Could you please list your aftermarket control arms and if you are satisfied
- Thread starter Marc2
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I run HPM Megabite Jr's LCA's and Megabite Double-adjustable UCA's. What a difference over stock, both in cornering and takeoff. The uppers have sperical at the body, and I put in poly axel bushings. Haven't adjusted the pinion angle yet. The lowers have two levels, I have on level 1, the rear doesn't lift but stays level. I recomend them, paid a total of about $450, worth it. Saving, (almost there) for some Lakewood 90/10 and 50/50's, CC plates, and springs.
MM is the way to go for quality and performance. Companies like Steeda, MM, and a few other's have thier own race cars. Steeda and MM are all over the road racing scene, like American Iron. These copy-cat compainies do not, and they won't because thier inferiority would be shown. Not saying that the parts don't work, but in competition they would show. Of course they can offer thier parts for less, research and development cost alot, so does quality construction. A company who's best feature is price, will work at that, so if they can take shortcuts they will.
MM is the way to go for quality and performance. Companies like Steeda, MM, and a few other's have thier own race cars. Steeda and MM are all over the road racing scene, like American Iron. These copy-cat compainies do not, and they won't because thier inferiority would be shown. Not saying that the parts don't work, but in competition they would show. Of course they can offer thier parts for less, research and development cost alot, so does quality construction. A company who's best feature is price, will work at that, so if they can take shortcuts they will.
I have Jegs solid adjustable lowers, HPM double adjustable uppers, Steeda anti rollbar and spherical bearings. Very happy with all of it. The Jegs lowers looked like a copy but the price was right, quality and fit were great. The steeda anti rollbar is pretty sweet, quality, fit, finish was great.
Heard good things about the Team Z stuff also, I like the uppers he makes.
Heard good things about the Team Z stuff also, I like the uppers he makes.
stangbear427
Active Member
Depends. What are your intentions? I don't know much about the WildRides ones, but they have an excellent reputation as a company. They seem to be geared primarily towards the holeshot though, for handling I'd say MM is better. I run their drag racing lowers on my GT, and I don't see how they can be improved upon in any respect though.GTmustang00 said:
Bushings? Depends. What are your intentions? If you are willing to sacrifice a little ride quality in the name of ultimate handling with no binding issues, then you want spherical bearings on both ends. With this however, you absolutely have to have a panhard bar too (which, on any solid axle car that does more than go strait, IMO, should have been there from the factory anyway). Rumor has it that they are really noisy, mine aren't, but I don't use any upper control arms in my setup so I wouldn't know as they seem to be the ones garnering the complaints. For the best compromise, you would want a quality arm (or four of them) with a three peice urethane bushing on the chassis end and a teflon coated spherical bearing on the axle end. This will be a relatively smooth and quiet arrangement with good axle location and low binding potential. Still, on any kind of driver that does any kind of cornering, I preach the panhard- even on a car with 100% stock components.
maverick0716
Founding Member
Marc2 said:
You want bang for the buck get Proforms. They're EXACTLY the same as BBK's (same casting even), but they're way cheaper. I got them for $200 CDN ($150 US) and they have poly bushings, zirk fittings so you can grease them.....they're good. Maybe not as good as the ones that cost over 3 times as much but you wanted bang for the buck and these are it.
94Silverbullet
Member
408stroker5.0 said:
You ain't lying about that. They felt so heavy, I didn't even want to put them on my car. I guess I'll be selling mine soon.
QDRHRSE
New Member
The car I'm racing now has an AOD and doesn't need much. I use the D & D control arms with spherical bushings. The solid bushings don't really increase road noise at all except they make the arms or springs "clunk" every so often. I think when it comes to the non adjustable arms D & D's cannot be beat because of the Delrin bushings they use. No contest- better than polyurathane. However, I think that the Lakewood arms are great but the Megabite Jr's are the all around best for drag racing.
PNY PWR
New Member
Give me some input on these Granitelli's please. I think I'm gonna buy them. The MM's are this style and on thier website they say to use Ford's HD uppers. Any input would be appreciated.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&item=7913407082&category=33583
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&item=7913407082&category=33583
5.0_Gil_89
Founding Member
Has anyone used the Steeda lowers...weight jackers, and the aluminum ones also. My question is does the three piece bushings really help take some stress off the torque boxes? Thanks.
TT91
Active Member
PrimerdFury
New Member
Anyone know if it is alright to use a solid spherical bushing on the upper control arm on a daily driven car or is that stupid?
stangbear427
Active Member
Don't know about Steeda (not a fan) but as for MM and the three peice bushings: absolutely. They aren't a perfect solution like a hiem joint or spherical bearing, but they are far superior to stock and closer to perfect than they are to all the other aftermarket ones that simply use strait poly bushings. However, they should still be reinforced like sureshot said.5.0_Gil_89 said:
stangbear427
Active Member
That depends on how much of a fanatic you are. It isn't stupid, but it may be a little noisy... rumor has it.PrimerdFury said:
Ranchero5.0
The Voice of Reason
Done a few sets. Installed MAC's twice, both times turned out to be junk and an absolute PITA. I can usually do a swap in about three lazy hours. Took three of us four hours to install the last bolt in the MAC lower and it totally locked up the rear the bushings binded so tightly, even after greasing.
I put a set of Steeda aluminum lowers on my '93 after drilling and tapping for grease fittings. Extremely nice parts. Three peice bushings are the bomb and the arms just about fell into place. Noticed a pretty good traction increase (the rear view mirror vibrates under hard acelleration now and I can feel the tires digging intot he pavement).
Jamie
I put a set of Steeda aluminum lowers on my '93 after drilling and tapping for grease fittings. Extremely nice parts. Three peice bushings are the bomb and the arms just about fell into place. Noticed a pretty good traction increase (the rear view mirror vibrates under hard acelleration now and I can feel the tires digging intot he pavement).
Jamie
5.0_Gil_89
Founding Member
Ranchero, do you think it was necessary to drill and tap for grease zerts? I really like the Steeda con arms and thinking 'bout getting them for my stang.
Ranchero5.0
The Voice of Reason
The drill and tap operation was painless so why not do it? The bushings slid out nicely and it took about an hour drill and tap (1/4-28).
Jamie
Jamie
stangbear427
Active Member
Because for less money you can get them from MM, and they already have grease fitttings on them.Ranchero5.0 said:
I've been reading about those Steeda adjustible lowers, and i love the idea of being able to fine tune your ride height a little bit with them. It's a much better idea than some of the ones that use spring shims, since you have to pull the spring out to put the shim in. It's kinda like having coilovers.
