Paint and Body Cut And Redo Or Tweak In Place?

[Cool Beans]

Faaahh!!

First, not really related but. . .I've heard these cars came +/- 1/4" from the factory? Holy crapness I had a helluva time trying to get everything perfectly lined up before I looked at some old pictures and sure as it really does dive off 3/8" toward the rear drivers side :/

To my actual question, the passenger side concave area at the lights flattened out a bit vs when I was dry fitting everything. I checked it once after I got it all tacked in and it looked good. . .drivers side looks good.

It's not much, but I'm afraid it will affect new bezels I will buy either buy warping them or not allowing them to sit flush. Can I tweak the curve in place to match new bezels I buy? Or should I cut it out and do it over? Mind you this is going to be a sweet weekend cruiser, not a show car. . .

thanks! I'll post a couple pictures tomorrow. . .

 

[horse sence]

If it is bowed in the middle of the opening i would push it back out ,cutting it and welding it back could cause warpage
A block of wood from the back of low spot and gently hit with a rubber hammer to absorb some of the blows and it should move outward easily . IS this the cut out light or the dimpled one ?

 

[Cool Beans]

Ok. I guess it would have been helpful to mention this is the tail light panel for my 68' , hehe.

First picture is the drivers side and you can see the curve is pretty evenly spaced along the edge of the molding. This side also fits the stocks bezels pretty well (as well as I can expect I guess, even before installation). The second picture is of the passenger side. You can see where the curve is shallower and just barely touching the molding. When you set the bezels in there, the sit ok at the inside most light, and gets shallower as you move to the molding. This is the crease I need to tweak. . .or cut out the whole panel and do it over?

Or, tips and trying to tweak since if it won't tweak out I need to cut it out anyways?

All of your horse sense is appreciated!

 

[horse sence]

Yes a block of wood from the inside about 1 inch wide and rest it on the over lap of the tail panel and the piece under the end cap ,gently hit against the block of wood with a hammer and watch the gap and you will see it close up .Move the block about 1 inch at a time up the tail light panel over lap and you should be able to close the gap ,i have had to do this on almost every new tail panel .It is actually the piece under the end cap that is off ,the tail panel will move with the under piece when you hit on it ,but make sure to only hit on the over lap .

 

[Cool Beans]

Will do, you make it sound easy enough! And sorry for the late response, been busy so I haven't messed with it much. The trunk corners and panel were all welded in. Is there enough give to close that gap a possible 1/4" or will that top edge and trunk corners need to be detached from the quarter panel?

Thanks!

 

[Cool Beans]

Well, I beat on those seems with a 6lb rubber mallet and it might have moved a smidge. . .there is no noticeable give when I wailed on them, like hitting a solid block. I'm going to look at it this weekend and decide what I need to cut loose. . .and if I even want to deal with it :/ It looks like the trunk corners need to come out and drill the spot welds around the top corners of the qaurter panel. . .It looks even on both sides now, I might call it a day and just drive it