The biggest thing to remember when planning a 'build' is the 'real world', where most of the driving will be done.
Engine Cooling system Advice?
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Thanks Marcelo,
Basically what I’m trying to do. Like I said I’ve read good and bad. Fairly certain the MKVii has 100 amp too which I’m increased my chances on the charging. Also, why I’m upgrading my RAD and water pump plus future modifications. Have to do the tail shaft bushing and seal and a few other things so not going all out on the motor at the moment. I basically drive it only in New England summers. I’ve had it since I was a kid and got it with 60 k. Beat the piss out of it back in the day and basically just want to cruise and get my suspension up to snuff. Are you running the alternator pulley on a stock alternator? I know some guys don’t. I also never use the AC bc I’m not about to charge it back up with Freon rather ride with the windows down. Running a 180 thermostat and picked up the Edlebrock victor high flow pump as well as the 3 core aluminum radiator. The car runs solid as is just trying to free it up a little which is exactly what I’ve read about. Definitely plan to do the electric fans in the future and 3g alt upgrade.
that’s the future plan. Some guys runs the UDPs not problem, some seem to see their problems once they put them on etc. Any chance you have managed to take out the lower raiator hose spring and switch it to a new hose? Doesn’t seem like a complicated thing to do just curious.
My car does not have a spring in the lower hose. The only purpose for one that I can think of is if the water pump is pulling essentially a vacuum and collapsing the lower hose. Otherwise what is the point. Stock hose is molded already so spring not needed for shape.
marcelo
Active Member
you can questioning all mods ..if you want ..go UD pulleys then go better intake, cold air, bigger TB and Longtube headers, cam, alu heads ..finally you have +300 WHP instead of 180 ... thats what its all about ... making a bit more power ..and to have the "its modified! " feeling.. hahaha ....there will be no problems with UD pullys, good pump and 3 row cooler ..i never had a overheating problem not even here in very hot Costa Rica
I was not questioning the modification, just adding more information.
Like I said, there are workarounds.
Like I said, there are workarounds.
Blown88GT
Founding Member
How old of tires do you trust to drive on? Hoses age and blow out, too. If in doubt, replace the old hoses and flush & change the coolant for reliability. BTW, they get really upset when you have a coolant problem on a track, so it’s not just street I am thinking about.
In Nebraska summers, I really appreciate the R134a that was already in my AC. As The General is trying to tell you, the under drive pulleys are not worth it on the street. When I asked ten years ago about them on the street, I was shown pictures of them as ash trays by people who tried them in climates that have wide temp variations.
Adding a higher output alternator and water pump probably adds enough drag to offset the pulleys gain. There are smarter ways to spend money on a street car.
In Nebraska summers, I really appreciate the R134a that was already in my AC. As The General is trying to tell you, the under drive pulleys are not worth it on the street. When I asked ten years ago about them on the street, I was shown pictures of them as ash trays by people who tried them in climates that have wide temp variations.
Adding a higher output alternator and water pump probably adds enough drag to offset the pulleys gain. There are smarter ways to spend money on a street car.
7991LXnSHO,
Thanks,
I know the hoses need to go, did most of them about 12 years ago at this point. And yeah that’s the perfect analogy for that. Not planning to try the under-drives on until I’ve solved my issue at high temp on the highway under load. The car does cool back down but sure isn’t right. Mostly trying to make it more powerful and if all goes well and I fix my leaks perhaps see how she does in the quarter some day with some gears.
Everyone has good advice here and it’s basically exactly what I’ve come across in all my reading. right now just trying to split the money and time between fixing some issues, upgrading a bit, and the suspension which I’m also in the process of upgrading. Ripped the air ride out years ago, rebuilt half the front suspension and currently beefing the rear up and adding some QA1s because I do not have perches in the car and the rear suspension is way different. Just looking for a cooling fix and a small bump in power. If you guys have some other ideas since UD pulleys seems to be a take it or leave it subject for the most part I’m open.
Was considering 1.7 rockers as well.
getting the hoses and radiator in this week, compression test, and possibly the water pump as well and I’ll let you guys know where that gets me I guess. Thanks for all the input.
quick question off topic but has anyone done they’re tailshaft bushing and seal? Currently on my list.
In case I missed mentioning one of these
currently has 2 degree advanced timing (mentioned)
180 thermostat
X-pipe with no cats
2-1/4 back with 40/50 series I did about 18 years ago.
I still run copper plugs
Did wires, cap, rotor years ago but I barely get to driving it
currently has 2 degree advanced timing (mentioned)
180 thermostat
X-pipe with no cats
2-1/4 back with 40/50 series I did about 18 years ago.
I still run copper plugs
Did wires, cap, rotor years ago but I barely get to driving it
I did the tailshaft bushing and seal a few months back. My car is a manual, but I would imagine it's basically the same. Seal is easy. Getting the old bushing out is the tricky part. I ended up using a sawzall of all things to split the bushing and it came right out. On my housing there was one spot about 1/4" wide and 1/8" deep that I was able to cut into without damaging the housing. I pulled the tailshaft housing off of the transmission. There is a tool for doing it on the car, but it was way to expensive for me to justify spending the money on it. There are pictures and more details on my progress thread.
I did the tailshaft bushing and seal a few months back. My car is a manual, but I would imagine it's basically the same. Seal is easy. Getting the old bushing out is the tricky part. I ended up using a sawzall of all things to split the bushing and it came right out. On my housing there was one spot about 1/4" wide and 1/8" deep that I was able to cut into without damaging the housing. I pulled the tailshaft housing off of the transmission. There is a tool for doing it on the car, but it was way to expensive for me to justify spending the money on it. There are pictures and more details on my progress thread.
doesn’t seem too bad of a job, I’m guessing you cut the sleeve of the bushing with the sawzall. Bold move in that area.
If you want to see what I did here is this link.
www.stangnet.com
Progress Thread - Therapy Car-- Freshening Up the Lower Intake
Here's the game plan for freshening up the rear end. Shocks (I have KYB AGX on the front. I guess I'll go with that on the back unless someone changes my mind) Quad Shocks (any recommendations?) All new bushings including spherical bushings (I already have all of this except the spherical...
www.stangnet.com
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Just wanted to add....the lower radiator hose can collapse and cause an overheating issue in some cases. I've witnessed this first hand on a couple mustangs that had weird temperature spikes at sustained rpm. It also has to do with the radiator size. If I can, I always swap the spring from the lower radiator hose into the new one.
Under drive bullies are a waste of time man. To each their own but those days are over for me.
Under drive bullies are a waste of time man. To each their own but those days are over for me.
I never,not once had an issue with UD pullies. Always ran them years back and my car currently runs them. However,I'm sticking with the stock alternator pulley,as I upgraded to a 3g and want it to it's full ability. Oh,I LOVE Mk 7s !! You should manual swap it 
Also,I've never ran anything other than a stock radiator,again never an issue. Hell my buddies 93 Cobra ran a stock radiator for years,was a 10sec car.
Also,I've never ran anything other than a stock radiator,again never an issue. Hell my buddies 93 Cobra ran a stock radiator for years,was a 10sec car.Thanks for the link.If you want to see what I did here is this link.
Progress Thread - Therapy Car-- Freshening Up the Lower Intake
Here's the game plan for freshening up the rear end. Shocks (I have KYB AGX on the front. I guess I'll go with that on the back unless someone changes my mind) Quad Shocks (any recommendations?) All new bushings including spherical bushings (I already have all of this except the spherical...
Any trouble removing the spring? I’m sure I can get it out but I’m open to tricks if you got one.
- Mar 2, 2015
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Take a knife or razor and cut the hose. Easiest way to get it out. CJ Pony Parts has them for sale...so does summit but theirs are by size. I've had some not so great issues with CJ so that's not my most favorite place to order from.
If the suction of the pump becomes more than the radiator can flow it will collapse the hose. Here's a screen shot of Ellisons Machine Shop running an engine they currently have for sale in Maryland. Look at that hose sucking in.
This guy is pretty awesome and shares a lot of knowledge. If you have FB join and watch some of his vids.
If the suction of the pump becomes more than the radiator can flow it will collapse the hose. Here's a screen shot of Ellisons Machine Shop running an engine they currently have for sale in Maryland. Look at that hose sucking in.
This guy is pretty awesome and shares a lot of knowledge. If you have FB join and watch some of his vids.
Thanks,I never,not once had an issue with UD pullies. Always ran them years back and my car currently runs them. However,I'm sticking with the stock alternator pulley,as I upgraded to a 3g and want it to it's full ability. Oh,I LOVE Mk 7s !! You should manual swap it
Anyone I knnow who owned one loves em... some people think it’s a t-bird, idk. I definitely plan to manual swap it. Was supposed to pick up a borg-Warner T5 years ago cheap and then the guy quit my buddy’s shop and I never got it. Would love to have a stick in it. Every other car I’ve owned has been stick and it’s the one thing that drives me nuts about the car.
decent photo
Take a knife or razor and cut the hose. Easiest way to get it out. CJ Pony Parts has them for sale...so does summit but theirs are by size. I've had some not so great issues with CJ so that's not my most favorite place to order from.
If the suction of the pump becomes more than the radiator can flow it will collapse the hose. Here's a screen shot of Ellisons Machine Shop running an engine they currently have for sale in Maryland. Look at that hose sucking in.
This guy is pretty awesome and shares a lot of knowledge. If you have FB join and watch some of his vids.
yeah that’s definitely no bueno! I probably just reuse the spring, thanks. Long as it comes out in one piece. Ha
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