment was...."well that was what your commanding to try to reach, but what was actual? He says, "Actual? What do you mean actual? All I tell him was you were tuning with blinds on...how did you make sure that was your actual a/f ratio?
I've searched and I did not get any hits, but what is everyone's variations on what is commanded on your a/f ratios (tweecer) versus what registers on your wideband (assuming your wideband is accurate and calibrated correctly)? I sort of just want to make it a point to new self tuners that what is commanded in your aftermarket tuning device is not what you should really go by when looking for the optimal a/f ratio (especially important on your blown or turbo motor). Looking at my w/b readings I am about .4+(-) commanded versus actual on the fuel tables.
I would work for leaning/richening the maf transfer, but for those who are stuck on the tables this should be a really important issue.
So anyway...thoughts...opinions.....