Continuing on to my other projects thread

[7991LXnSHO]

The Band Wagon’s wheel is the one with the clear coat coming off. The other 3 look much better while this one looks worse in direct sunlight with yellowing and missing coating . The Merc wheels and center caps are all pitted about like this one.
(Oh, even though these are not on a Mustang, it’s half about a Ford, and a lot of us have factory or aftermarket aluminum wheels.)

 

[revhead347]

The Band Wagon’s wheel is the one with the clear coat coming off. The other 3 look much better while this one looks worse in direct sunlight with yellowing and missing coating . The Merc wheels and center caps are all pitted about like this one.
(Oh, even though these are not on a Mustang, it’s half about a Ford, and a lot of us have factory or aftermarket aluminum wheels.)

Looks like a good set of wheels to practice in. If you really take your time, you can vaseline all the black in the center cap and spray it all. Then go back and do the opposite. Then spray it with a clear coat of Duplicolor engine enamel. That stuff is pretty hard. I paint everything with engine enamel. I have used that aircraft paint stripper; it's garbage. You know it's garbage because if you spray it on your skin, you can't even feel it. I use the heavy duty Kleenstrip from Home Depot; the stuff that is like a gel, and has lumps in it. Don't get that on your skin. It's just like "Fight Club," if you get in on your skin it burns like hell, but if you pour water on it, it accelerates the burn, and it's like getting lit on fire. You have to keep a cannister of baking soda close by to neutralize a skin burn before you wash it off. That Kleenstrip bubbles the paint off of anything, and is incredible. I actually told Tmoss about the stuff years ago, and he was thoroughly impressed.

Kurt

 

[7991LXnSHO]

It probably was Kleanstrip from ACE Hardware I last used on a manifold and a mahogany writing desk. It ate through two layers of nitrile rubber gloves and was a nasty cold burn feeling! Another subject forum recommended the other product for baked on epoxy, but I can stick with what I know works.

The silver, high temp engine paint I used on two manifolds and the air tubes would match the non polished part of the Band Wagon’s wheels well and cover the parts that should be polished. I foresee a project or two with the kids.
I hope my pony wheels keep looking nice, and know now what to do if they do not.

 

[revhead347]

You have to have the thick rubber gloves. It eats through nitrile instantly.

I know I am oversharing this picture, but I have been working with the little one too.

Kurt

 

[Blown88GT]

I stripped the clearcoat from my aluminum wheels when the clearcoat turned green. Aircraft stripper will not damage the aluminum or the rubber. I kept the wheels clean & protected with aluminum polish. What the stripper didn't remove, 320 & 600 grit wet/dry sandpaper did.
After 25 years, I'm selling them.

SOLD - 4-Lug 16inch Wheels & Bridgestone Tires

CSA 16x8 cast polished aluminum wheels. Similar style is ROH, same company. Made in Australia. Same wheel used on various GM vehicles. 4 Lug Design for early Foxbodies, T-Birds, etc. No spacers or adapters needed. Center covers are aluminum & totally cover any lugnut you choose. They attach...

www.stangnet.com

 

[7991LXnSHO]

Although my Merc rims still need some attention this spring, The other rims are no longer a concern. The Band Wagon (2005 Grand Caravan with about 150k mikes) is awaiting it's death sentence of totalled. My family members that were inside were shaken up but seemed to be just sore last night. The van was T-boned by a smaller sedan hard enough to spin it three times. (How fast was traffic going to do that, as the sedan was also rear ended?). The back passenger door, rocker panel, lower quarter, and rear pillar did not bend enough to break glass or seriously intrude into the passenger space (a few inches and some nickel next to the stow and go pocket, is all). it's 15 years old, and before yesterday, the paint and interior lookeed almost new with no rust at all. The transmission, engine and the rest received enough regular preventative maintenance to be babied. The new, front passenger, tire popped the bead, the rim drug on the pavement. The front wheels are pointing way too far to the left, and there was PS or transmission fluid dripping from the passenger side of the air dam and left a nice puddle at the scene. The pillar behind the sliding door was moved in, and the back side window popped open when the sliding door got pushed into its space. And the back passenger rim has pavement gouges and maay not be in the right place or angle eirher. But the tire is still full. An adjuster with the insurance company., but not assigned to the case was on the lot for another vehicle. He took a look, and told us to take everything and the plates The damage, while fixable, would cost 4x the value is of a 15 year old van, even with all the features and in very good condition.
I was not planning on replacing it for a long time. But if the verdict after inspection is dead, I am not going to be able to help rebuild it. A frame shop and tools for welding replacement sections in are not things I currently own. And even with four changes, the transmissions are time bombs in them.

 

[7991LXnSHO]

Assuming the worst, we will need a vehicle that seats at least 4 and has room for a dog crate. I am not specifically attached to Dodge (our first Caravan was an electrical nightmare, but this one was little trouble there). I probably will be looking for a three to five year old vehicle in good condition. A newer Caravan is on the list, as not much else for the price can haul seven people and gear or a 4x8 piece of plywood and boards longer than 10' by just folding the seats down.
My wife has been thinking about a Kia Soul with running around town. I do not want to go 40 minutes one way to a dealership for specialized parts and repairs, so that is not at the top of my list.. I am not sure if there is a Honda or Toyota dealership here. Bobby Likus recommended staying away from recent GM fuel injection because of carbon buildup, and the Ford crossovers my parents have need to be disassembled to even change the battery..
So current mechanics, what are your thoughts of recent vehicles to avoid or to consider?

 

[Ryuk]

We used to have a Sienna and downsized to the Highlander. My wife wishes she still had a Sienna for the space. Driving and parking are no different, but more stuff fits in the Sienna. We had a Honda Odyssey for about a year and the wife hated it.

 

[MustangIIMatt]

So current mechanics, what are your thoughts of recent vehicles to avoid or to consider?

https://www.stangnet.com/mustang-forums/threads/used-car-reviews-or-just-the-rantings-of-a-madman.893390/

https://www.stangnet.com/mustang-forums/threads/list-of-murican-suvs-and-crossovers.897587/

The Kia Soul is a genuinely good car. Very durable and reliable, easy to work on, great on gas, ugly as hell on the outside but real nice inside, and amazingly roomy. I'd actually recommend it, just don't get one with a turbo or a stick, those seem to have more issues.

What to avoid?

EVERYTHING European. They all need special tools, even for damned oil changes.

Nissans with CVT transmissions (they STILL haven't figured them out).

FWD/AWD Fords with the 3.5/3.7 V6 (the water pump will fail without warning and dump the coolant into the oil pan, it usually happens on the highway and takes out the main bearings before you realize what's happened).

GM full-size FWD/AWD SUVs (Acadia, Traverse, Enclave, Outlook, SRX) the engines in these are junk, and anything below the valvecovers requires dropping the powertrain out to access. The front suspensions are horrendous, and they're prone to evap and electrical issues.

3.5L Honda/Acura products (if the outrageously expensive catalytic converters don't fail, the transmission will).

Everything Jeep not called Wrangler or Grand Cherokee, and even there, avoid the 3.7, 4.7, and early (pre 2014) 3.6 engines (unless the owner can provide proof of the upgraded driver's side cylinder head).

Everything Dodge except the Charger, Magnum, Ram, Durango and Grand Caravan (again, avoid the 3.7 and 4.7, as well as the 2.7 and early (pre 2014) 3.6 engines (unless the owner can provide proof of the upgraded driver's side cylinder head).

Everything Chrysler except the 300 (avoid the 2.7and early (pre 2014) 3.6 engines (unless the owner can provide proof of the upgraded driver's side cylinder head) and the Town and Country. (I didn't mention Caravan or T&C transmission issues since you're well aware, but even with said issues, they're one of the best bargains in people-hauling, often being enough cheaper than their better Asian counterparts to buy the transmission rebuild too and still come out ahead financially).

Small GM SUVs (I almost didn't put this one. They're a very mixed bag. Some people like @IIGood get a quarter million miles out of an Equinox or it's siblings, others have problems from day one.)

Ford EcoSport (Made in India, and India is the new China in manufacturing... I've worked on two, and they were only maintenance, but I'd wait to see what they're like long-term).

Dodge Journey (all of the transmission issues of a Grand Caravan/Town & Country with none of the upside or resale value).

If you want to pick my brain on any specific model, hit me up. 4+ years in the used car recon game and 15 overall working on cars means I've put a wrench on just about everything at one time or another (even a Bentley).

 

[7991LXnSHO]

https://www.stangnet.com/mustang-forums/threads/used-car-reviews-or-just-the-rantings-of-a-madman.893390/

https://www.stangnet.com/mustang-forums/threads/list-of-murican-suvs-and-crossovers.897587/

The Kia Soul is a genuinely good car. Very durable and reliable, easy to work on, great on gas, ugly as hell on the outside but real nice inside, and amazingly roomy. I'd actually recommend it, just don't get one with a turbo or a stick, those seem to have more issues.

What to avoid?

EVERYTHING European. They all need special tools, even for damned oil changes.

Nissans with CVT transmissions (they STILL haven't figured them out).

FWD/AWD Fords with the 3.5/3.7 V6 (the water pump will fail without warning and dump the coolant into the oil pan, it usually happens on the highway and takes out the main bearings before you realize what's happened).

GM full-size FWD/AWD SUVs (Acadia, Traverse, Enclave, Outlook, SRX) the engines in these are junk, and anything below the valvecovers requires dropping the powertrain out to access. The front suspensions are horrendous, and they're prone to evap and electrical issues.

3.5L Honda/Acura products (if the outrageously expensive catalytic converters don't fail, the transmission will).

Everything Jeep not called Wrangler or Grand Cherokee, and even there, avoid the 3.7, 4.7, and early (pre 2014) 3.6 engines (unless the owner can provide proof of the upgraded driver's side cylinder head).

Everything Dodge except the Charger, Magnum, Ram, Durango and Grand Caravan (again, avoid the 3.7 and 4.7, as well as the 2.7 and early (pre 2014) 3.6 engines (unless the owner can provide proof of the upgraded driver's side cylinder head).

Everything Chrysler except the 300 (avoid the 2.7and early (pre 2014) 3.6 engines (unless the owner can provide proof of the upgraded driver's side cylinder head) and the Town and Country. (I didn't mention Caravan or T&C transmission issues since you're well aware, but even with said issues, they're one of the best bargains in people-hauling, often being enough cheaper than their better Asian counterparts to buy the transmission rebuild too and still come out ahead financially).

Small GM SUVs (I almost didn't put this one. They're a very mixed bag. Some people like @IIGood get a quarter million miles out of an Equinox or it's siblings, others have problems from day one.)

Ford EcoSport (Made in India, and India is the new China in manufacturing... I've worked on two, and they were only maintenance, but I'd wait to see what they're like long-term).

Dodge Journey (all of the transmission issues of a Grand Caravan/Town & Country with none of the upside or resale value).

If you want to pick my brain on any specific model, hit me up. 4+ years in the used car recon game and 15 overall working on cars means I've put a wrench on just about everything at one time or another (even a Bentley).

Thank you! I have been following that thread How are Toyota’s doing? The Scion boxy thing would be a competitor to the Soul.
The Soul is Pugly (like a pug, so ugly it’s cute, also like a Rambler.) I just wish there was a dealer closer.
I wish Ford still made something as reliable and as easy to work on as the Grand Marquis. Any reccomendations from them?

 

[MustangIIMatt]

Thank you! I have been following that thread How are Toyota’s doing? The Scion boxy thing would be a competitor to the Soul.
The Soul is Pugly (like a pug, so ugly it’s cute, also like a Rambler.) I just wish there was a dealer closer.
I wish Ford still made something as reliable and as easy to work on as the Grand Marquis. Any reccomendations from them?

Most of Toyota's lineup is virtually indestructible, but there are some quirks.

The 3.5 in their luxury cars, Highlander, and Sienna leak oil at a banjo bolt on the back of the engine.

4Runner/GX470/GX460 brakes can be noisy.

The whole Scion lineup is bulletproof. They built them to market and sell to young people to make Toyota buyers for life out of them, and it worked. The XB might be the toughest of them, I had a co-worker put a lift kit and off-road tires on one I dubbed the "2Runner", the extra weight and altered suspension geometry didn't phase it.

2.4 Camrys were prone to a VVT solenoid failure. Caught early the fix is easy, if the owner ignores it, it becomes a major issue.

 

[7991LXnSHO]

https://www.stangnet.com/mustang-forums/threads/used-car-reviews-or-just-the-rantings-of-a-madman.893390/

https://www.stangnet.com/mustang-forums/threads/list-of-murican-suvs-and-crossovers.897587/

The Kia Soul is a genuinely good car. Very durable and reliable, easy to work on, great on gas, ugly as hell on the outside but real nice inside, and amazingly roomy. I'd actually recommend it, just don't get one with a turbo or a stick, those seem to have more issues.

What to avoid?

EVERYTHING European. They all need special tools, even for damned oil changes.

Nissans with CVT transmissions (they STILL haven't figured them out).

FWD/AWD Fords with the 3.5/3.7 V6 (the water pump will fail without warning and dump the coolant into the oil pan, it usually happens on the highway and takes out the main bearings before you realize what's happened).

GM full-size FWD/AWD SUVs (Acadia, Traverse, Enclave, Outlook, SRX) the engines in these are junk, and anything below the valvecovers requires dropping the powertrain out to access. The front suspensions are horrendous, and they're prone to evap and electrical issues.

3.5L Honda/Acura products (if the outrageously expensive catalytic converters don't fail, the transmission will).

Everything Jeep not called Wrangler or Grand Cherokee, and even there, avoid the 3.7, 4.7, and early (pre 2014) 3.6 engines (unless the owner can provide proof of the upgraded driver's side cylinder head).

Everything Dodge except the Charger, Magnum, Ram, Durango and Grand Caravan (again, avoid the 3.7 and 4.7, as well as the 2.7 and early (pre 2014) 3.6 engines (unless the owner can provide proof of the upgraded driver's side cylinder head).

Everything Chrysler except the 300 (avoid the 2.7and early (pre 2014) 3.6 engines (unless the owner can provide proof of the upgraded driver's side cylinder head) and the Town and Country. (I didn't mention Caravan or T&C transmission issues since you're well aware, but even with said issues, they're one of the best bargains in people-hauling, often being enough cheaper than their better Asian counterparts to buy the transmission rebuild too and still come out ahead financially).

Small GM SUVs (I almost didn't put this one. They're a very mixed bag. Some people like @IIGood get a quarter million miles out of an Equinox or it's siblings, others have problems from day one.)

Ford EcoSport (Made in India, and India is the new China in manufacturing... I've worked on two, and they were only maintenance, but I'd wait to see what they're like long-term).

Dodge Journey (all of the transmission issues of a Grand Caravan/Town & Country with none of the upside or resale value).

If you want to pick my brain on any specific model, hit me up. 4+ years in the used car recon game and 15 overall working on cars means I've put a wrench on just about everything at one time or another (even a Bentley).

My wife is wanting to test drive a Jeep Renegade. I prefer the looks of a Cherokee, but issues steered me away when the newer hood came out. Are they still having problems in addition to the previously mentioned engines?

I think the Renegade might be their ugliest model including history through the Willy’s snd AMC history, but it will not be my ride. Mechanical, body integrity and safety are more important factors.
If those of you that work on or resell either of these, your input might hold more weight than Consumer’s Report here. Thanks.

 

[7991LXnSHO]

The other option (besides driving down the interstate for service for a Soul or Scion/Toyota) is one of the Ford “not a car”things. My dad bought a 2016 Escape that looks new. Changing the battery sounds awful, and he’s saying something about a second fuel injector Ford changed to that he should have bought a 2017 to get he heard on Bobby Likus.
If we could agree on a Ford and find a good deal, I would like to buy American.
What’s the best Ford crossover/smaller suv that we could get 15 + years out of? Bonus points for room in the back for a cocker spaniel crate.

 

[MustangIIMatt]

My wife is wanting to test drive a Jeep Renegade. I prefer the looks of a Cherokee, but issues steered me away when the newer hood came out. Are they still having problems in addition to the previously mentioned engines?

I think the Renegade might be their ugliest model including history through the Willy’s snd AMC history, but it will not be my ride. Mechanical, body integrity and safety are more important factors.
If those of you that work on or resell either of these, your input might hold more weight than Consumer’s Report here. Thanks.

Renegade and Cherokee are both based on the Fiat 500X and are mostly crap. I've seen a simple battery exchange on a Renegade turn into a PCM replacement due to Fiat's garbage electronics.

As far as Escapes go, they're "okay". Oil changes are messy and annoying on some of them because Ford's so-called engineers ran the cooler hoses directly below the oil filter. The battery is a big PITA as well. The front brakes are also a European design similar to what is found on Jettas, so if you don't have a good 7mm allen socket and good thumb strength for the springs, you'll be paying someone to do brakes. I don't like them personally, but then again, I actually don't like most cars these days.

I'm not big on the Ford crossover lineup because the PTO for the AWD system is junk, and if you avoid that by going FWD, your engine choices in any of them larger than an Escape include a turbo 4-cylinder that feels overworked, a naturally-aspirated V6 with a fatal design flaw in the water pump, or a twin-turbo V6 that is an absolute beast until the water pump or turbos fail.

 

[7991LXnSHO]

So when the water pump fails on the V-6, what’s the collateral damage? Does it take out the timing belt like a Beetle? Does it require a power train drop to replace?

 

[HotFox]

Any option on the 2019 Chevrolet Malibu? I bought my wife one last fall it was a pep car with 3K miles, we now have 17K. Although it has the CVT which I was not thrilled about, so far it is a ok car. It has been back for warranty for cold start complaint, engine runs rough on cold start. Service manager after 3 days says this is completely normal. Engine is sluggish and almost feels like a missing fire, it acts lean until engine is warm.

 

[MustangIIMatt]

So when the water pump fails on the V-6, what’s the collateral damage? Does it take out the timing belt like a Beetle? Does it require a power train drop to replace?

It's driven by the timing chain. When it fails, it's usually a bearing in the pump that fails, causing the shaft to wobble, letting coolant push past the seals and into the crankcase. Ford has released revised parts but from what I've heard it only delays the issue rather than remedy it. The failure is usually near-instananeous, with little or no warning, and when it happens at highway cruising speeds you usually find out when the oil pressure light on the dash lights up. By then, main bearing, rod bearing, and camshaft saddle surfaces are usually already damaged.

 

[HemiRick]

timing chain driven water pumps are designed by the devil. What a horrible stupid idea. GM eco-tec 4 cyls also suffer from this problem. I refuse to work on them.

 

[MustangIIMatt]

timing chain driven water pumps are designed by the devil. What a horrible stupid idea. GM eco-tec 4 cyls also suffer from this problem. I refuse to work on them.

Depends on which eco-tec. All Eco-tecs are not created equal, as the German 1.4L version found in the Cruze and Sonic has an external water pump.

 

[MustangIIMatt]

Any option on the 2019 Chevrolet Malibu? I bought my wife one last fall it was a pep car with 3K miles, we now have 17K. Although it has the CVT which I was not thrilled about, so far it is a ok car. It has been back for warranty for cold start complaint, engine runs rough on cold start. Service manager after 3 days says this is completely normal. Engine is sluggish and almost feels like a missing fire, it acts lean until engine is warm.

Here's the thing about the Malibu, Cruze, Regal, and similar GM cars...

You're either going to NEVER have a problem with it and it'll be Toyota-like in it's reliability, or it'll be a turd from day one.

As far as GM stating that issue is "completely normal", it's not. Find another GM dealership.