Engine Cooling system Advice?

[admLSC7]

Fairly New here.
Currently looking to upgrade my cooling system. Many thing to do and trying to budget. Looking at the SVE 3row +hoses as well as possibly Edlebrock water pump for future. Have to look at mine but after 30yrs just want to upgrade. Also trying to get some BBK under drive pulleys in the process.

My question is does anyone know what the factory size transmission cooler is for these cars with AODE? Have to get over an look at it in storage but covid has taken over. While I’m in there I might as well do it. Also, what is proper temperature range for these engines, 192-195? Basically stock with a 12degree timing (meaning plus 2degrees advanced)and 180 thermostat.

The car is a 90 MarkVII LSC. (5.0 HO) I’ve had the car since I was a kid and work on it when I can. For some history. I know what’s been done and what hasn’t.

At the moment I’m dealing with warm and cool spots on the RAD and temp creeps up driving 75mph+. Did the fan clutch years ago might need a new one again. Radiator cap degrees range but when the temp creepit gets to about 210 if I remember from last summer.

Thanks in advance for any input. Feel free to let me know if I’m missing anything here or if timing os

 

[KRUISR]

Hot and cold spots on rad sounds like blockage to me. Maybe just remove it and take to rad shop for a good flush. Should be alot cheaper than replacement.

To me, if hoses are not cracked or damaged, shouldn't need to be changed. Just inspect their condition and if still flexible.

Operating temps on your gauge should be a function of your thermostat. Gauge sender is likely in the intake manifold (my Mustang unit is). I know the OEM t-stat for my 90 GT Mustang is a 195 F unit. I would expect that is stock for your Mark VII too. I run a 180 F unit and Contour electric fans on a 3 row copper rad. I do not see temps over 200 F. I would think normal operating temp would be t-stat temp plus or minus 5 degrees when driving (remember you are measuring temp in engine, not rad, rad could be cooler).

My Mustang is an AOD car and the only trans cooler it has is the one loop of tubing in the radiator side tank. I am planning on installing a spare cooler I have from an Escape. I will mount it in front of A/C condenser, near the bottom, inline with the lower valance opening in my bumper cover. It should be close to the full width of that opening. I will replace and reroute my trans cooler tubing from trans to cooler at the same time.

 

[admLSC7]

Thanks Kruiser,

took a look yesterday and the lines attach battery side to the RAD. Same as yours. I’d imagine my gauge on the radiator would be a little hotter but could be wrong here. Still using the original temp gauge in the car which typically just stays a touch on the cool side of normal unless I get on it. Cools back down fairly quick though after I let off. I’ve done the sensor and sending unit in the past. fan clutch seems fine doesn’t even spin a full rotation by hand and no lubricant leaking out, cools at a stop.

Flushed my rad years ago, wrong of coarse bc I was young. decided to splurge and just buy the setup for future investment. I know the lower radiator hose needs replacement and I’m just going to do them all. Pressure tested the system last year and lost perhaps a 1/2 lb in about an hour plus. Another thing I’m trying to track down. Car has been sitting since last year and noticed coolant on the lower rad hose which could be my leak, or water pump. Just trying to upgrade for the underdrive pulleys and future upgrades. Failed to mention I have about 135,000 on it so not going crazy with it til I can pull the motor.

How is the copper radiator holding up? Decided to go aluminum 3 row and had some pretty decent savings on the kit.

Motor wise the MarkVII is about 90% the same as the GT so feel free to shoot for the hills with ideas. I appreciate it. I’ve spent a lot of time cross referencing. Suspension, that’s another ball game but still fox.

 

[STEVE PATTON]

Fairly New here.
Currently looking to upgrade my cooling system. Many thing to do and trying to budget. Looking at the SVE 3row +hoses as well as possibly Edlebrock water pump for future. Have to look at mine but after 30yrs just want to upgrade. Also trying to get some BBK under drive pulleys in the process.

My question is does anyone know what the factory size transmission cooler is for these cars with AODE? Have to get over an look at it in storage but covid has taken over. While I’m in there I might as well do it. Also, what is proper temperature range for these engines, 192-195? Basically stock with a 12degree timing (meaning plus 2degrees advanced)and 180 thermostat.

The car is a 90 MarkVII LSC. (5.0 HO) I’ve had the car since I was a kid and work on it when I can. For some history. I know what’s been done and what hasn’t.

At the moment I’m dealing with warm and cool spots on the RAD and temp creeps up driving 75mph+. Did the fan clutch years ago might need a new one again. Radiator cap degrees range but when the temp creepit gets to about 210 if I remember from last summer.

Thanks in advance for any input. Feel free to let me know if I’m missing anything here or if timing os

Just to let you know,Ibought that SVE 3 row a year and a half ago .It failed where the tubes meet the tanks , not reparable .Tossed it ,bought a Champion 4 row from Jegs .It too is a direct fit.Nice piece!.....By the way,SVE has a one year warranty and is the best looking piece in my aluminum junk pile !!!

 

[KRUISR]

The copper core rad is great. I picked it up brand new while I was compiling parts to put my car back together. I bought it in 2015 as a rolling chassis with engine and trans on a pallet and 95-99% of the parts loose piled in the interior.



Summer 2018


Had a 2 core rad with the car but found this one and decided to go with it. I think the 2 core with the electric fans would work just fine too. In my mind the key with a rad is straight cooling fins to allow enough air through. I know when I cleaned up and straightened the fins on my A/C condenser it helped alot.

 

[admLSC7]

Car looks good Kruiser . I’m sure that took a while. There’s days where I wish I just had a stang, especially with the suspension I’m in the process of upgrading. Rebuilt a bunch of the front end and swapped to springs but not stiff enough. Still have to get to the rear. Currently rather have it run right.

 

[admLSC7]

Just to let you know,Ibought that SVE 3 row a year and a half ago .It failed where the tubes meet the tanks , not reparable .Tossed it ,bought a Champion 4 row from Jegs .It too is a direct fit.Nice piece!.....By the way,SVE has a one year warranty and is the best looking piece in my aluminum junk pile !!!

Had a feeling that may be the case with these. I’ve read good and bad about them. I’ll keep the stock one laying around as a back up for sure. Probably made from Chinesium

 

[admLSC7]

Still can’t sell it though even though I want an 85fox

 

[admLSC7]

Hoping the Edlebrock water pump helps as well considering I’m doing the BBK under drive set. Have either of you dealt with the under drives? Can’t hear the stereo anyway so I don’t plan on using it. Doing a compression test this week as well

 

[STEVE PATTON]

I hope your new water pump offsets slower turning of all the driven pulleys . I had to go to a better alternator because with accessories on it actually showed a discharge

 

[admLSC7]

I hope your new water pump offsets slower turning of all the driven pulleys . I had to go to a better alternator because with accessories on it actually showed a discharge

Got a victor series high flow so it seems it should. Probably should have scooped the alternator too. Next move I guess. Probably start with the radiator and see how she does then do the rest. What amperage did you go with?

 

[Blown88GT]

Hoping the Edlebrock water pump helps as well considering I’m doing the BBK under drive set. Have either of you dealt with the under drives? Can’t hear the stereo anyway so I don’t plan on using it. Doing a compression test this week as well

Underdrive pulleys are the worst accessory you can buy.

 

[admLSC7]

Underdrive pulleys are the worst accessory you can buy.

Good to know, I’ve seen ups and I’ve seen downs mostly the later with them. Probably should have saved it for 3:55s and a new limited slip. Could always hold off on that.

 

[KRUISR]

Car looks good Kruiser . I’m sure that took a while. There’s days where I wish I just had a stang, especially with the suspension I’m in the process of upgrading. Rebuilt a bunch of the front end and swapped to springs but not stiff enough. Still have to get to the rear. Currently rather have it run right.

It took about 2.5 years of every other weekend working on it. It cost me $1500 CDN for the car and including some horse trading on parts I have about $6000 CDN including initial purchase in it. Did everything myself except set up the rear with new gears (my brother did that part). It was a blast to do and I can't wait for the next one.

I love the 85/86 GT's as well. My cousin has an '85 GT hatch 5spd he bought in '87 with 29,000 km. It now has around 65,000 km and is 100% original (even any small parking lot dings along the way) and he plans to keep it that way.

 

[admLSC7]

Once I get the garage I’ll be doing something like that. Nothing more rewarding than doing it yourself or just keeping it running. I’ve built a few of my cars up a bit, mostly suspension. This one is on and off. Lots of time and patience.

 

[admLSC7]

Good to know, I’ve seen ups and I’ve seen downs mostly the later with them. Probably should have saved it for 3:55s and a new limited slip. Could always hold off on that.

I guess if I don’t like them I’ll take them back off. Seems to be the case with most people. Pretty sure the MarkVII has a 100 amp alt so I’m hoping that helps. Never put them on for that reason alone.

 

[marcelo]

Underdrive pulleys are the worst accessory you can buy.

why that ??? i run underdrive pulleys since years and no problem with that ...

 

[marcelo]

5.0 Underdrive Pulleys Photo & Image Gallery

View all photos of 5.0 Underdrive Pulleys at

www.mustangandfords.com

check that out ... UD Pulleys actually are a cheap way to free some Hps..

 

[General karthief]

5.0 Underdrive Pulleys Photo & Image Gallery

View all photos of 5.0 Underdrive Pulleys at

www.mustangandfords.com

check that out ... UD Pulleys actually are a cheap way to free some Hps..

Ok, lets check it out, first I will add that I have underdrive pulleys, this test was done on a stock 5.0 and it worked but was not mentioned was the real world, charging and cooling issues were not addressed. The real world is there can be (I say 'can be' because there are workarounds for these issues) problems when sitting in traffic at night in the summer time with the ac on.
Ok, so you don't sit in traffic at night in the summertime with the ac on. Because you can't. The temps will rise and the voltage will drop. Real world.
I mentioned workarounds, now you are installing electric cooling fans then a 3g alternator. Well you did accidentally gained a few more ponys. All's well. Most of the time.
Was the $60 bucks worth the 16hp and 17 lbft at 5k.
Real world driving is at say 3200 rpms where the gain is 7 hp and 11 lbft. Not so much now but some.
For some it works, for me it is marginal.
Now you can make an informed decision.

 

[KRUISR]

I agree with the General.

If looking for freed up horsepower. Switch to electric fans (3G alt will be required). I have read tests (and based on personal experience, I believe them) that removal of clutch fan is 15-20 hp. Test I read said 18, but everyone's results will vary slightly. I have put UDP's on and off and right now I am not sure what I have.