Crash Course In Blowers

Discussion in 'SN95 4.6L Mustang Tech' started by greyfrankenstang, Jul 8, 2013.

  1. Hey all,

    I just purchased a new (to me) 2002 Mustang GT. The reason for this thread is, as the title says, this is a crash course for me with Superchargers, as i personally have no experience with them up until now. Here's what i know the car has, per the previous owners email.
    Vortech SQ V2 Supercharger.
    High performance fuel pump
    High performance racing chip
    K&N air-filter
    Cooler spark plugs
    3:73 rear end gears vice 3:27
    Accufab oversized Plenum with 70mm throttle body
    Magnaflow Magnapack Catback exhaust system ( 2 ½ “ pipes with 3 ½ ” chrome pipes)

    So i want to run some gauges to see how much boost im running, and to keep a better eye on the engine specs when operating, but im not sure what ones i should focus on purchasing. I think im probably going to purchase the gauge cluster overlay so it'll only have 2 gauges. Any information as to what i should do to keep this thing running would be greatly appreciated(maintenance tips, etc.), as well as any information in regards to what upgrades i should look into to up boost or HP. Like, i just learned that underdrive pulleys are detrimental to boost when you have a supercharger.
    Thanks in advance to anyone who helps! :SN:
    Also, let me know if there is any more information you guys need.
  2. Do you have pics of the car, motor, etc. odd seller is so vague about what is done to the car. Personally I could name every single part that went into my blower build. Stranger yet it wouldn't have a boost gauge along with intercooler water temp for starters. The guy didn't have dyno sheets on the car? Most blown cars are dyno tuned as they all act a little different
  3. Here is a pic, let me know what else you would need.

    Attached Files:

  4. The oil tank for the intercooler is where the battery would be. And the battery has been relocated to the trunk in a secured and bolted down metal box.
  5. oh, and its Oil intercooled. I dont know what im going to do come winter time, as the Vortech website stated that the temp cant drop below 20F. Someone suggested using a lighter weight oil in winter.
  6. I have never heard of an oil cooled intercooler. Do you mean the supercharger has an oil cooler for the unit itself? That's more realistic.
  7. like i said, i dont know the first thing about superchargers. Im guessing its an oil cooler.
  8. If it is a V2, that means the supercharger is engine-oil lubricated, IIRC.

    That looks like the out-of-the-box Vortech V2 kit. Aftercooled, fuel pump included, (probably fuel injectors included), tune included, etc. Nothing at all wrong with it. Probably somewhere in the neighborhood of 350-360 rwhp.

    Better exhaust (offroad [non-catted] midpipe and/or long tube headers) and a custom dyno tune will go a long ways towards making more power. Those things should easily put you near or at 400 rwhp. A smaller supercharger pulley would easily put you over 400. Go small enough, and that unit will easily make more than enough power to scatter some rods and/or pistons. A front-mount intercooler (FMIC) would also yield some benefits, but probably not enough to justify the cost on a stock-bottom-end motor.
    trombonedemon likes this.
  9. Thank you for the information, i truly do appreciate it. As for engine monitoring, what gauges would be most helpful to get?
  10. boost gauge, wideband
  11. by wideband, you mean electrical, as opposed to mechanical, correct?
    Also, since the gauge pod im getting has 2 slots, what would be the most beneficial gauge to fill the second slot?

  12. Yeah, i dont think ill be getting a FMIC since this is only a V2 supercharger. As for the dyno, the seller said it was dyno tuned, and claimed that it puts out about 400 HP, but i think i might get a tuner from American Muscle. I would go to a dyno, but i cant seem to locate any in DE.
  13. Performance evolution is Smyrna. Talk to Matt. 302-449-3200 he tunes my car and did my axle rear end build
  14. Thank you. You have been way more than helpful. I appreciate everyones input.

  15. Did he give you a dyno sheet? If not, I doubt it's been dyno tuned. Could have been, but I doubt it.

    Most of the time, dyno tuners will offer deals if you buy a programmer and a dyno tune from them. Probably a good $100 cheaper than if you bought a programmer and dyno tune separately.

    As for the gauges, a wideband O2 sensor/gauge is definitely a necessity if you want to do it right. I run an Innovate Motorsports gauge that works perfectly. (They have other colors as well). A boost gauge is also nice.

    If you have the money, an Aeroforce Interceptor is a sweet addition. It's a scan gauge, which means you can see all kinds of parameters. Intake temps, spark timing, fuel trims, shift point, etc. AND you can still hook up a wideband sensor to that gauge. If I were doing it all over again, I'd get one of those and a boost gauge, but I understand money is an issue for lots of folks (myself included).
  16. i agree with sneaky as well and yeah it would be electrical and it always good to know your stoichiometric ratio highly recommended
  17. Hey the only thing im worried about now, is what im going to do come winter time. The Vortech website said that the temp cant drop below 20 degrees F. What options do i have, as this will be my daily driver in winter as well as summer.
  18. It has to do with the oil viscosity at lower temps and the incredible RPM's centri's run. Basically, under freezing temp, the oil is too thick to properly lubricate the SC while running higher RPMs. Unless you hold a blow-torch to the SC before starting, just let the car come up to temp before getting on it. Do not get into boost until you get to a proper temp.

    In other words, starting the car in 0 degree temps and going WOT immediately is not a good idea.
  19. So they say to not let hte car go over 2500 RPMs until after having the car running at normal operating temp for at least 5 minutes. you think this will be enough?
  20. That should work fine. You shouldn't drive the car hard until coming up to temp anyway even without a blower.