Cranks OK, but No Start Checklist for Fuel Injected Mustangs

I am at step "1.) Remove push on connector (small red/blue wire) from starter solenoid and turn ignition switch to the Run position. Place car in neutral or Park and set the parking brake. Remove the coil wire from distributor & and hold it 3/8” away from the engine block. Jumper the screw to the big bolt on the starter solenoid that has the battery wire connected to it. You should get a nice fat blue spark."

The vehicle cranks when I jumper the screw to the big bolt on the starter solenoid but I am not seeing a "fat blue spark". Should I be seeing the "fat blue spark" between the coil wire and the block or at the jumper on the starter solenoid? Or am I just trying to see if the engine cranks with this test and moving on to step 2? Thank you in advance.
If you have no spark, then you'll need to move on to the next step...

No spark, possible failed items in order of their probability:
A.) MSD, Crane, or other ignition box if present - Bypass it and return to stock configuration if possible. Do this as a temporary measure to eliminate it as a possible problem source.
B.) PIP sensor in distributor. The PIP sensor supplies the timing pulse to trigger the TFI and injectors. A failing PIP sensor will sometimes let the engine start if the SPOUT is removed. See paragraph 5A – Using a noid light will tell if the PIP is working by flashing when the engine is cranking.
C.) TFI module: use a test light to check the TFI module. Place one lead of the test light on the red/green wire on the ignition coil connector and the other lead on the dark green/yellow wire on the ignition coil connector. If the TFI is working properly, the test light will flash when the engine is cranked using the ignition switch.
D.) Coil
E.) No EEC or computer power - EEC or computer relay failure
86-93 models only: EEC relay next to computer - look for 12 volts at the fuel injector red wires.
94-95 models only: EEC or PCM power relay in the constant control relay module. Look for 12 volts at the fuel injector red wires.
Both 86-93 and 94-95 models: No 12 volts with the ignition switch in the run position on the fuel injector red wires. The relay has failed or there is no power coming from the ignition switch. Make sure that there is 12 volts on the red/green wire on the coil before replacing the relay.
F.) No EEC or computer power - fuse or fuse link failure
86-93 models only: Fuse links in wiring harness - look for 12 volts at the fuel injector red wires. All the fuse links live in a bundle up near the starter solenoid. Look for a 20 gauge blue fuse link connected to 2 black/orange 14 gauge wires.
94-95 models only: 20 amp EEC fuse in the engine compartment fuse box. Look for 12 volts at the fuel injector red wires.
G.) Ignition switch - look for 12 volts at the ignition coil red/lt green wire. No 12 volts, blown fuse link or faulty ignition switch. Remove the plastic from around the ignition switch and look for 12 volts on the red/green wire on the ignition switch with it in the Run position. No 12 volts and the ignition switch is faulty. If 12 volts is present in the Run position at the ignition switch but not at the coil, then the fuse or fuse link is blown.
 
  • Like
Reactions: 1 user
  • Sponsors (?)


If you have no spark, then you'll need to move on to the next step...

No spark, possible failed items in order of their probability:
A.) MSD, Crane, or other ignition box if present - Bypass it and return to stock configuration if possible. Do this as a temporary measure to eliminate it as a possible problem source.
B.) PIP sensor in distributor. The PIP sensor supplies the timing pulse to trigger the TFI and injectors. A failing PIP sensor will sometimes let the engine start if the SPOUT is removed. See paragraph 5A – Using a noid light will tell if the PIP is working by flashing when the engine is cranking.
C.) TFI module: use a test light to check the TFI module. Place one lead of the test light on the red/green wire on the ignition coil connector and the other lead on the dark green/yellow wire on the ignition coil connector. If the TFI is working properly, the test light will flash when the engine is cranked using the ignition switch.
D.) Coil
E.) No EEC or computer power - EEC or computer relay failure
86-93 models only: EEC relay next to computer - look for 12 volts at the fuel injector red wires.
94-95 models only: EEC or PCM power relay in the constant control relay module. Look for 12 volts at the fuel injector red wires.
Both 86-93 and 94-95 models: No 12 volts with the ignition switch in the run position on the fuel injector red wires. The relay has failed or there is no power coming from the ignition switch. Make sure that there is 12 volts on the red/green wire on the coil before replacing the relay.
F.) No EEC or computer power - fuse or fuse link failure
86-93 models only: Fuse links in wiring harness - look for 12 volts at the fuel injector red wires. All the fuse links live in a bundle up near the starter solenoid. Look for a 20 gauge blue fuse link connected to 2 black/orange 14 gauge wires.
94-95 models only: 20 amp EEC fuse in the engine compartment fuse box. Look for 12 volts at the fuel injector red wires.
G.) Ignition switch - look for 12 volts at the ignition coil red/lt green wire. No 12 volts, blown fuse link or faulty ignition switch. Remove the plastic from around the ignition switch and look for 12 volts on the red/green wire on the ignition switch with it in the Run position. No 12 volts and the ignition switch is faulty. If 12 volts is present in the Run position at the ignition switch but not at the coil, then the fuse or fuse link is blown.
Thanks for help. It ended up being "F". The 20 gauge blue fuse link was cut and not connected to the starter solenoid. I spliced in a new 20 gauge fuse link and ring connector, connected the wire back to the proper post on the starter solenoid and the car started right up!
 
  • Like
Reactions: 1 user
OK Ford buffs, here's a doozy! I've been in this industry for a long time. I love solving problems but this one has got me. Situation is a '91 5.0 transplant into a Cobra. No biggie there. However, when this thing gets hot it will not start....sometimes. It cranks fine (Powermaster starter) and has spark at coil, dist, and plugs. It flashes my noid light at the injector. ECT, ACT and TPS are all within readings. Fuel pressure is steady 36psi with vacuum and 42psi without. I get a tach signal as well. TFI has been replaced with owners spare as well. New cap/rotor/wires/plugs. Even with all that, starting fluid won't even lite.

Basically, the engine will start to act like it fires, then just cranks. When trying to restart it spins and I can (using my remote starter button) engage the starter then cycle the key ON/OFF several times quickly and the engine will fire (kinda' like a defibrillator). I have been able to get it started this way without an issue when this happens. I've done the "wiggle test" on everything I can find, even did the salt/pepper terminals and thought that cured it once trying to start, but not so. After running I wiggled them and the engine shut off, but couldn't replicate it.

So, now reaching out to see what I'm overlooking or not doing. I've done all of the steps several times and a few that aren't even listed with no good result, even by passing the fuel pump relay and ignition switch.
 
My 1995 Mustang GT Convertible stalled on me as I was pulling in to my local ACE hardware store. I thought it was odd, but coasted in to a parking spot and did my shopping. When I came back out to the car, it fired right up. Well, a couple minutes later I got home and was checking my mailbox. I left the car running and grabbed my mail. The car stalled again while I was at the mailbox. I tried to start it up, but this time it would just crank and crank and crank. It wouldn't start. I pushed the car in to my parking spot and there it sat for two days. I had my father come over and we were just scratching our heads for the whole time. There was a crack in the ignition coil connector, so we replaced that. Then I replaced the coil itself. I checked all the battery terminals, PIP, distributor, rotor, etc. After looking at this forum and other people's stories, I ended up trying the Ignition Control Module. That ended up being it! Thank you for all the help, guys. It was so nice to hear it fire up again after two days of haphazardly going through and checking this, replacing that, etc. I hope this can help someone else. Have a great day!
 
  • Like
Reactions: 1 user
My 1995 Mustang GT Convertible stalled on me as I was pulling in to my local ACE hardware store. I thought it was odd, but coasted in to a parking spot and did my shopping. When I came back out to the car, it fired right up. Well, a couple minutes later I got home and was checking my mailbox. I left the car running and grabbed my mail. The car stalled again while I was at the mailbox. I tried to start it up, but this time it would just crank and crank and crank. It wouldn't start. I pushed the car in to my parking spot and there it sat for two days. I had my father come over and we were just scratching our heads for the whole time. There was a crack in the ignition coil connector, so we replaced that. Then I replaced the coil itself. I checked all the battery terminals, PIP, distributor, rotor, etc. After looking at this forum and other people's stories, I ended up trying the Ignition Control Module. That ended up being it! Thank you for all the help, guys. It was so nice to hear it fire up again after two days of haphazardly going through and checking this, replacing that, etc. I hope this can help someone else. Have a great day!

Good to hear you got it running again. To be clear, you're referring to the Thin Film Ignition (TFI) module attached to the distributor?
 
  • Wow
Reactions: 1 user
This is a screen grab of what I bought at O'Reillys that ended up bringing her back to life.
 

Attachments

  • Ignition Control Module.jpeg
    Ignition Control Module.jpeg
    188 KB · Views: 57
  • Like
Reactions: 1 user
Try swapping the ignition coil with a known good one. The visual check of the spark quality can be deceiving.

If the coil swap doesn't fix the problem, remove the SPOUT and try to start the engine.

Keep in mind that the last thing you installed before the problem appeared is the first thing to suspect as the cause of the problem.
What does it mean if it starts with the spout disconnected? The pip has malfunctioned?