Fuel Complete Fuel System

Discussion in 'Fox 5.0 Mustang Tech' started by McDirty, Jan 21, 2014.

  1. All good info thanks guys. so the thread is jumping topic a little but since heads are being brought up my general understanding is the bigger CC you go I.E. 205 ,225 you begin to loose the low end and start giving up your torque. So my question is what would be a balanced set of heads that will increase power but still have some of that low end snap
  2. In generalities that's true but not completely accurate. It's the total combination of parts that determine power band(cam,heads,intake,). With an e cam it basically has a powerband of 2500-5500 for example(yes you can spin it higher but not efficiently). If you really aren't ever going to build much more than the 306 and spin it under 6500 go with a head between 165cc-190cc. I'm to lazy to read back posts but you did say you wanted a high winding motor didn't you?
    Grabbin' Asphalt likes this.
  3. yes but not this motor im rebuilding this one just to have a reliable semi- powerful engine while i build the dart block.. so for this rebuild i plan on doing an underdrive kit, roller rocker arms, smog eliminator, bigger oil pan, better oil and fuel pump, and a rear seat delete kit..if you guys have any suggestions please feel free to share.
  4. so what you're saying you are not getting heads?? ...your cam, heads intake is determined by your powerband expectations as stated above.
  5. oh sorry i forgot to put that in. i agree with what you said. no sense in buying heads twice. so i need to figure out which ones to go with that will work for both motors
  6. The 205cc head is what I recommend. You won't notice the low speed "lag" and the 306 will scream up top. And they will be perfect for anything you do later
    stangboy likes this.
  7. Unless you already bought the underdrive pulleys don't worry about putting them on. They cause charging issues and really only free up a few hp that you won't even notice on the street. Same with the rear seat delete. Unless you're racing why do it? Just my opinion. Now if it's something you plan on as an ongoing process towards weight savings for "again" racing then by all means go for it but for a street car...bleh! Don't take me wrong it's your car do what you want/like.
    GoldenEagle91 likes this.
  8. awesome thanks for the advice
  9. il atleast need to replace the pulleys attached to everything because it sounds like they are starting to sieze up, as far as the rear delete kit it is because im keeping more street oreintated and im never going to have people in the back seats so it just seems like a smart thing to do.. i guess we'll see when the time comes
  10. The pulleys have no bearings attached, if something is screwed up it's not related to underdrive pulleys.

    With that said, concentrate on doing one engine and doing it right.
    So many people come here with these pipe dreams about bigger and better later, probably less than 5% ever get to that point, And when they do it's miles apart from using basic 302 parts.

    A dart based engine with quality parts is a 10k project by itself, then you need a car that will support that much power without killing you or destroying itself (trans, brakes, rear, suspension).
    So, if you don't have 15-20 thousand dollars sitting around waiting to be spent on your car, just build a good 306 based setup while concentrating on getting the whole car right.

    If you really want to use the same heads in the future, buy twisted wedges and when you get your 363 have TEA cnc them.

    And removing the back seat is not only pointless, but looks horrible.
    #30 2000xp8, Jan 22, 2014
    Last edited: Jan 22, 2014
    88LX5.Oh likes this.
  11. It never occured to me that the pulleys didnt have bearings i just remember on my old brono that the a/c pulley seized up and now my alternator in my mustang is beginning to make a similiar sound. so i figured by replacing all the pulleys while the motor is pulled would be wise

    Finances are'nt what im worried about its the know how, and thats why im here. That and to be part of a group that shares the same love for these cars as i do and hopefully finding some people that are near my area.

    I dont see how removing that back seats are pointless. If weight is something your worried about, than removing non key components such as rear seats would lighten the vehicle. As far as it looking horrible, to each his own
  12. If money is not the issue, why build 2 engines and not just the dart based engine? Other than money building a 363 is not much different than a 302. Same principles apply, it's just that the stroker with a race block and supporting parts cost 4-5 times as much. No different know how required.

    The rear seat weighs very little, and i'm part of the club that has removed the rear seat, realized how dumb of an idea it was and then had to put it back in. Quite a few people here in that group. Besides rear seat deletes usually aren't very light.
    Not to mention in a car with the weight bias of a fox, removing any weight from the rear of the car is generally a bad idea.

    Having a tough time remembering, but i think the only bearing that is replaceable is in the tensioner.
  13. Aside from being able to drive my car while I spend time on building a motor that's going to take awhile to build your right there isn't much point in building two motors but that's how I want to do it. I'd rather screw up on a stock block than a 3k-4k block. Its a learning experience for me.

    And if removing weight from the rear of the vehicle is bad and adding a rear seat delete kit adds weight than once again how is doing a rear seat delete kit a bad thing?
  14. Depends on how you delete it. Many use wood, some just use nothing but carpet, the latter is lighter.

    What exactly is wrong with your current engine that you are pulling it?
  15. Ok so back to a fuel related question. Lets say a motor is good for 30# inj what would be the consequences of throwing 60#inj. In it
  16. with a good tune, nothing. Without, you'll be throwing too much fuel at it, it'll run lik poo poo, and you'll probably wash down our cylinder walls with fuel leading to an untimely death and your banishment on this site
    88LX5.Oh and A5literMan like this.
  17. Haha alright good to know
  18. ok so i was looking through other threads and couldnt find an answer. I know its not fuel related but i didnt want to start a whole new post. I have a 351w on a stand and i was wondering if those heads would fit on the 306? would it be an improvement? im still looking at a new set of heads i was just curious.
  19. Just go buy you some GT40 or GT40P heads from a junk yard.
    Those 351 heads are no different than your current ones. I think in 1977 Ford started using the same exact castings for their 351 and 302 heads
  20. Ok thank you for the info