Control arms on a budget?

Discussion in 'Fox 5.0 Mustang Tech' started by pissedoff92, Dec 5, 2011.

  1. It's all hogwash if you ask me. Drivers are more responsible for winning championships than parts will ever be.
  2. not going to lie a good driver has a lot to do with it... BUT if you dont have good parts in and under the car it is worthless how good the driver is in heads up racing...
  3. Oh, I hear ya. And if this was an aftermarket to stock comparison, I would most certainly accredit a good portion of the win to the parts used. I'm just saying....MM....UPR...Kenny Brown...Griggs, etc. All good parts, all equally capable. The fact that a guy with a product sticker on his windshield won, with "Brand X" parts in their car, doesn't necessarily mean said parts themselves are greatly responsible for the win.
  4. Take it from someone who's broken suspension products before at a 1/4 mile track, quality products do make a difference. I've told the Chinese Red Upper / Lower Control arm story when were at an SCCA at Homestead Miami Road Course and both uppers broke. Car was towed 3 hours home all because my buddy went for price first.

    I think quality parts are equally capable. Cheap parts are Suspension is where I spared no expense that's for sure.

    I see lots of Company stickers on drag cars but because they bought spark plugs there or the company provided money for sticker placement doesn't mean said Company parts were the deciding factor in winning.
  5. See the issue with the Championship arguement is that typically those cars are using the best suspension available from that company, or at least something close to the highest end available.

    I will not be looking at that suspension, as I have stated before.
  6. And yes, stickers don't mean a thing......except for Hondas they add HP......LOL
  7. As we all stated go the best route you can on suspension, it's that important. TeamZ is the latest suspension I installed and it's top notch and affordable. I'm not talking just control arms, I'm talking there entire front / rear suspension kit. Let me dig up a pic of TeamZ. Website Prices are on their website.

  8. Another thing to consider is cost. Contrary to popular beliefe, a lot of racers don't get the parts "given to them" by these companies like we would all like to believe. That being the case, they're looking for a deal, just like the rest of us. If the part does the job at a great price, then that's what's going to get the nod. I'm not saying UPR or some of the other ones on the lower end of the price scale are putting out a superior, or inferior product to the rest of the masses out there, but they're one of the most competitivly it's no wonder more racers are using their stuff.

    IMO...if it's a track only car and I've got the choice between a complete K Member kit from UPR or Team Z in the $750 price range, or another from MM at twice that for $1,500 and they all do their intended job well.....guess who's getting my money.
  9. I was recently offered a set of HPM CAs, upper and lower I believe. I can't seem to find anything on the company nor have I heard of them. I read that they have been bought out..... Anyone know the company I am talking about?
  10. HPM made a name for themselves with their Megabite Jr. LCA's. They change the location point of the axle end, changing the Instant Center, so the tires plant themselves better under acceleration load. But in so doing, they introduce Roll Steer, meaning the rear axle no longer stays perpendicular to the centerline of the car when the body rolls. That's not something you want if you're into cornering, but the better bite is something you do want if you're drag racing. They're not bad arms for their intended purpose, which is straight line.
  11. forgot to add they are hard as **** on the torque boxes
  12. hmmm so for street purposes, they are probably not the best choice?
  13. The dozens of championships our racers have won were won by racers actually using our products. I don't count those just displaying our stickers. I haven't finalized the list so I haven't posted it here. The rough draft is posted on our facebook fan page. I believe it's around three dozen.

    Gearhead92 makes a legitimate point about race suspension vs street suspension. However, our 9-second 2010 GT sits on our street suspension (all polyurethane bushings) and my '06 GT, which is the demo vehicle for our Handling Package, also uses our street suspension. (all polyurethane bushings) It is excellent equipment.
  14. I just wanted to add this for the benefit of people who find this thread in searches for information, like I did.

    I have these control arms from LMR, and they are great.

    More expensive does not necessarily = better, and cheap does not necessarily = ineffective or weak. Some companies charge more knowing people will pay for their name alone, and some charge less to get people to try their goods and see that they really are just as good for a more reasonable price. I understand that if you have wasted time and money saving up for the most expensive everything, then it can be hard to admit that people can be more economical than you have been and still get pretty much the same results, but that is no excuse to try and lead others astray. Your rear end will not fall apart with these in, provided they are installed correctly. On a stiff suspension, you should thread-lock everything, including the control arm bolts.

    E1's in the army make more than most people in the middle class. To us college students, that is rich. All the same, coke tastes almost the same as pepsi, no matter which one costs more at the moment.
  15. +50 Torque box destroyers, just nobody knew it when they saw how well they worked. I bet they would sell like crap now that we all know.
  16. Sharad likes this.
  17. You think they are hard on torque boxes, try southside lift bars, damn near tore my TB's off the car.
    Now mine are 100% fabricated by a chassis shop, those arms were like $200 back in the day and they cost me another $1100 to fix their damage.
  18. Anytime you stiffen your suspension, you are causing more stress to your undercarriage and to your passengers butts.

    You pay the price to play the game. You can get torque box covers to protect it if you feel better about it. If you wan't longevity, consider a Toyota Camry or a Honda Civic

  19. I would NEVER put anything UPR on my car.I've dealt with them in the past and will never do do so again. If you want quality go with MM, Griggs, Racecraft, Steeda or Team Z.

    Google UPR + garbage
  20. If this is a preview of the kind of "tech" "contribution" you're going to make, may I suggest a redirect to
    Gearbanger 101 and gearheadboy like this.