Could you please list your aftermarket control arms and if you are satisfied

Rick 91GT said:
Actually the 3 piece bushing does take some stress away, since it is not rock hard through the entire end acting like a solid bushing.
Let me tell you a little truth about the "Famous! 3 peice bushing!" When Dario started making control arms he ordered bushings in quantity. He accidently ordered the wrong size bushings and got a whole shipment of them in. Rather than returning them he just odered some smaller bushings to fill in the void. With his marketing prowness he decided to called it new and revolutionary. It really wasn't, it was just a covered up mistake.
As far as UPR goes it's funny that stangbear427 has hit the nail on the head. He feels like I do about because I worked for them for a couple weeks and also came up with a lot of thier ideas. (Should have kept my mouth shut.) I have known the owner since he was delivering pizza's for his dad. I also gave them a local shop that a friend of mine used to work at to do some work for him. Now he does about $500,000.00 a year with this shop and I was supposed to go to work for them full time. That didn't happen but all my ideas stayed with UPR and now they make a lot of money off them. :bang: I ended up getting a lot of parts for payment for my work. I have a lot of their parts on my car but would not buy anything from them.
Here is a picture of the first stainless steel radiator cover that was made. I designed the ones he now sells.
581377_23_full.jpg

Ok I'm done for now.
 
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Does anyone know the about the quality and performance of BBK arms? Also, are adjustable arms for die-hards only? (Is the extra price really worth it for mainly street driven cars?)
 
Ranchero5.0 said:
Stangbear, I got my steeda aluminum lowers for installing the MAC's and installing the wildrides kit. It was only time..

Jamie
You lucky SOB! Must be nice to be in the business still. Deals deals deals. As a matter of religious principle I hate Steeda and boycot them exclusively, but even I would take a set of those arms for free... :nice:
 
When do you have to have a panhard? I'm trying to assemble some rear suspension parts and I'm a little confused. Is it if you use spherical on the uca's? What if I use
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for the lowers and
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for the uppers? I plan on replacing the axle housing bushing as well. Will the rearend not stay put w/o a panhard?
Should I use these type uca's? View attachment 523630
 

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My bro has D&D Performance upper and lowers with the spherical bushings and loves them. Though the bushings are a PITA to get out. Raised his car about an inch in the rear
 
PNY PWR said:
When do you have to have a panhard? I'm trying to assemble some rear suspension parts and I'm a little confused. Is it if you use spherical on the uca's? ... I plan on replacing the axle housing bushing as well. Will the rearend not stay put w/o a panhard?
Technically, it is actually the angle of the UCA's to the housing that locates the rear from side to side, so theoretically you don't NEED a panhard until you take them out entirely (think: torque arm). However, it isn't a good plan and it never worked right from the factory. Asking a child to do a man's job, really. I don't know how many spherical bearings you have to use before things get squirrely on you, all I can say is that they have a friction cooeficient of almost nothing in order to combat suspension bind. This means they only offer positive location from end to end of each arm, while a poly/rubber/one peice bushing will resist all motion except what is allowed by it's pivot points. Problem is, in order to move along that axis, the double upper angles conflict with each other and the angle of the lowers, causing them to bind (do to the lack of free articulation of the bushings), which increases the wheel rate exponencially, and wreaks havoc on your contact patch. IMO, every Mustang suspension should have a panhard/watts link, regardless of rear suspension configuration. Furthurmore, I don't suggest running ANY spherical bearings unless torque box reinforcements have already been installed. Just my $.02
 
Thnks for al that info stangbear. I've got the stock lca's off cause I had already ordered the lca's I have pictured above. I just want to keep the stock 4 link setup for now and just upgrade it. Judging by the bolts from the lca's being about half their original diameter, it needs it.

Any major problems with the lca's I ordered? Let's assume I use those. What would be a good choice for the uca's? Should I replace the axle housing bushings w/ poly ones as well?

I prolly should have gotten the lca's w/ regular bushings on each end.

I'm pretty sure I'll be happy with some decent new control arms, my new springs, and some good shocks.
 
i've run

sothsides , (work very good , but very hard on car )

bennet , double adjustable uppers and lowers , (great and easy on car , but there is a learning curve to make them work )

teamzmotorsports , can't say much about the best parts out there .... best looking , best made , best working .....

(WWW.TEAMZMOTORSPORTS.NET) all the way !
 
cevtv said:
What do you think of the Metco's for the street? Any binding or squeaking issues?

Never had any issues with them but the car was not a daily driver at that point, they are very nice and strong but expensive.

I'll be testing them against a set from Team Z early next year to see if I have any noticable difference on the track, they should act the same. If you looking for a complete set-up as I stated earlier check out www.teamzmotorsports.net Dave has a sweet set-up
 
PNY PWR said:
Give me some input on these Granitelli's please. I think I'm gonna buy them. The MM's are this style and on thier website they say to use Ford's HD uppers. Any input would be appreciated.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&item=7913407082&category=33583

i have the granatelli's and i wouldnt reccomend them, i had to shave the bushings to get them to fit on the rearend side and one of the threaded ends stripped for the spring cup so i cant raise the ride height for that side. i plan on replacing them with either the steeda or MM lowers.
 
turns out I got Granatelli's, they appear to be crap. The threads for the spring adjustment are a loose fit. I'd be scared to put the weight of the car on them. Didn't come with any hardware to install and seems like a lock-nut on the spring adjusters would be a good idea.

I'm gonna send them back. I'd like to get a decent tubular kit like the Mac's. Bad posts on them as well. Any suggestions? Need to figure out what to get pretty quick.
 
I appreciate the advice. There has to be a way to improve the stock situation w/o going hardcore. I guess I could box my stock arms and replace the bushings/bolts. I'm just looking to upgrade to some better parts, it's not a race car. It might go to the track a couple times a year.