Engine Cracked Block Near Right Coolant Inlet Help
- Thread starter jphisp01
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liljoe07
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It's done. You can rig it to possibly hold you out for a while. But I'd be looking for another engine or block.
not sure if leaks, still putting it together. the theaded recess slipt, so im fusing that together at the moment, then i'll attempt putting it into the gap
Maybe tap it for a pipe plug and seal it to the threads? And switch to a 7lb radiator cap 
@madmike1157 - @90sickfox - you guys are masters of the craft,what do y'all think?
@madmike1157 - @90sickfox - you guys are masters of the craft,what do y'all think?
Slather the edge up with silicone and stick it on there. Wipe the excess silicone away and let it set up. Then tack weld it to hold it in place. Then remove the bottom rubber seal off the radiator cap and run a non pressurized coolant system. Keep your coolant mix 50/50. See what happens
If it was me,.....That piece would be glued back on there using JB or a better epoxy. The problem is that it looks like a load bearing part...(The water pump is bolted through there)
So,...what do you do?
You use a stud there instead of a bolt. There are still remaining threads left in the block,..Screw that stud in there, glue the piece back on setting it right on top of the existing threads on the stud (Liberally,..so the epoxy goozes out everywhere) and let it set up overnight,
You may be able to use the stud as a clamp method by threading a nut onto the stud after you have the broken piece put back on,..just make sure to keep the nut and exposed stud threads free of any of the epoxy.
Fix-u-lated.
So,...what do you do?
You use a stud there instead of a bolt. There are still remaining threads left in the block,..Screw that stud in there, glue the piece back on setting it right on top of the existing threads on the stud (Liberally,..so the epoxy goozes out everywhere) and let it set up overnight,
You may be able to use the stud as a clamp method by threading a nut onto the stud after you have the broken piece put back on,..just make sure to keep the nut and exposed stud threads free of any of the epoxy.
Fix-u-lated.
- Mar 2, 2015
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OK...I'll attempt to help...
My last venture with QuickSteel epoxy made me a huge believer in the product...my oil pan had a pin hole and that stuff sealed it up with no problem. JB Weld has been the product I've chosen in the past but lately it hasn't been holding up like it used to....especially around oil.
That being said...there is no oil on that area of your block. I'd clean the hell out of that area and use epoxy weld JB or QuickWeld to seal that baby up.
You can coat a stud...or bolt with grease or vasaline( lightly..not gunked up ). Stick the broken piece on and emmediately thread the bolt in. Let it cure and remove the bolt.
The best way to fix that area would be to get the broken part welded back on. I've welded a starter mount ear back onto a Chevy 350 motor. It worked for years.
Good luck, man....and keep us posted on how you fix it.
My last venture with QuickSteel epoxy made me a huge believer in the product...my oil pan had a pin hole and that stuff sealed it up with no problem. JB Weld has been the product I've chosen in the past but lately it hasn't been holding up like it used to....especially around oil.
That being said...there is no oil on that area of your block. I'd clean the hell out of that area and use epoxy weld JB or QuickWeld to seal that baby up.
You can coat a stud...or bolt with grease or vasaline( lightly..not gunked up ). Stick the broken piece on and emmediately thread the bolt in. Let it cure and remove the bolt.
The best way to fix that area would be to get the broken part welded back on. I've welded a starter mount ear back onto a Chevy 350 motor. It worked for years.
Good luck, man....and keep us posted on how you fix it.
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