Control arms on a budget?

Discussion in 'Fox 5.0 Mustang Tech' started by pissedoff92, Dec 5, 2011.

  1. Gearhead....chill man. I don't think MFE92 was attacking you, just informing you. The MM stuff is about as tough and heavy duty as it gets for entry level aftermarket suspension parts. Is it overkill....I guess that depends on your mindset. Some guys like that added security and don't mind spending the money on it. Yes, there are less...."robust" brands being sold that are still perfectly suitable for daily driven use, but if you did in fact say money wasn't an issue, you should expect all fingers to point to the top of the line? :shrug:
  2. "$75 for a new one unless ya can't swing it."

    "Money isn't an issue. After reading other posts, should I get a better PS rack? Go the more expensive route? From what I read some people have suggested that the Autozone parts aren't very good and one should spend the extra money for a rack. "

    He said unless ya can't swing it.....the $75, which isn't a lot of money. In that case money isn't an issue.

    The issue is too many people take things out of context. If everyone would just read that thread a few more times, try to understand the context in which I said money wasn't an issue.....and honestly it isn't an issue. If I wanted the top notch (MM) stuff I would buy it, but I have already stated my opinion and reasons on why I don't want the top notch racing parts. It is a street car. I want to have parts that are solid and can take to the street well, not the track.

    I apologize, MFE92, for sounding defensive. I just have an issue when people try to take my words out of context and or twist them. MFE92, you could have just given me the advice I asked for, instead of trying to catch me in some sort of contradiction. I said MM was out of the question, so why even bring it up again?

    I persoanlly was not leery of autozone parts, I was asking the question solely because I had read else where that a couple people thought they were cheap, although I also read the opposite.
  3. Anyways. Could we just get back to my original question. I'm here to learn and get advice. Not to argue.
  4. I happened to read your post in this thread immediately after reading your steering rack thread, where you appeared to be a person more interested in quality parts than in the cheapest price. You have somehow come to the conclusion that MM is "obviously" out of the question, and I asked a fair and honest question regarding what was so obvious about it, and you pitch a little hissy fit. It's still a fair question, and here's why.

    MM's non-adjustable LCA's list for $250. You had a non-hissy-fit response to somebody suggesting Steeda parts, and their LCA's list for $295...that's $45 more than MM, yet MM is "obviously" out of the question, and again, I ask the fair question...why is it obvious? Even UPR's are $180, only a $70 savings under the MM ones, and $70 seems to be well within your range of acceptable swing to get known good parts from an innovator, if I may be so inconsiderate as to once again reference your steering rack thread. Granatelli the ripoff-artist's ripoff LCA's are $226, that's only $24 less than MM's.

    So, of those four, MM's aren't even the most expensive, but to you, they're "obviously" out of the question, and I fairly and honestly wanted to know why it isn't so obvious to me, that's all, because maybe if I could help you think it through, you might find your conclusion was misguided. But that's OK, I won't bother you by taking your threads out of context, you carry on with your bad self and get what advice you can that doesn't offend you in its content or delivery.
  5. I see your point. And I apologize for my response.

    When I looked through MMs parts, I didn't find anything close to my price range, which is why I made the assumption that MM was out of the question. Although I will admit I didn't spend any lengthy time looking. I also trusted the threads I had been reading that MM is expensive and not necessary for street application. So I asked the question, aside from MM,who has quality parts that won't break my bank. I see now if I would have looked harder and done my own research, I would have figured out that my initial assumptions were wrong. And for that I admit I was wrong and I apologize for my childish response. I interpreted your response incorrectly.

    And you are correct, I am more concerned about quality parts than price, in most cases. I would prefer to save as much as I can while still upgrading to something of respectable quality. In the case of the steering rack, either I could have gotten a used one from another '88 Fox and put that in or spend the $75-100 and purchase a new one. From what I have read and been told the $75-100 steering racks are of good quality and they haven't had issues with them. So I decided to go with buying a new one, rather than a used one. As from what you have told me I will most certainly do more research before making assumptions from threads I read.

    Thank you for your help. Hopefully you continue to respond to my questions I post in the future.
  6. Before I get asked to leave... :D

    I just wanted to point out that, "street duty" parts take as much, if not more abuse than their average track only counter-parts. Why? Because they're expected to endure all the abuse of cornering, pot-holes, less than ideal setup, and don't have the added benefits of all other supporting pieces and parts than most drag setups are accustomed to seeing.

    Like a handful of others, I'm one of those folks that like to install and/or replace something one time. I don't want to be that guy that has to make a thread with pictures showing the ass end of my car sitting on the pavement because I was being thrifty. Regardless of brand... I want something that has a PILE of positive feedback from folks that used it for the purpose I intend. I don't have to be hit in the head to realize that negative feedback (particularly when consistent) isn't just the manufactured result of a few with nothing better to do.

    So when I hammer on my 500+ RWTQ street car... I don't want all that stuff floating around in my head and I certainly don't want to have to inspect every after market part with the the fall of the hammer (regardless of how good company X SAYS it's warranty is). It reminds me of the movie Black Sheep. LOL

    So... my only advise here is to figure out what your final power rating is going be. Get some idea of how hard you intent to plant. Look at the aftermarket options available to meet those requirements and check feedback to see what kinds of problems crop up. Once complete, pick your poison. The only other thing I look at really is compatibility between parts (uppers vs. lowers, street vs. track, perch location, coil-over vs. non, manners, durability, and quality control).

    Those big names you hear about all the time? They're big names for a reason. I won't say who I bought them from but I have a set of weight jacker lowers that will last the life of the car and THEN some. Maintenance and upkeep... Hasn't been a concern since I took the time to properly install them. :nice:
  7. I think your post was a well purposed one. I agree with most everything you stated.

    Although street parts I wouldn't say take more of a beating, I think they are just used on a more consistent basis. So in the end they need to be able to take the beating of time with some extra pot holes thrown in. When you have a street only car, my expectation is to drive it like a normal car, with the occasional driving like it should be driven. So yes, they street parts will need to endure the beating of time and an occasional beating. Parts designed for the track may not need to endure the pot holes and bumps street parts do, but they need to withstand the beating of consistent runs down a track with very high powered cars.

    When I refer to street car, I mean it is my daily driver, and I don't plan on having more than 350RWHP. I'd like to stay around 300. But everyone knows initial plans don't mean squat.

    But yes, if I replace something on my car, I usually don't plan on replacing it again.

    I recently was offered some used parts, which I am completely O.K. with purchasing. I don't really care if anyone disagrees, used parts, if in good condition are fine, BUT this depends on the part.

    I was offered:
    Eibach Springs for $90
    Summit CAs for $100
    Bilstein Shocks for $125

    I know for a fact that these are barely used parts, since they came from a '96 GT I believe. The kid who drove that car ended up in a ditch and totaled the car.
    Totaling a car doesn't mean the car was wrecked, it just means the insurance company wasn't going to pay to have the car fixed because the repairs out weighed the blue book value.

    I don't know the specific part numbers, but before I buy them I will look them up.

    Please anyone who objects to these parts, let me know and why.
  8. I'd take a good set of lightly used Bilsteins any day of the week (any decent quality shock for that matter since it's failure isn't going to leave me stranded or worse).

    Springs... same thing so long as they were the weight that I desired and progressive for a DD.

    Summit control arms, I might have issue with. No idea who makes them, no idea what quality control measures are used to ensure their integrity, and no idea if they're just an imitation of a design initially created by a company who did their homework, or maybe even an imitation of a company that didn't. :shrug: Too many unknowns for me on a part that can break and put your chasis into the asphalt.

    The Fox 5oh LCAs need to be able to handle a LOT of abuse. Abuse that's shared more evenly on a suspension of a different makeup. Some of that can be mitigated by sticking with OEM style uppers with rubber bushings. Start messing with that end and you're looking for problems like suspension bind, beatup or torn torque boxes, or a host of other suspension problems that more qualified persons (like MFE for isntance), are better at understanding/explaining than I am.
  9. Sounds good. I'll do my research on Summit.

    Anyone else have an opinion on Summit CAs or Summit in general?
  10. Summit control arms are the same cheap offshore stuff sold by Granatelli, 50Resto, Blue Oval Industries, etc, etc. A couple of years back there was a thread on here with pictures of a freshly installed Summit LCA that had completely sheared off at the rear bushing on the first hit on the drag strip.

  11. Yes, Stangnet has a disproportionately high number of people "trying to prove a point." That said, you asked about street style control arms and torque box reinforcements and people mentioned UPR, so I'll show you what we recommend:

    Our Elite Series control arms have tubular chrome-moly bodies which are the strongest arms available. They also feature Energy Suspension bushings which were specifically developed for UPR. They have oversized 1" metal sleeves which ride in fluted polyurethane bushings. We have never had an arm or bushing failure with this design, even on our 9-second street car!

    Our torque box kit which reinforces the control arm mounting points on the body. It can be bolted in, but we recommend bolting AND welding it in.

    It should be noted that UPR Products are Made in America, they carry a Lifetime Guarantee, and we offer Stangnet members a 10% discount.
  12. Thank you both for your response. I probably won't put on the Summit CAs then, because from the sounds of it they are cheap, plus I couldn't find very much when I googled it, which also isn't a good sign.

    I will most certainly look into UPR
  13. I do have a question dealing with the Torque box reinforcments..... This is a half stupid question, but where should I go to have them welded?

    Obviously some sort of specialty shop, but I don't know where to start looking. I wouldn't expect a typical automotive shop to do it.

    Anyone on here from around Baltimore, MD that has a suggestion?
  14. Based on your descriptions in this thread.... I wouldn't bother having thebattle boxes welded. Just bolt them in. What I might do though, would be to go to a welding shop in your area and have the torque box seams welded before isntalling the reinforcement kit.

    Any half decent welding shop can box those in for you.
  15. Alright thanks.
  16. Do yourself a favor and research UPR's reputation, as well as Maximum Motorsports' before you spend your money.
  17. I plan on it.
  18. The torque box reinforcements can be bolted in now and welded later, if you just want to install them right away. Typically, a muffler shop can & will install them. It's typical underbody mig welding work.

    And don't mind wythors. He's just one of the UPR haters. UPR Products are Made in America and they carry a Lifetime Guarantee. While you're researching our reputation, you'll probably dig up stats like the dozens of championships our drag racers have won, including 4x Renegade Champ Brian Mitchell and 3x Drag Radial Champ Chris Little- who just won in X275 last weekend. Then you have thousands of people out there daily driving on UPR suspension, with no problems whatsoever. I've been using UPR suspension for ten years, and it's not like I'm easy on my cars-

  19. this! how many champiships have been won on a MM suspension??

    anyway... you hit a cone.
  20. Actually that cone is suppose to be down like that, they use it as pointer during AutoX sessions.

    I'd really like to know how many Championships are won with parts, not just company stickers. Does anyone have a list of championships won and by which suspension used? Now that would be something I'd like to see.