Comp Cams

I purchased some mild cams for my 4.6 - they will be installed next week but I was wondering how difficult it was to install them. I bought the Stage 1 which seems to be the easiest to install but I have also read that the stock cam gear bolts are a different size thread - but that is not an issue, I can get the right size. I guess my real question is... are these cams compatible with my stock cam gears?
 
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You need to send the cams off to be properly degreed. (or do it yourself). Modular head service is the best as most big places that offer the service usually outsource it to them. IF you're going to attempt it yourself, buy new bolts as they are torque to yield IIRC.

The cam install process is not hard but you need to have some technical savvy to attempt. The key is to have the cams degreed properly for the car to run right.

And yes, the stock cam gears are compatible. Odds are if you degree them you will need an adjustable crank gear for proper alignment.
 
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The wheels are all the same. What you need is a 2v degree kit (solid lash adjuster and different style follower).
http://www.modularheadshop.com/camdegree.aspx

I highly suggest sending the new cams to MHS and buying a set of stock cam gears from them (cheap) and then you'll likely need a set of adjustable crank gears to get the cams fully dialed in. Every set I've installed were at 108 and 110 so an adjustable crank gear was needed to dial them in perfectly. You want them within 1 degree of each other, preferably dead on. I do not recommend it for someone who's never attempted before, the learning curve is expensive if messed up. However, the link provided above does give a great step by step. I personally send all cams to MHS then install according to their specs (results etc). Good Luck.
 
Oh okay, that link definitely helps out a lot. We should be putting them in soon, hopefully this week. He is ordering the COMP CAMS degree kit also so hopefully this makes it a lot easier. Thanks again for the information!
 
I did my own in my old 96GT. It's a bit of a project but not too bad if you have basic hand tools. Mine had press-on gears so I just removed the old cams and and installed the new Comp 262's in the same position. If you go with a bigger cam then recommendation is to have them degreed to avoid piston to valve contact. I didn't have any issues. You will also need a tune to get the full effect. I gained just over 35HP with cams and tune.
 
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I did my own in my old 96GT. It's a bit of a project but not too bad if you have basic hand tools. Mine had press-on gears so I just removed the old cams and and installed the new Comp 262's in the same position. If you go with a bigger cam then recommendation is to have them degreed to avoid piston to valve contact. I didn't have any issues. You will also need a tune to get the full effect. I gained just over 35HP with cams and tune.

Thank you for the information :) I am having my cams put in this week and degreed. Hope all turns out well.
 
You need to send the cams off to be properly degreed. (or do it yourself). Modular head service is the best as most big places that offer the service usually outsource it to them. IF you're going to attempt it yourself, buy new bolts as they are torque to yield IIRC.

The cam install process is not hard but you need to have some technical savvy to attempt. The key is to have the cams degreed properly for the car to run right.

And yes, the stock cam gears are compatible. Odds are if you degree them you will need an adjustable crank gear for proper alignment.

Holy smokes, Squeak! Haven't seen you around these parts in ages! Good to see you around.

As to the OP, the cams absolutely need to be degreed in. I used to be of the opinion that it wasn't that important, but after I put my cams in and they were off by SIX degrees, I realized just how important it was. Mine were 6 degrees retarded, which wouldn't have hurt anything other than power, but if they happened to have been 6 degrees advanced and I installed them straight up (i.e. without degreeing), I'd likely be pulling everything back apart to fix the broken valves....

With enough time and patience, and the right tools, I think most anyone that is somewhat mechanically inclined can degree in cams. It's not a very technically challenging task, just one that takes some attention to detail. However, I'd echo Squeak's comments that it may not be the best idea for someone to try on their first time even having the valve covers off. I'd opt to pay someone else to do it in that case.

The TFS adjustable crank gears are by far the easiest and best way to degree the cams in. Don't use the adjustable cam gears.

I believe that a tune is required to get the most out of a set of cams. No major changes are needed for a mild cam, but there are some small things I'd adjust if it were my car. Idle quality, part throttle responsiveness, fuel mileage, and overall power output will suffer if the tune isn't tweaked a bit.
 
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Holy smokes, Squeak! Haven't seen you around these parts in ages! Good to see you around.

As to the OP, the cams absolutely need to be degreed in. I used to be of the opinion that it wasn't that important, but after I put my cams in and they were off by SIX degrees, I realized just how important it was. Mine were 6 degrees retarded, which wouldn't have hurt anything other than power, but if they happened to have been 6 degrees advanced and I installed them straight up (i.e. without degreeing), I'd likely be pulling everything back apart to fix the broken valves....

With enough time and patience, and the right tools, I think most anyone that is somewhat mechanically inclined can degree in cams. It's not a very technically challenging task, just one that takes some attention to detail. However, I'd echo Squeak's comments that it may not be the best idea for someone to try on their first time even having the valve covers off. I'd opt to pay someone else to do it in that case.

The TFS adjustable crank gears are by far the easiest and best way to degree the cams in. Don't use the adjustable cam gears.

I believe that a tune is required to get the most out of a set of cams. No major changes are needed for a mild cam, but there are some small things I'd adjust if it were my car. Idle quality, part throttle responsiveness, fuel mileage, and overall power output will suffer if the tune isn't tweaked a bit.
We purchased the degree wheel kit from Comp Cams - pretty much has everything in it that we need. We had to buy new bolts because the stock bolts were too small. Would you recommend buying a new timing chain also? Oh and as for the tune - I will having a tune done as soon as I have everything on. I was kind of disappointed that I went with the mildest cam but then again I didn't want anything too aggressive since it's just a daily driver. I want to get a 75mm throttle body also but I don't know how much of a difference it would really make on the little old GT.
It will be my boyfriend's first time installing an aftermarket cam - he is a mechanic at Ford so he knows what he is doing all the way up to degreeing, but we have the video and instructions so hopefully all turns out well.
 
We purchased the degree wheel kit from Comp Cams - pretty much has everything in it that we need. We had to buy new bolts because the stock bolts were too small. Would you recommend buying a new timing chain also? Oh and as for the tune - I will having a tune done as soon as I have everything on. I was kind of disappointed that I went with the mildest cam but then again I didn't want anything too aggressive since it's just a daily driver. I want to get a 75mm throttle body also but I don't know how much of a difference it would really make on the little old GT.
It will be my boyfriend's first time installing an aftermarket cam - he is a mechanic at Ford so he knows what he is doing all the way up to degreeing, but we have the video and instructions so hopefully all turns out well.

If he's a mechanic, he'll be fine. Just go slowly on the degreeing part and it'll all be fine.

The stage 1 Comp cam is probably the best option for a stock head, stock PI intake street car. It's going to make power until about 6200-6300 rpm, which is about where the stock PI intake and heads stop making power, too. So it matches up perfectly, and will not sacrifice any power down low. An under-cammed car will always outperform an over-cammed car.

A 75 mm throttle body and matching plenum will pick up noticeable power for sure.
 
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Oh, and your question about replacing the timing chain. How many miles are on the car? If it's around or over 100k, I'd go ahead and replace them and the guides. From my personal experiences, timing chain and/or guide failure is the most common total engine failure on these cars. It's been a while since I bought it, but I seem to remember a TFS kit that had the chains and guides for fairly cheap, less than $100 for sure.
 
Oh yeah it has about 139k on it so we will definitely be buying a new chain. Thanks for the information on that!!! Have you heard any good things about the BBK tb? I was thinking about going with BBK instead of Accufab but I am not sure yet as far as quality.
 
I have an uber-cheap Stack Racing TB that has been on the car for over 5 years now. Has held up perfectly. I'm sure any of them will be fine, and I think the Accufab is way overpriced.

If you go with BBK, I'd opt for the 78 mm TB/plenum combo. It's the throttle body and upper plenum all cast in a single part. I think it's looks really nice, and I personally know several people who have had great luck with it.
 
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I'm assuming this is on an '01 GT that is in your name and sig?

If so, with those mods, I'd say 275 on the tires, give or take. Add the TB / plenum, and it'd guess around 290. Under drive pulleys would probably get another 5 or so. A 100% full bolt on car with cams is typically 290-300 depending on the dyno.

All that being said, don't be disappointed if the dyno doesn't show those exact numbers. Dynos can be stingy, the weather can hurt it a bit, the operator can manipulate them a bit, or other things can make it seem low. Track results are the only real indicator of actual power being made. And that setup with a good driver and/or good tires should run 12s in the 1/4, which is a very quick naturally aspirated street car.
 
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I'm assuming this is on an '01 GT that is in your name and sig?

If so, with those mods, I'd say 275 on the tires, give or take. Add the TB / plenum, and it'd guess around 290. Under drive pulleys would probably get another 5 or so. A 100% full bolt on car with cams is typically 290-300 depending on the dyno.

All that being said, don't be disappointed if the dyno doesn't show those exact numbers. Dynos can be stingy, the weather can hurt it a bit, the operator can manipulate them a bit, or other things can make it seem low. Track results are the only real indicator of actual power being made. And that setup with a good driver and/or good tires should run 12s in the 1/4, which is a very quick naturally aspirated street car.

Well looks like I will be putting 275 on the tires instead of the 305 in the rear - but 290 is still good! Luckily I already bought my SCT tuner. You are from NC correct? Have you ever been to Pro Dyno?
 
Well looks like I will be putting 275 on the tires instead of the 305 in the rear - but 290 is still good! Luckily I already bought my SCT tuner. You are from NC correct? Have you ever been to Pro Dyno?

Like I said, I wouldn't worry too much about the numbers. A couple clicks of the mouse can easily change the numbers by 6-8%. The real test is how it drives (idle quality, part throttle characteristics, fuel mileage, etc.) and how it runs at the track.

Yes, I'm currently in Raleigh. I've never been there, but I have several friends who have had their cars tuned by Dan at Pro Dyno. I haven't heard any complaints. The only thing I've noticed with him is that his numbers are STD corrected (vs. SAE), and STD reads about 4% higher than SAE. Not a big deal, but a little pet peave of mine when tuners use that to make it look like the car is making more power than it actually is.
 
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