Curiousity? Feature creep? Need for more HP?

Discussion in 'SN95 4.6L Mustang Tech' started by DC-GT, Dec 4, 2003.

  1. I am looking at getting cams for my GT. I am leaning towards the Stage 2 VT cams. I have a "few" questions though... Considering my current mods...

    If I let Tim do the heads does that come with the valves and P&P? Is that extra $$?

    What else should I look at doing?

    New intake? Who's?

    Plenum? C&L? Plenum and throttle body?

    75mm MAF? Do I have to go with a particular one since I already have the BBK Cold Air Induction system? Bigger MAF?

    I am researching the prices of some of this now but some of the websites metioned in other posts seem to be having troubles loading here at work... :D

    What would you folks think the best configuration to fit between my BBK CAI and my BBK LT's? Remember I will be staying Naturally Aspirated!


  2. Maybe I should be looking at a chip and tune too? Maybe the Diablo Flip Chip?

  3. Hey Bo--

    I like the VT cams' reputation and their dyno numbers speak for themselves. The Stage II cams are going to be really lopey I think...if that's what you want (that's how my HP cams are, and I like it!), then go for it. Otherwise, people are still getting very nice numbers with the Stage I cams, which might be plenty agressive for a mostly street-driven car.

    Head work is expensive. If you get Tim (Cobra Killer) to do your heads, I think it's $1600 for the Stage II (don't bother with Stage I) P&P job. Then you figure $600 for cams and $185 for springs. And labor for pulling/reinstalling the heads. I think that would be $750-1000.

    That's a lot of money, but your car should scream. You should be over the 300rwhp with that and all the bolt-ons.
  4. I was going to do the install myself for the hardware and then take it to the shop for a tune.

    I really like a lopey engine. I am old school so it just makes me feel good to hear a lopey engine running.

    So far, it looks like about 2400 for the cams and P&P plus a tune. I am also looking at doing the monthly special at CRMotorsports for the C&L plenum and the 75mm Accufab throttle body. Hate to pass it up at this point.

    I am still looking at prices for the other stuff. Maybe it will help other folks make decisions like this too.

  5. Sounds good. You might want to consider waiting on the C&L stuff...if it were me, and I was putting that much into head work, I'd save a bit and buy a Bullitt or Fox lake intake instead. More gains on those wide-open heads, and the intakes can be P&P'ed also.

  6. I like your thinking but my wallet is whimpering already, lol. Maybe I will just hold out for a bit and see what I can afford in January.

    Still researching parts though, just in case someone else is looking into this kind of stuff too.

  7. Yeah i'd buy a bullit intake also it costs about 1400-1500 once u get the intake and install kit.Then u can make the same hp gain as the dragon or c/l plenum that only costs 200. :lol:
  8. Jeez, for not much more money you could get an ATI Procharger and get close to 125 rwhp instead of 40 or 50 or so. In the long run, it takes WAY too much money to get significant HP N/A (and of course to get N/A power equal to a power-adder you'll end up having to sacrifice low-end power) compared to a supercharger. Just my 2 cents.
  9. That's all true about the supercharger. I didn't try to analyze your criterion of staying NA, but there are a lot cheaper ways to make more power.
  10. If you make more power NA, the more power you'll make with a power adder. Or they just don't want a power adder. :shrug:
  11. I am just not sure I want to deal with the "whine" of a super charger. Even if I did go with the super charger I would still want to open up the heads and intake manifold so it could breath better. Plus if I go with the super charger, at what point do I blow holes through my block? Also if I went S/C I don't think I would go with ATI... I would probably wait for the Cobra Killer kit or maybe save a bit longer and go with the KB. Guess I have to make up my mind now before I figure out what kind of stuff to do next... Ugggg... here I thought I had a plan, lol.

  12. Ok, the kits I just looked at for a supercharger, including after cooler, 30# injectors, new fuel pumps, and new chip, run upwards of $4K. That is a big chunk of change that will put a stock gt at around 350rwhp. Then I am looking at a new rear end and clutch right away aren't I? Can the stock rear end and clutch handle that much HP?

    That is kind of scary to think about adding that much HP in such a short time, lol. :D

    No doubt it will be much faster than what I am prepared for! I think I need to sleep on it for a bit, lol.

  13. The Vortech SQ trim is really quiet. Cobra Killer can get you a kit with Steeda tune for ~$3700, worth every penny.

    You talk about spending ~4K for 350rwhp with room to grow, versus $3K for maybe 300rwhp and nowhere to go (excpt the $4K blower!).
  14. The stock clutch will wear out eventually, but if you're not dumping the clutch and/or drag racing it will still last awhile. When it dies, I'm a big fan of Spec stage 1 or 2 clutches. The rear-end will hold up just fine, but you'll probably want to get the axle tubes welded to the diff. since it's cheap to do, and gives a bit of security.

    Earlier someone said that getting hp N/A will still allow you to supercharge later. That's not untrue, but you can supercharge first (maximize the dollar/HP) and then dump your other thousands into the heads and cams if you're feeling rich. Plus, again, the supercharger will give you the bottom end grunt that you won't get N/A - at the same power levels. You'll get a lot more torque out of a S/C down low even if you did have the same peak power levels as N/A.

    But enough babbling from me!